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Old 05-27-2013, 09:27 AM
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Question Water Cooled Stuffing Box

Does anyone have any experience with this type of box or know where they can be purchased?

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:32 AM
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PSS makes a dripless shaft seal which is similar.

HTH.

Bill
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:36 AM
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In my recent search for a stuffing box, I came across this type:

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/p...aft-seals-inch

Not exactly the same as pictured, but water cooled.

James
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:49 AM
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I'm not especially interested in the dripless feature; it's the water cooling that I'm looking for. Because of the long days of constant running on the (silty) ICW, water cooling/cleaning makes sense for me.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:52 AM
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I like the way you're thinking Hanley, you know why.

That does not look like a stuffing box to me. I see no way to install packing nor any way to adjust the packing tightness. Perhaps what's pictured is in fact a seal that requires a means of burping trapped air (typical of seal systems).
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:00 AM
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Yes, the one I posted is a "dripless" unit, same as the link posted. I have always been suspicious of those things. I like the old fashioned "knuckle busting twist 'em" style packing gland, but I want water cooling. I have ruled out boring into the sternpost and shaft log so I'm looking for the water cooled unit with standard packing.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:02 AM
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How much room do you have between the current stuffing box and the engine coupler?
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:14 AM
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Hanley, That type of stuffing box is often used in high speed applications but would certainly do the job for our A4's. Try the stuffing box section of the online catalog at "glenwoodmarine.net."
Tom
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
How much room do you have between the current stuffing box and the engine coupler?
I think 4 to 5 inches.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:28 AM
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Take a look at McMaster-Carr item #53605K44 or whatever size is suitable. It may be a little long but could be shortened. With it you could make your own water injection port and still use the current stuffing box. The downside is another set of hose connections. Benefit vs. liability trade off as usual.

I have to say I'm not a fan of seals of any sort in a gritty silty environment, don't think you are either.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Take a look at McMaster-Carr item #53605K44 or whatever size is suitable. It may be a little long but could be shortened. With it you could make your own water injection port and still use the current stuffing box. The downside is another set of hose connections. Benefit vs. liability trade off as usual.

I have to say I'm not a fan of seals of any sort in a gritty silty environment, don't think you are either.
I had a look at that but actually I already have that option. What do you think?

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:30 AM
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I'm liking it. You may have to rebore (hone, trim) the I.D. after the adapter is installed to insure shaft clearance but knowing you I'd bet you're on top of it anyway.

I've said it before, this is a great improvement to full keel installations in the deadwood and rarely seen.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:32 AM
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I dont see an advantage here. i would think that there is always water at the packing, even at hull speed. So what would be the advantage of having the added fitting?

I could see if it was high speed, and the water was not getting to the stuffing box, and it was running hot. Is it running hot?

Why do you want the "added water"?
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
I dont see an advantage here. i would think that there is always water at the packing, even at hull speed. So what would be the advantage of having the added fitting?

I could see if it was high speed, and the water was not getting to the stuffing box, and it was running hot. Is it running hot?

Why do you want the "added water"?
You or me Hanley? It's your thread so I'll defer to you.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I'm liking it. You may have to rebore (hone, trim) the I.D. after the adapter is installed to insure shaft clearance but knowing you I'd bet you're on top of it anyway.

I've said it before, this is a great improvement to full keel installations in the deadwood and rarely seen.
As you can see, this is an old piece of bronze (1964?). Probably 1/4" thick. I believe I will go with this since I have a drill press and should be able to get a good straight hole. My only concern is that the brass fitting will be of much lower nobility and will have to be watched. I'll get back with more pics of the job.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
I dont see an advantage here. i would think that there is always water at the packing, even at hull speed. So what would be the advantage of having the added fitting?

I could see if it was high speed, and the water was not getting to the stuffing box, and it was running hot. Is it running hot?

Why do you want the "added water"?
It isn't just about heat; it's also about flushing accumulated silt and grit out thru the cutless.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:44 AM
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I don't think there's a big concern over nobility. As far as I know, typical stuffing boxes are cast in garden variety bronze rather than silicon bronze so it and yellow brass should not be that far apart. Keep up on the zincs.
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Old 05-27-2013, 03:41 PM
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...but if you're worried about that, use a surfboard. 1/8" NPT barb ready for cooling hose (may incorporate some kind of shutoff). Inside was honed with ordinary brake wheel cylinder tool. Note what I can get away with when the wife is off island.

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I don't think there's a big concern over nobility. As far as I know, typical stuffing boxes are cast in garden variety bronze rather than silicon bronze so it and yellow brass should not be that far apart. Keep up on the zincs.
All the "bronze" in my Buck Algonquin stuffing box turned a very heavy green after the first year. So I agree with Neil...they seem to be the best supplier of these types of units but they still turn...so I don't think tapping something into the BA unit is any real issue.

Neil turned me on to Noalox...I've used it extensively, and just today I had some with me at the top of my friend's stick when installing a new anchor light...I used it on both the ss screws into the alum mast, and on the ss screws into copper Aqua Signal fittings. I've had good luck with it so far.

Incidentally, this is the buddy that dives on my boat...he dives to clean the prop...I go up the stick for him. good trade-off!

Hanley, someone in this thread mentioned high speed applications. I have friends with 'muscle boats'. I'd be happy to inquire if you'd like me to do so.
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Last edited by sastanley; 05-27-2013 at 11:09 PM. Reason: high speed muscle boats
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:57 AM
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My opinion is the benefit of this modification is to the cutless bearing. It works best with water flow rather than simple immersion in terms of temperature and longevity. Those of us with the bearing in a strut have flow with boat motion but those with full keels and the bearing in the deadwood have virtually no flow beyond the microscopic stuffing box drip.

Hanley's installation will provide significant flow through the bearing with modestly pressurized raw water introduced forward of the bearing. He'll have better bearing flow than us strut guys.
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:57 PM
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Mine is not a sailboat, but my stern bearning- cutless holder has 2 ears-slots-scoops facing forward that provide water flow into the shaft area, and when underway pressurize both the cutless and the stuffing box.should be somewhat easy to mod a keel to acheive that if there is no bolt on stern bearing. Unless this is considered too much drag in the sailing condition.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ball Racing View Post
Mine is not a sailboat, but my stern bearning- cutless holder has 2 ears-slots-scoops facing forward that provide water flow into the shaft area, and when underway pressurize both the cutless and the stuffing box.should be somewhat easy to mod a keel to acheive that if there is no bolt on stern bearing. Unless this is considered too much drag in the sailing condition.
Could you post a picture of that arrangement?
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:55 PM
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Realizing I had made another hole in the boat I thought it prudent to add a shutoff valve. This installation carries the same risk as a below water line cockpit scupper. Even so, the supply hose will rise to the underside of the cockpit deck (about 4 to 5 inches above the water line) before running horizontally to the raw water injection point.

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:51 PM
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In addition, the anti siphon valve is now critical.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
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In addition, the anti siphon valve is now critical.
This is where it gets interesting. I have never had an anti syphon valve on Destiny even though I inject to the hot section right at the water line. One of my protocols is closing the raw water intake thru hull [B][I]every time the engine is shut down.[I][B]. That said, I have occasionally left it open at a fuel dock and observed no problems. I believe this is because the raw water supply hose rises above the water line before going to the injection fitting thus creating an air space as the residual water drains to the water lift at engine shut down. For syphoning to take place there must be continuous liquid in a line which opens up below the water line. I would entertain comments/criticism on this "line" of thinking.
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