Return to the home page...

Go Back   Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Home of the Afourians > Discussion Topics > Troubleshooting

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 06-29-2017, 05:04 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Engine won't start, 3 cylinders no compression

Howdy

Wife and I fulfilled our long time dream of buying a sailboat. 27' Ericson 1974. When we came to look at it, the po had the carb in a bag and a MMI rebuild kit in his hand. I told him I'd fix the carb in exchange for the dinghy and it was a deal. I had never heard of the A4 engine, but being a former nuke submarine mechanic, I figured I could fix this... the next day we motored to Everett!

That was last fall. Shortly after we bought her, I developed a back problem (from 15 years of firefighting) and I was in pain all winter. I neglected the boat over the winter We had a heater running but no other winterizing done.

Surgery in April was a success, and after feeling well enough, I went down to start the engine; it would not start. I began haphazardly troubleshooting, using this forum and the MMI S&O manual. I've read posts for hours, and I think I have it narrowed down.

Engine #190852 UJ, 5101, Carb 68, freshwater cooling system, has cabin heater run off engine (raw water i think), exhaust straight down to water lift muffler (sketch A in S&O manual)

I did full troubleshooting of ignition, I get spark between points. replaced cap, rotor, condensor, wires, coil...

Pulled carb again. Nasty brownish/white sludge in float chamber. Cleaned carb. Drained fuel tank, added fresh fuel with MMO, checked Racor filter, looked clean. (replaced last fall) . Checked sediment bowl on fuel pump. clean fuel.

I had tried starting multiple times during all this troubleshooting. I then read the advice to CLOSE THE SEAWATER VALVE. ugh. Well as I checked it shut, the valve broke and now minor flooding in engine room!

Temporary repair to valve worked (another story) and so now I am hauling out next week to fix thru hull valve. But back to the engine...

With flame arrestor removed, I tried to start engine. A liquid like brownish thin gravy filled the air intake bowl under the choke. I kept sopping it up hoping it would clear. Then a big gurgle and about a cup of liquid appeared there. (not fuel).

Reading on, and discovering its probably water, I start that path of troubleshooting. Compression in cyl 4, none in 1, 2, or 3. Valves stuck? I poured a little MMO in each and came home last night dejected.

Fearing I could cause more harm by continuing, I am humbly asking for advice. I have learned a lot from you all and really appreciate this community.

Thanks

Brent W
S/V Maren
Everett WA

Name:  Maren Engine.jpg
Views: 350
Size:  28.9 KB
Reply With Quote
  #2   IP: 74.106.224.39
Old 06-30-2017, 09:06 PM
Oldlaxer1's Avatar
Oldlaxer1 Oldlaxer1 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Phoenix, Maryland
Posts: 188
Thanks: 75
Thanked 38 Times in 20 Posts
Does the oil on the dipstick look milky? If it is, get it changed quickly. Use cheap oil because you're going to want to change it again (maybe twice)
Take your time and eliminate potential causes without causing more problems. Read Neil's thread "Trouble shooting is a process, not guessing ". http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=10222
Then take a logical approach. Others with a lot more knowledge than me will be along shortly!
__________________
John Novotny
1973 Tartan 30 #186
Baltimore, MD
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Oldlaxer1 For This Useful Post:
Brent W (06-30-2017)
  #3   IP: 74.106.224.39
Old 06-30-2017, 09:10 PM
Oldlaxer1's Avatar
Oldlaxer1 Oldlaxer1 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Phoenix, Maryland
Posts: 188
Thanks: 75
Thanked 38 Times in 20 Posts
I took a closer look (as close as you can on an old iPad) and I'm not seeing FWC components. Is there a heat exchanger out of view?
__________________
John Novotny
1973 Tartan 30 #186
Baltimore, MD
Reply With Quote
  #4   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 06-30-2017, 11:28 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldlaxer1 View Post
Does the oil on the dipstick look milky? If it is, get it changed quickly. Use cheap oil because you're going to want to change it again (maybe twice)
yes it was milky and the level was high. I changed it, and read a few posts about this issue. Plan to do it 2 or 3 more times

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldlaxer1 View Post
Take your time and eliminate potential causes without causing more problems. Read Neil's thread "Trouble shooting is a process, not guessing ". http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=10222
Then take a logical approach. Others with a lot more knowledge than me will be along shortly!
yes sir, thats the plan, and thank you!

