Cabin fumes

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  • Marty Levenson
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2004
    • 679

    #46
    sounds like a plan

    Thanks for the clarification. I'll glue the pipe in with JB weld and attach the Indigo as it was in our old A4. Worked great there: cut fumes by 90%.

    This rebuilt I bought is quite a hodge podge. Early 60's transmission, late 70's block, new MM head and manifold, and this prehistoric vent (not sure what that plate is called).

    Came with the sheet metal flywheel cover, which is a different bolt pattern than our cast iron flywheel on the old A4. Is there a cast iron one that would fit? I'm just not warming up to the sheet metal version: seems flimsy.

    Thanks all,
    Marty
    Marty
    1967 Tartan 27
    Bowen Island, BC

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    • keelcooler
      Senior Member
      • Oct 2008
      • 282

      #47
      The early valve spring panel cover plates were cast and are preferred because they did not warp and leak. If you look close at Marty’s photo you can see the cotter pin attachment hole.

      We should not confuse Dave further and tell him about the oil main going to the plate. That’s right the early models had a valve spring oil shower! You can plug that main pressure line and not blow out your pan or launch your blower into the bridge deck.

      The cast iron fly wheel covers will not fit the sheet metal fronts.

      Comment

      • tcrane29664
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2012
        • 37

        #48
        Originally posted by SEMIJim View Post
        Look for Product No. - KTAS_05_90 on this page. I have mine led out to just behind the companionway steps that come off for engine space access. Works like a champ .

        Suggestion: In the future, Rich, please start a new thread, rather than tacking your question(s) onto an existing thread about a different issue.

        Jim
        any chance you could post a pic of yours installed? was thinking about getting this, but not sure how the whole thing is supposed to work...and where does one get the handpump that works with it?

        thanks in advance!

        Tim
        rebuilt A4 lovingly cradled inside the belly of a 77 Columbia 8.7

        Comment

        • Mo
          Afourian MVP
          • Jun 2007
          • 4468

          #49
          Check timing.

          Check timing???
          Mo

          "Odyssey"
          1976 C&C 30 MKI

          The pessimist complains about the wind.
          The optimist expects it to change.
          The realist adjusts the sails.
          ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

          Comment

          • Carl-T705
            • Jul 2011
            • 251

            #50
            Keelstep , Thanks for listing the replacement part numbers for the PCV

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            • liveaboardL
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2014
              • 15

              #51
              Can you make your own cap vent?

              My cabin stinks very bad for many hours after running the engine & I could not locate the source, but I'd like to try rigging the vented oil cap to direct the fumes outside. Anyone see any problem with just putting a ziplock bag over the vented oil cap & duct-taping a seal and poking a hole in it & running some hose out the cabin hatch while under way? It aught to get the job done, right? How hot does that oil cap get?

              Comment

              • scottr
                Frequent Contributor
                • Sep 2013
                • 9

                #52
                My solution

                Check out post 144 here:


                (Assuming the link works.)

                In case the link doesn't work, the idea is to remove the slash tube that goes to the flame arrester and replace it with heater hose and slide the other end into the blower intake hose. The fumes are then exhausted by the blower. It worked great for me, the cabin smell is gone.

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