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  #51   IP: 192.186.122.174
Old 02-23-2021, 09:56 AM
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Getting the shop to drill and tap the 3/4" NPT on the transmission case. The description on the tech tip is 5.6" from the rear face of aft housing - would that be parallel to the oil pan face or parallel to the cover plate for the transmission?

Any one have a sketch from face on that I can share with the shop?

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NB: In case any on is confused from earlier today- I edited out a pic and question asked due to them being out in left field.
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Last edited by GregH; 02-23-2021 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 02-23-2021, 11:53 AM
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Hello Greg.

Here is a link to a file with a photo and measurements of an A4 that may be helpful:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wBU...ew?usp=sharing

I've marked the known distance from the centers of the mounting holes and extrapolated what the "5.6" appears to refer to. Others who have made this modification hopefully will correct me if I'm wrong.

Best regards,

jack.
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Old 03-31-2021, 09:48 AM
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Alrighty, getting my block back from the shop in 2 weeks!

I was informed today (sorry no pic yet) that when they were decking (is that the right term?) the block, they discovered a small crack on either side of a water jacket flow hole. They did the stitching of it and say it will be fine. I only came across this stitching thing about a month ago on here. This stitching will prevent any water seeping through the crack?

Though we don't use sealant with the head gasket, should I spread some along the length of the crack anyways?
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Last edited by GregH; 03-31-2021 at 09:55 AM. Reason: speeling :)
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Old 03-31-2021, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
Alrighty, getting my block back from the shop in 2 weeks!

I was informed today (sorry no pic yet) that when they were decking (is that the right term?) the block, they discovered a small crack on either side of a water jacket flow hole. They did the stitching of it and say it will be fine. I only came across this stitching thing about a month ago on here. This stitching will prevent any water seeping through the crack?

Though we don't use sealant with the head gasket, should I spread some along the length of the crack anyways?
if it is the stitching that was discussed a couples times on other threads in the past 2 years, there is in fact no more crack: they basically drill the whole crack out and fill the holes with these "special screws". Supposed to be leak-proof...

See previous thread with discussion on technique on Launchpad McQ engine
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...itching&page=4

amazing video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk
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Old 03-31-2021, 11:42 AM
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Those cracks at the water passages are common on flat head engines. When I discovered those on my engine, the machine shop didn't miss a beat with lively commentary, "Those cracks are superficial, don't worry about it since you are gonna use sealant on the studs, unless you are dumb... and you don't *look* dumb."

... but the best quote was "If this was a Ford flathead, those types of cracks have a factory part number".
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Old 03-31-2021, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronstory View Post
Those cracks at the water passages are common on flat head engines. When I discovered those on my engine, the machine shop didn't miss a beat with lively commentary, "Those cracks are superficial, don't worry about it since you are gonna use sealant on the studs, unless you are dumb... and you don't *look* dumb."

... but the best quote was "If this was a Ford flathead, those types of cracks have a factory part number".
HA!

Those are great soundbites!
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Old 03-31-2021, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surcouf View Post
if it is the stitching that was discussed a couples times on other threads in the past 2 years, there is in fact no more crack: they basically drill the whole crack out and fill the holes with these "special screws". Supposed to be leak-proof...

See previous thread with discussion on technique on Launchpad McQ engine
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...itching&page=4

amazing video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk
Yep, those are the discussions I was referring to. Always learnin!
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:42 PM
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Installing the new pistons today and keeping things as aligned possible. When the manual says that once all 4 pistons are installed, though difficult, one should be able to hand crank them.

Just how difficult is difficult? And is the manual also meaning cranking with the tool on the flywheel?
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Old 05-23-2021, 08:48 PM
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Greg--

You should be able to grab the crank and rotate the assembly by hand. There will be resistance getting it moving but one it's moving it should feel smooth.

Just grab one the connecting rod journals and give it spin.
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  #60   IP: 192.186.122.174
Old 10-27-2021, 09:55 AM
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The rebuild has been going on bit here bit there.. you know - life. That ol thing.

Put the head and the thermostat cover back on last evening. Went to start the initial snugging down of the nuts and discovered that my socket won't fit over the nuts on the thermostat cover due to not enough space between nut and cover!

Are there thinner walled sockets? or how am I able to properly torque these two nuts down?
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Old 10-27-2021, 04:21 PM
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Hello Greg.

MMI has the ‘small’ nuts listed below in its catalog; these might allow you to use the socket you already have. A thin wall socket is another option.

