I have a atomic 4 with regular transmission. Motor has a knock. So got a nother motor but it has a v drive . My question is can I use the shaf of the old transmission to go to straight drive? If that makes any sense to anybody.
V drive to straight drive
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No, the V-drive engine has a special splined tailshaft designed to fit into the V-drive itself. If your old reversing gear assembly is still good, the easiest thing is to swap the whole assembly. This way you get the correct tailshaft. Replacing just a tailshaft is a much harder job.@(^.^)@ Ed
1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
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Ed has it right. I've done this job - not hard. Just keep all the rotating parts of the transmission together. Take your direct drive transmission and transplant it complete into the replacement engine.
You'll have to get the top off the transmission. In addition to the bolts, there are a pair of dowel pins to the block - helps a lot to drive these out then replace them later. Keep the transmission cover mated to the block - just swap the internals.
While in there, I recommend you install Moyer's stainless shifter shaft (no more corrosion of that piece!).
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Removal of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).
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Originally posted by Al Schober View PostRemoval of the reversing gear is covered in the Moyer Manual under Major Overhaul - Part 3, steps 1 thru 4. Do this removal for both engines. You'll end up with two housings and two rotating assemblies (plus a bunch of misc. parts).
The rotating stuff from the old V-drive engine will get installed into the new engine. The new engine gets it's original housing - don't switch housings.
Reassembly is covered in Major Overhaul - Part 6. Read 'General' and steps 3 thru 8 (don't skip over IMPORTANT NOTE.
If a gasket gets damaged, you'll need a bit of extra sealant (permatex 2a).
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Originally posted by Al Schober View PostYep! Replacing the entire rotating assembly is the easiest way I've found to do that job.
Need I say again, don't swap the housings. Things won't line up.
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Originally posted by tenders View PostIf I couldn't see the bits of gunk around the perimeter of the casing, I'd say that mechanism looks like it rolled out of the factory last month.
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The oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.
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Originally posted by tenders View PostThe oil pan is ridiculously thick and not prone to failure. I was terrified when I bought my boat in 1991 that the flakes/sheets of rust that were pulling off from the bottom of the pan would go right through. In fact this was a major reason for getting the engine rebuilt in 1993. Ha ha ha! The rust barely marked the bottom of the pan, and, it turns out, used replacement pans are very easy to find in part because they don't fail.
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