Originally posted by sastanley
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Destiny gets new cutlass & ???
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Unexpected Winter Surprise
Didn't expect to see a cutlass discuss on A4 site but glad it's here.
I just fired up my C&C27 after its long winter's nap. A new surprise that wasnt there in the Fall: A lot of screaching coming from Cutlass at start up. but appears to go away when I give it more RPMs.
I really, really don't want to deal with this until next winter. Any advice here if i will do some permanent damage if i procrastinate? what is worse case? score the shaft? does it actually help to be in water?
thanksSteve
Etobicoke YC, C&C27
A4 #204381, 1980
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Originally posted by hanleyclifford View PostThe odd thing about this job (so far) is that the cutlass bearing only showed about 1/16" to maybe 1/8" slop on the shaft. e ICW.
As you discovered lack of water lubrication will make it squeal and as mentioned will lead to wear on the cutless\shaft.
TRUE GRIT
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In gear
Originally posted by Ball Racing View PostYou are running it in gear on the hard?
I would'nt leave it in gear long , if at all, if no water is available to lubricate the cutlass.Steve
Etobicoke YC, C&C27
A4 #204381, 1980
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Originally posted by Whippet View PostDidn't expect to see a cutlass discuss on A4 site but glad it's here.
I just fired up my C&C27 after its long winter's nap. A new surprise that wasnt there in the Fall: A lot of screaching coming from Cutlass at start up. but appears to go away when I give it more RPMs.
I really, really don't want to deal with this until next winter. Any advice here if i will do some permanent damage if i procrastinate? what is worse case? score the shaft? does it actually help to be in water?
thanks
A dry cutlass will screech...just don;t make a long run on it on the hard. If you grab the prop and there is just a tad movement it should be good...there generally is some play or it would be binding. I had a machinist check mine and he just gave it a shake and showed me what it good. We walked to a couple of boats to find a "bad" one but there were none that needed repair. I have moved a bad one in the past and there was significant play when shook...much like a wheel bearing gone almost to the point of crystallizing...that's allot of movement. Note that some play is OK and normal...sloppy is not good. I haven't had to touch mine in the 6 years that I've had the boat. Mine screeches too if I don't put the hose to it prior to start up....the cutless is likely fine.
[YOUTUBE]aoihuq_5sW0[/YOUTUBE]
If there is an experienced sailor around where the boat is have him give it a shake. They will rattle and bang when the boat is in the water when they are on the way out. If you give it a shot of water with a hose the screech will go away. Can spray something "thin filmed" oil based in there as well...ie WD40 or other lubrication spray. Running in gear a minute, check your shaft for a wobble...once lubricated it will sound like the above video.
Note: If you put an anode on the shaft as I did ensure to lock the threads with lock-tight. As the zinc corrodes the torque on the bolts is reduced and they work their way free....FYILast edited by Mo; 05-01-2013, 06:46 PM.Mo
"Odyssey"
1976 C&C 30 MKI
The pessimist complains about the wind.
The optimist expects it to change.
The realist adjusts the sails.
...Sir William Arthur Ward.
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shaft spin on the hard
Thanks Mo
I appreciate the advice about giving it shot of thin lube or at least water.
My shifter is on the pedestal and i think these are know to have a small "neutral" range so why i am getting some turning.
PS i am using your Spring check-list to get ready for launch. You are a gem.Steve
Etobicoke YC, C&C27
A4 #204381, 1980
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Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View PostThe sort of acid test for the cutless (is it cutless or cutlass?) bearing is lateral movement of the shaft in the bearing. No lateral movement is good. Hanley is implying that a little movement is OK???? - I guess anyway. He can comment on this.
As you discovered lack of water lubrication will make it squeal and as mentioned will lead to wear on the cutless\shaft.
TRUE GRIT
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I just block from the prop to the boat, to stop rotation, when running dry. Works on my boat anyway.
I do usually have the shaft disconnected anyway, just for alignment checks. And check it again when in the water.
Hanley, the ICW ate up a new cutlass on my trip south. 1000 miles and it was shot.
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Originally posted by romantic comedy View PostI just block from the prop to the boat, to stop rotation, when running dry. Works on my boat anyway.
I do usually have the shaft disconnected anyway, just for alignment checks. And check it again when in the water.
Hanley, the ICW ate up a new cutlass on my trip south. 1000 miles and it was shot.
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Odd tools
You never know when some useless piece of hardware store junk will become useful. A 6' bath curtain rod constructed of the cheapest, lightest but straightest brass (probably by child labor in Bangladesh) has become my first line engine alignment rod. The cutless is new and the distance from it to the engine is about half the length of the shower rod which is a 1" perfect fit in the cutless. By runing it in and observing where it lands on the engine output coupling, crude initial positioning of the "dog" can be made.Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016, 08:32 PM.
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