——-

Head nut (small), 3/8″ by 9/16″

SKU: OBLK_07_187.
$0.50

Head nut – 3/8 by 9/16 hex head fine thread, used for thermostat housing studs.
Sold individually
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GregH (10-27-2021)
  #62   IP: 192.186.122.174
Old 10-27-2021, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcwright View Post
Hello Greg.

MMI has the ‘small’ nuts listed below in its catalog; these might allow you to use the socket you already have. A thin wall socket is another option.

——-

Head nut (small), 3/8″ by 9/16″

SKU: OBLK_07_187.
$0.50

Head nut – 3/8 by 9/16 hex head fine thread, used for thermostat housing studs.
Sold individually

Thanks. I'll dig around the bits n bobs I have to see if I have a smaller nut from other engines.
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Old 10-27-2021, 09:21 PM
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If you don’t have any luck finding the nuts you need, another option would be to sacrifice an old socket and grind it down to make your own thinwall.

I hope the rest of your overhaul goes well.

Jack.
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Old 10-27-2021, 11:13 PM
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You could go old school and use an open end wrench. You just need enough torque to keep it from leaking fluid.
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Old 10-27-2021, 11:25 PM
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Socket head cap screws will solve your problem.
Attached Images
 
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  #66   IP: 68.99.97.14
Old 10-29-2021, 05:33 PM
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Get the small nuts or sacrifice a socket by grinding it down to fit. The thermostat housing studs are head studs just like all of the others except a little longer. Using a socket head capscrew is like using a hex head bolt in lieu of a head stud - a no no. The design of the head stud is such that the thread within the block is a coarse thread and the thread on the other end where the nut goes is a fine thread. With such a design, you seat the stud in the block, then you torque up the head using the fine threads and thus avoid putting any rotational stress on the somewhat delicate threads in the block.

Stick with head studs!

Last edited by indigo; 10-29-2021 at 11:34 PM.
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  #67   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 10-29-2021, 09:27 PM
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The instructor of the Perkins Diesel class I took many years ago did not agree:
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...ad.php?p=82367
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Old 10-30-2021, 12:16 AM
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I do not get your point.

I concur that you get greater vertical force from a fine thread stud than from a coarse thread stud for the same amount of torque applied to the nut.

The issue that one often encounters when torquing an A4 head is that of a stud pulling the threads out of the block. The threads in the block are typically foreshortened by corrosion on the water passage side and are thus more susceptible to damage via the torquing process using a bolt as opposed to a stud. The issue at hand is that of torquing up a true bolt in the block as opposed to torquing up a nut on a stud already seated in the block.

The more gentle you can be with the block threads, the more likely you are to get a well torqued head gasket that does not leak.

Stick with the studs!
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Old 10-30-2021, 12:27 AM
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My point was according to the Perkins instructor as well as the Perkins 4-107/4-108 manual, Perkins did not put such importance on the coarse block thread - fine top thread of their studs. Their later model 4-108 (newer and therefore improved? I dunno) had coarse threads at both ends of the head studs.

I'm not advocating one or the other, just relaying from a personal experience that an engine manufacturer had different thoughts on head studs than what was presented here.
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Old 10-30-2021, 12:42 PM
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The torque values between fine and coarse threads is far different for the same clamping pressure.

A stud with coarse or fine threads at "BOTH" ends can easily be swapped out for a bolt but not recommended.

Most stud applications are of a course thread in the block and a fine thread for the torqueing. The clamping pressure is greater for a given torque value than the "same" torque value on a course thread due to the greater leverage of the finer thread.

I have seen a few heads come loose because they torqued the coarse bolt at the same torque value as the fine threaded end they replaced by using a coarse bolt loosing valuable CLAMPING pressure.

Dave Neptune
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Old 11-01-2021, 08:46 PM
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I found the narrow nuts from the donor engine and used them. All the head nuts are currently sitting at 20ftlbs since I have to remove the thermostat housing at some point soon to paint and add hose fittings.


About the valve cover gasket, the instructions says to use sealer on both sides due to the late model cover potentially not sitting well. I have the valves/lifters adjusted to spec but thinking I will most likely have to get in there to tweak things once in tune-up mode. Will it be ok to only use sealer on the cover side of the gasket for now?
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:58 PM
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Greg, There is not a lot of oil in that area splashing around, I think it is fine to seal the gasket to one side for now, and then you can easily pull the cover and adjust the valves.
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Old 11-03-2021, 05:28 PM
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making some progress...

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See I am using the manual!

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test fit then removing to work on the valve cover.
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Old 11-03-2021, 05:33 PM
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Love that Permatex! (it gets everywhere! )

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More than enough for some squeeze out.
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Old 11-04-2021, 11:07 PM
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Can you post a picture of the "stitching job"?
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