Engine starts but won't run.

[MattWilcox]

Hi everyone, I am new to this website and forum but have learned a lot already. I appreciate your feedback and help.

Here are the symptoms:
We started the engine no problem and went out into the channel at no wake speed, very slow. As soon as we cranked it up to full throttle to get out into the the Chesapeake Bay, the engine puttered out and cut off. We then started her up again and she yet again failed to run with the throttle high. Eventually, when we had gone back to the dock, she would not even start. We changed the water separator and the in-line filter. She still wouldn't start on her own. We sprayed some starting fluid into the carburetor and she started up but would not run on high throttle (even in neutral).

Here are some specs:
We have an A4 (of course) with electric ignition and electric fuel pump.

Questions:
Firstly, what do you all think the potential problems are?

More specifically:
After reading other threads, I think (and I could very well be wrong) that the potential problems are with the carburetor, fuel lines, and/or fuel pump. If I have an electric pump, how do I test that it is working properly? Can I test it without turning on the engine?

Anyways, I would really appreciate some help on this. I am a beginner when it comes to this engine. My dad and one of his friends restored our boat (bought the rotted hull for $1) over the course of years. I myself know practically nothing about the engine but am learning. Anyways, thanks again and sorry for the long post.

[smosher]

I had the same issue. I ended up taking off the passage plug and using the priming lever on the mechanical fuel pump, flushed some gas through the carb.
Little black pieces came out. Engine ran fine after I put the passage plug back.
I added a polishing filter, Moyer has it and been fine since.

Steve

[Mo]

Don`t let a minor become a `Major`.

Might have to give your Dad and his bud a call....and you dig in and help as well, of course. Sounds to me like you took dirt up from the tank. The tank will need to be cleaned out...this means manually. If it can be removed and cleaned all the better. All filters and elements need to be changed, old rubber fuel lines changed, carb cleaned out.

This problem is going to continue time after time and is potentially dangerous. Once a boat with a dirty tank gets into chop the dirt is stirred up and eventually some will get past filters and block the carb. You are then in a `no engine` situation over a `minor` problem that just became a `major`.

[sastanley]

Matt, Welcome.

I agree with Steve regarding your immediate issue...the main jet is likely clogged..it takes over from the idle jet somewhere around 1,100-1,200 RPM.
If your fuel pump runs with the key "on", you can flip it on and take a few seconds and follow Steve's advice to try and flush out the carb jet by removing the main passage plug (1/2" wrench I think). If the fuel pump is hooked up to an Oil Pressure Safety Switch (i.e., if you don't hear the fuel pump run when the key is "on" but the engine isn't), then you'll need to bypass the OPSS and jumper 12v to the fuel pump to make it work..this is relatively easy, and most people run a wire from the big battery cable on the starter to the (+) on the fuel pump and it should whir away. Make sure you have something ready to catch the fuel, and ventilate properly before trying to start the engine again.
A bad enough clog may mean a carb removal and cleaning..this is a normal periodic maintenance item, one you will eventually tackle anyway.

I also agree with Mo, and he is looking farther down the line, the actual likely cause. If you (or Pops) don't know when the fuel lines were last replaced, replace them and be sure to use A1 fuel hose rated to handle ethanol.

Even though I replaced all of the fuel line between the tank & the carb, I still had little black pieces of stuff getting in the fuel system..turns out it was from the fuel fill hose. It was original and flaking apart on the inside.

Several cautions here since you are a newbie & we want to help you out:
#1 - Do not crank for extended periods in a no-start situation (opinion varies a little here..'extended' to me means more than 12-15 seconds) ...the water pump continues to dump water in the exhaust when cranking and the engine's exhaust evacuates the water thru the exhaust system when it is running..no run = no water out, just water in. Lots of crank and no run eventually backfills water up the exhaust side and dumps into the crankcase.
The fix for this is when you are in no-start/troublshooting mode is to close the raw water thru-hull so the pump can't suck water. Don't forget to open it again once you get it running...the impellers seem pretty robust and will tolerate running 'dry' for just a little bit.

#2 - Do not leave the key "on" for extended periods if the engine is not running. This will eventually burn up the coil. Your safety window here varies..30 second increments for troublehshooting/flushing fuel with the fuel pump??..you are probably OK. Several minutes??..that is pushing it and I am not sure if it will work next time.. - This is where things like jumper wires come in to play to bypass OPSS's and stuff to power fuel pumps for troubleshooting..once you get it running, you can remove the jumpers and everything will be hunky dorey.

OK, I've rambled on enough and my coffee is getting cold here at my desk. Keep firing away with the questions...we were all newbies once, and now you don't have to feel bad about the long post since my response is longer..

