#1
IP: 174.89.8.43
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Impromptu Overhaul
After a busy start to the fall with some home renovations, it's time to get the engine stripped down and to the block shop for testing and measuring. This is the engjne fhat came with the boat and had a cracked oil pan. The used one in the boat currently I improperly winterized and it cracked just above the water jacket access plate. I'll be using the oil pan from that one on this rebuild.
The Moyer manual has been very helpful and I am learning a lot about engine parts! Of course the first bolt to shear off is the hardest to take. One of the accessory drive bolts. Had two more shear on the water jacket cover. Planning on putting studs in for the rebuild. How does one access the crank journal nuts under the oil filter? I can't fit a socket for a breaker bar in there and the spanner isn't long enough.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (04-01-2021) |
#2
IP: 32.211.28.40
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That oil screen (not really a filter, it only keeps out the lumps) is on 1/8" NPT fittings. Unscrew it and take it off.
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#3
IP: 192.186.122.174
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The screen portion itself unscrews?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#4
IP: 100.40.58.241
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Greg,
Here is a page from the A4 parts catalog showing the oil screen and how it is attached. Avoid the mistake I made of reaching for a 'bigger hammer' for this job. I broke the street elbow where it meets the main bearing cap. jack. |
#5
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Quote:
Do you know why there is a spring?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#6
IP: 32.211.28.40
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The screen itself is like a sock over an internal frame. The pipe threads are in the internal frame. The spring (I think there's a washer too) holds the sock against the frame and sorta makes a seal.
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GregH (10-19-2020) |
#7
IP: 100.40.58.241
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I was flying blind when I removed the oil screen assembly. I didn't have the Moyer manual or the parts catalog at that point. Mainly I was determined to reduce the weight of the engine so I could get it out of the boat, and I wanted to get at the crankshaft.
I've attached a photo of parts #17 & #18 in the earlier diagram. I *think* I was trying to rotate/unscrew the oil screen & frame assembly where it is attached to the nipple. In the process I applied too much force on the street elbow and sheared it off where it meets the main bearing cap (see top left of the photo). IIRC, the spring you ask about presses the oil screen against the frame (#14). Hope this helps. Jack. |
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TimBSmith (11-04-2020) |
#8
IP: 174.89.8.43
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The screen and fixture unscrewed with no fuss or persuasion. Thanks folks !
Now... took the idler gear off easily enough but how does one remove the post it's on ? Does this require the stud removing tool?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#9
IP: 100.40.58.241
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Check out the tool Moyer made for this (description from catalog is below). Also note the warning about pounding the spindle out.
J. Idler gear spindle puller This tool is used to pull the idler gear spindle from the block without having to pound the spindle out from behind and risk breaking the block casting. Be sure to remove both of the Ľ-20 Allen-headed set screws from below the spindle before attempting to pull the spindle. |
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GregH (10-20-2020) |
#10
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Quote:
it's always a nice chat with Ken!
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 10-20-2020 at 02:58 PM. Reason: speeling |
#11
IP: 174.89.8.43
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Quote:
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#12
IP: 100.40.58.241
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In your second photo, did you check in the hole directly "above" the spindle? Has this engine been rebuilt before?
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#13
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Quote:
I'll try and have another look at the old parts manual as well to see if the helps. The exploded diagram for this spindle and gear don't show any set screws itself. No idea if this engine has ever been rebuilt but if it was they totally missed the valves or poorly ran the engine - they have over an 1/8" of carbon buildup under the heads!
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#14
IP: 100.40.58.241
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Hello again Greg.
Yes, I was referring to the smaller hole, not the one for the stud. I also checked the parts manual last night. I wasn't able to find the set screws either on the page that shows the spindle or anywhere else. This reminds me of a much earlier post by Don Moyer where he describes the set screws as a 'booby trap'. The only other suggestions that come to mind are to get plenty of light down that hole and if necessary clean it out. Best of luck. J. |
#15
IP: 75.145.5.222
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Jack:
I couldn't find them either. I did find a part number, but they didn't appear in the exploded view. The description in the online catalog says this: Quote:
Bill Last edited by W2ET; 10-21-2020 at 10:17 AM. |
#16
IP: 100.36.65.17
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Quote:
There's cretainly enough meat in the casting there to hide two setscrews at the bottom of long bores. I'd say that would qualifiy as a "Booby trap".
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#17
IP: 192.186.122.174
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yeah I think the right hand hole you marked in the pic Ed is going to need some better light and gentle exploration!
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#18
IP: 100.40.58.241
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I've checked my notes and photos, but the details I was hoping to find on the 2 set screws are not there. IIRC, the 2 screws are in the *same hole*, set one on top of the other. Someone please correct me if I've misremembered.
j. |
#19
IP: 75.145.5.222
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From Don:
Yes, the idler gear shaft is indeed difficult to remove and replace. The first booby trap that you'll encounter is that there are 2 (not one) quarter/twenty Allen-headed set screws in the same hole which will be holding the shaft in place from below. Most machine shops seem to be able to safely pull and replace the shaft if it needs machining, but please resist the temptation to simply pound it out from the crankcase side of the block. To do so not only damages the inside end of the shaft, but risks cracking the block. We recommend removing the shaft to be re-machined any time that it is noticeably scoured. Otherwise, the bushing (even a new one) will quickly wear excessively. In terms of a specification for the brass bushing to shaft clearance, our machine shop tells me that a standard ASTM clearance for that type of bearing would be .002. However, Universal recommended a wider clearance (up to .004"), so that a generous amount of oil would flow past the bushing and work its way out to the outer edge of the idler gear to be "flung" over to the small catch basin in the rear face of the accessory drive. You can read more about this system of providing oil for the accessory drive in a Tech Tip on our website called "Accessory drive repair and modification". As a summarizing note, we have seen many idler gears and shafts come into our shops with quite badly worn shafts and bushings, and while we know that loose idler gears can create quite a "clicking" sound at low RPM, we have never heard of a gear or shaft actually failing in service. |
#20
IP: 174.89.8.43
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There it is!
Ok.. more careful looking and found the idler spindle set screws! For future reference.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (10-21-2020) |
#21
IP: 174.89.8.43
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Since the block is going in for testing and cleaning, I assume ALL the plugs and such nčed to be removed yes? Like the ones in these pics?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (10-21-2020) |
#22
IP: 32.211.28.40
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Yes, remove all those plugs. This will give you or the shop access to the passages. Use similar weapons for cleaning as are used for a rifle barrel - wire brush on a long thin rod.
Original plugs have a cross slot. I changed to plugs with a recessed hex (they take an allen wrench). Oh yeah, be sure the camshaft bearings are removed before they hot tank the block. When you get the block back, I recommend you change some of the original fasteners from bolts to studs with nuts. I've done this at the water jacket cover plate, the tappet cover plate, and the carb attachment to the manifold. Last edited by Al Schober; 10-21-2020 at 10:11 PM. |
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TimBSmith (10-22-2020) |
#23
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Quote:
What is the best way to get the cam bearings out? Piece of wood the same diameter and gently tapping with a mallet? I like the hex plugs idea! I was thinking about that for the water jacket cover plate, but will do it for the others as well.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#24
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Cam bearings
good advice from Don of course!
answered my questions about the cam bearings. https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...85&postcount=7
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (10-22-2020) |
#25
IP: 75.145.5.222
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Memo to self:
When "A" is below "B" with the engine right-side-up, "A" is above "B" when the engine is upside-down. Duh.... Bill |
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GregH (10-23-2020) |
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