Bowen Island Paint Job

[Marty Levenson]

Hold your applause...

...until she fires up and doesn't leak!

I'm happy with the colours, too. In real life the yellow is a bit more mustard than it looks on my screen (used a flash and didn't do any correcting after). I like the way the light gray makes the parts stand out in contrast.

Thanks for the encouragement! The forum really does give me confidence that the inevitable problems will get solved...with help.

Hopefully more soon,
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

studs and head

The long corner stud that goes through the therm housing is the only one I didn't remove. It was very tight, and looks to be JB welded. I figure I'm looking for trouble if I force it out, and have no reason to suspect a problem.

The manual mentions scoring the block deck with an ice pick. I assume that's to help the gasket get a better grip? The engine had hardly been run (by PO) before I removed the gasket, so it cleaned up pretty easily with a razor. Should I do more than that? What should I look for? What about the bottom face of the head (a barely used MMI).

I plan to run a tap through the stud holes today to clean rust, etc. The studs that came out had lost a few threads due to corrosion. Any tips about that? I'm not experienced with tap and die work, but gather the secret is go slow, back out frequently, use a light oil. Plan to reinstall with Permatex #2.

Hopefully head goes on with 16 new studs on Saturday.

I dreamed about top dead center last night!

Thanks,
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

more stud questions

First off, I realized I needed a COARSE 3/8 thread tap, so I used a good stud instead ...with liquid wrench on it. Most holes were easy to screw into, but the aft few were harder...more corroded. All seem good now, except the one I never removed...just leaving it alone.

Wondering if the holes need to have any oil residue cleaned out before using Permatex #2 in there? Brake cleaner on a q-tip followed by compressed air blast? I suspect I am over-thinking this, but the devil is really in the details.

Plan to place head and gasket, screw a few in dry to make sure all held aligned, and then dip stud ends in Permatex and screw em in. Better than putting in studs first?

Thanks!
Marty

[Loki9]

I put the studs in first. It's much easier to grab them when the head isn't there, and I don't see any advantage doing it the other way.

[Marty Levenson]

better plan

Thanks - studs first makes more sense: I guess I'm not over thinking this!

Marty

[jpian0923]

Studs first, yet...keep test fitting the head to make sure it slides on easily. Misaligned studs will make getting the head on (and off) a real PITA!

You might have to wack a stud or two to get them aligned. Don't be shy about it.

[Marty Levenson]

degrease holes?

Thanks for the info - I AM shy about whacking them!

Do I need to degrease the holes so Permatex will stick nicely?

-Marty

[jpian0923]

For locktite red I would degrease. For permatex #2 I would not worry about it.

I used locktite red on my studs.

[Laker]

De-greasing can't hurt regardless of the bedding product used. Whacking the studs - You're a better man than I , Gunga Din.

[Marty Levenson]

stud holes + Permatex

Many thanks for the replies!

Next I am wondering about keeping the Permatex from dripping into the waterjacket. Beyond using as little as possible, I thought about having the tube, engine and studs on the cool side, so its less drippy. Say 50-55 ºF? Also - let dry a bit longer before installing. Can I do anything else?

Planning on Permatex #2 - I think that's the least runny option? Leaning toward Permatex over Locktite red as Perm also seems more likely to prevent leaks. If head is torqued up tight, I see the chance of it coming loose as minimal.

-Marty

[sastanley]

marty - yes #2 is the thickest. It should not drip. Load up the studs and let them sit for an hour before installation???

Have you considered studs over bolts in the water jacket side plate? When I installed them it really seemed easier to torque the studs down to stop the leaks without worrying about stripping the threads in the block.. I made my own SS studs by cutting long bolts & JB Welded them into the block. I then used brass washers & nuts so that if anything corrodes away it is the easy to replace nuts & washers and not the stud in the side plate. After hearing the horror stories of bolts spinning off in that area (in fact the P.O. had already upsized the alternator bracket bolt) I decided studs were the way to go. Been happy so far.

By the way - (since it is hard to find anything else wrong with the engine) you could probably spend a little more time cleaning up the water pump...I still see a little bit of green on the plate.. One thing I did not do was clear lacquer/paint/clear coat/whatever my bronze/brass parts. My pump is mostly green again.

Have

[Marty Levenson]

studs and green pumps

Have you considered studs over bolts in the water jacket side plate? When I installed them it really seemed easier to torque the studs down to stop the leaks without worrying about stripping the threads in the block.. I made my own SS studs by cutting long bolts & JB Welded them into the block. I then used brass washers & nuts so that if anything corrodes away it is the easy to replace nuts & washers and not the stud in the side plate. After hearing the horror stories of bolts spinning off in that area (in fact the P.O. had already upsized the alternator bracket bolt) I decided studs were the way to go. Been happy so far.

By the way - (since it is hard to find anything else wrong with the engine) you could probably spend a little more time cleaning up the water pump...I still see a little bit of green on the plate.. One thing I did not do was clear lacquer/paint/clear coat/whatever my bronze/brass parts. My pump is mostly green again.

Have

Appreciate the water jacket idea. Never had a problem on our old A4, so I think I'll wait and see if the bolts work. If not I'll try the studs for sure.

Who said I'm done cleaning the pump? Actually, I don't mind brass or bronze oxidized: I like the way they look...won't be coating mine either.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

head install questions

1. The 13 "normal" studs I have are just under 2 3/4" long. The coarse thread section is 3/4" long. When screwed tightly into the block, the ones I can monitor through the water jacket side plate protrude about two threads. Can the protrusion be a problem in any of the other passages or galleys? Should all be tightly installed anyway? Do I have the wrong size stud? Should I reuse the old studs instead - the threads are okay, but they are slightly shortened by corrosion.

2. The two studs that are in front of the coil strap don't quite go down all the way: about two threads showing. They seem snug and solid. Is that a problem? Maybe just reuse older, shorter studs in these two holes?

3. Tried "dry fitting" the head with about 10 studs screwed (not glued) in. PIAT! I'm guessing that installing with all 17 studs glued in is going to be not fun. Wondering if oiling the studs before installing the head will help. Also wondering if temperature matters: I can have the room anywhere from 40 º to 70º ?

Any help greatly appreciated!
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

Follow up head stud question

I am getting the correct new studs, but am left with a question. Wondering why the stud needs to be seated against the block? Don't the threads hold the upward pull of the stud....seating and permatex being about sealing the hole around the stud? All of my block's threads were still meshed with stud threads when it was reinstalled 1/4" higher. Don't see how that seating adds strength with an upward pull? I can see how seating the stud reduces any wobble BEFORE it is torqued.

Thanks,
Marty

[Marty Levenson]

One stuck stud

I have left one stud (the corner long one at the therm housing) as it doesn't want to come out. All others came out fairly easily. Now that I am going to all grade 8 studs from Moyer, wondering if I should pull it. I'm guessing its JB welded, or something similar....maybe just loctite? Any way to tell? Should I leave well enough alone? Could be a can of worms. Pictures below....though it doesn't reveal much to me.

Thanks!
Marty