[Dave Neptune]

Good call.

MattWilcox, first welcome to the Afourian Forum!
Certainly sounds as if it is a fuel issue. Did you try the choke and if so did it make a differance? Now back to my least favorite speech a simple fuel preassure gage between the last filter and the carb will tell you if it is a fuel issue. If you have preassure it is probably inside the carb and if the preassure is low it is behind the gage.
Check the lines and everything you touched when changing out the filters for integrity and double check all hose clamps. If you lines are cracking or old just go ahead and replace them, old hoses can generate many lil leaks to suck in air comprimising fuel preassure.
Be sure and shut off the water when troubleshooting this so you don't backfill the exhaust and allow water into the manifold.

Dave Neptune

[MattWilcox]

Thanks so much for the advice. I am kinda the point man for the online forum, and I'll get back to you as soon as we get a chance to go to the boat. You guys collectively answered the questions that I have for now which is great, so thanks a lot!

[CalebD]

Gas like this

This is what the last gallon or so of gas looked like when I drained my 20 gallon tank. The tank had not been inspected in at least 10 years.
The wonders of ethanol laced gasoline (E10).
Fuel in this condition will make a carburetor run very rough, if at all.

[yeahjohn]

I am going with a electrical issue... Check your battery terminals and make sure all your wires are very snug, better yet replace wing nuts with lock nuts and wrench them down. Also check wires coming off ignition coil and fuel pump, and all grounds. Just go around and shake the wire connections if they are lose everything may work fine at dock but not on the water.

The fuel mixture screw can be a simple fix too. Your restart issue may be the fact that you are eventually flooding the engine. If you walk away from it for a few hours than come back and it starts you are probably just flooding it out once the problem arises. Those are my thoughts based on my summer of atomic 4 trouble shooting.

[Burton]

Cleaning fuel tank

While we're on the subject, how exactly does one go about cleaning out the fuel tank? The tank on my Alberg 30 is located on the centreline behind the engine and could only be removed if the engine is puled out first. Do you simply pump out the fuel through the filler pipe, and if so, what type of pump/device do you use (with the boat in the water it is not likely that i could use siphon action).

Burton

S.V. "Mahseer"

[Jenny III]

Jenny III Atomic 4 choke has to be on for engine to run

Hi All

My atomic 4 has a rebuild 4 bolt carb and starts pretty good with choke full on. After warm up it does not like having the choke valve opened. If so, engine stalls. Checked gasoline quality in tank, drained carb, blew it out from both ends with carb cleaner. Gasoline is fresh Shell 91 without ethanol. Just changed the fuel hoses.

Any thoughts?

Much appreciated

Gary

[Dave Neptune]

First welcome to the MMI forum. If the choke needs to engaged for the engine to run there are a couple of possibilities. It means the engine is to lean and this can be a plugged up carb or a low fuel level in the carb caused by a lack of fuel pressure IE a weak fuel pump or a clogged filter.

If you are going to be working on an issue like this a fuel pressure gage can answer a lot of questions which will lead to a solution.

Fuel pressure ( delivery ) can be affected by a loose fuel or fuel line fitting leaking a bit of air into the lines causing a lack of fuel pressure. Check all of the clamps from the tank to the fuel pump. If all are secure then look to the fuel pump and or the carb. First fuel pressure then the carb.

Dave Neptune

[Jenny III]

Jenny III Choking issue

Hi Dave

Thanks much for the quick response. I put fresh new hose on from the tank to the carb, with double hose clamps yesterday.

How much pressure should I be looking for?

Best regards

Gary

[Dave Neptune]

Anywhere from 2~5 PSI at the carb depending on the type of pump.

Do you have any filters in the line?

Dave Neptune

[Jenny III]

Jenny III Choke issue

Hi Dave

I have a fresh fuel filter installed and when I emptied it yesterday, the fuel was a bit murky...so it's doing it's job. Downstream of filter fuel sample was very pristine.

I found a pressure gauge and fittings so will have at it tomorrow.

Greatly appreciate the advice.

Gary

[Jenny III]

Jenny III choke issue

Hi all

Got a pressure gauge and got about 1 or 2 psi...pump beyond it's best before date. Installed a brand new Facet gold flo, 4 - 5.5 psi. Test ran engine...started and ran extremely better, choke ok being opened - push control all the way in. Engine warmed up nicely with good smooth throttle response. Then things went sideways! Tried to gently put vee drive in forward and reverse while tied securely at the dock. ...engine stalled under load despite adding RPM. Will go back tomorrow with swim mask and check if prop shaft is fouled. Any other causes come to mind? Oil levels in engine and vee drive to requirements.

Best regards

Gary