#1
IP: 99.254.198.34
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Cooling system winterizing
I was looking at the flow diagram on the late model A4 I have a raw water cooled engine. Over last several years I have removed the thermostat before sucking in the pink juice. Other A4 chum leaves his in. I may not understand flow pattern with Tstat closed vs open but thought I’d have more effective circulation of antifreeze with Tstat removed.
So help me understand flow with Tstat closed vs open and why or why not to remove Tstat during winterizing. Thank you forum!!! Jim 1978 C&C 34 |
#2
IP: 69.250.111.245
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If you are sucking in pink stuff with the engine cold, the t-stat will be closed and limit the amount of pink stuff getting past the t-stat and into the block. However, if you do not have any restrictions/valve on the bypass, that will allow some mixing of the pink stuff in with the raw water in the block even if the t-stat is closed, but, it will be diluted as compared to removing the t-stat, which should give a more thorough flooding of the block.
My $0.02. ![]()
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
Sam (10-19-2022) |
#3
IP: 76.176.224.167
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The MMI recommendations for winterizing* mention removing the thermostat and pinching the bypass hose closed to be certain antifreeze gets into the block thoroughly.
*The recommendations are found in the General Maintenance forum category, "Winterizing your Atomic 4" sticky thread, post #1. The note I'm referring to is found under "Cooling System", the Note following Step 2.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Jim.B.MacK (10-23-2022), sastanley (10-17-2022) |
#4
IP: 99.254.198.34
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Quote:
Thanks!
__________________
Well loved 1978 C&C 34! |
#5
IP: 76.176.224.167
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No. It's the hose between the sideplate Tee (behind and slightly above the starter) that turns up to the thermostat housing.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Jim.B.MacK (10-23-2022) |
#6
IP: 99.254.198.34
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Quote:
Cheers Jim
__________________
Well loved 1978 C&C 34! |
#7
IP: 69.250.111.245
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Yes, closing the ball valve is the same as pinching the hose.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() Last edited by sastanley; 10-17-2022 at 10:16 PM. |
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Jim.B.MacK (10-23-2022) |
#8
IP: 64.246.99.67
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Best to drain the water out of the block first before antifreeze. On my engine ( and I think most engines) there is a capped off tube just behind the alternator belt. I connect a piece of plastic tubing to this tube and blow in it periodically to allow all the water to get past rust and other particles that tend to block off the flow. I keep draining until I hear gurgling during a blow. I then suck in a gallon or so of antifreeze (via the hose that connects to the cooling through hull) so that it pushes out the water in the water lift muffler and replaces any water in low points of the exhaust hose. I kill the engine by pouring Marvel Mystery Oil into the flame arrestor on the carb just before I get to the bottom of the antifreeze bottle.
This procedure assures that only full strength antifreeze is in the block and not diluted antifreeze.
__________________
Jim Zeller 1982 Catalina 30 Kelleys Island, Ohio |
The Following User Says Thank You to zellerj For This Useful Post: | ||
Jim.B.MacK (10-23-2022) |
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