Also, Yes to your next question, there is FWC, Heat exchanger looks like the CFWK_02_265 and the pump is Oberdorfer 201M 01
Reply With Quote
  #5   IP: 98.171.168.92
Old 07-01-2017, 02:58 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
[QUOTE=Brent W;107098]
With flame arrestor removed, I tried to start engine. A liquid like brownish thin gravy filled the air intake bowl under the choke. I kept sopping it up hoping it would clear. Then a big gurgle and about a cup of liquid appeared there. (not fuel).
Reading on, and discovering its probably water, I start that path of troubleshooting. Compression in cyl 4, none in 1, 2, or 3. Valves stuck? I poured a little MMO in each and came home last night dejected.
Fearing I could cause more harm by continuing, I am humbly asking for advice. I have learned a lot from you all and really appreciate this community.
Brent W
S/V Maren
Everett WA

Take it easy on yourself. You are doing the right things. All is not lost. At least the engine turns over.
Here are some thoughts for your consideration.
(1)The way it sounds to me there was (is?) water in the cylinders that was pushed out through a stuck open intake valve(s). Take the spark plugs out, put a rag over the top of the engine, and spin it until the water is out of it. Then put some MMO or regular oiling the cylinders and spin it again with the starter. The idea is to get rid of the water and lube the cylinders.
(2)Might as well take the carb off and plan on rebuilding it. Sounds like it is full of foreign material. Once you get the carb off take the plate off so you can see the lifters. This will help you nail down the stuck valve status.
(3)I am not familiar with the winters in your area. Is there any chance the engine was frozen when it wasn't winterized? If the engine was frozen do a pressure test of the block to see if it was cracked. If you need to pull the engine because of freeze damage there is no reason to try to start it before you pull it.
I am truly sorry to hear of your misfortune. If the block is not cracked you should be up and running soon. Hang in there. Others will be along with more suggestions.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #6   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 07-01-2017, 04:29 AM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Take it easy on yourself. You are doing the right things. All is not lost.
Thanks! I'm amazed by the encouraging folks on this forum!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
The way it sounds to me there was (is?) water in the cylinders that was pushed out through a stuck open intake valve(s). Take the spark plugs out, put a rag over the top of the engine, and spin it until the water is out of it. Then put some MMO or regular oiling the cylinders and spin it again with the starter. The idea is to get rid of the water and lube the cylinders.
I thought so as well and took those actions. What causes them to stick? Could it just be the winter without attention?


Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
. Might as well take the carb off and plan on rebuilding it. Sounds like it is full of foreign material. Once you get the carb off take the plate off so you can see the lifters. This will help you nail down the stuck valve status.
makes sense. I did and there was some gunk and some new orange rust stains on the choke and butterfly valve.

I was contemplating removing the head and exhaust manifold to inspect/clean/repair. Would this be a logical step at this point? What is best way to unstick valves if the MMO bath doesn't do the trick?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Is there any chance the engine was frozen when it wasn't winterized? If the engine was frozen do a pressure test of the block to see if it was cracked.
Fairly mild winters, but it did freeze a few times. I did have a small electric space heater in the cabin all winter running, and I hoped that was enough, but I wouldn't bet my life on it. Does the antifreeze in the FWC system prevent that? If I'm learning correctly, the raw water doesn't enter engine, only injected into exhaust where it exits manifold?

Thank you

BW
Reply With Quote
  #7   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 07-01-2017, 05:55 AM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,049
Thanks: 167
Thanked 1,587 Times in 1,063 Posts
I did not read where a cooling system pressure test was recommended. I think it's time and should be performed before pulling off the head. At this point it will hopefully eliminate the possibility of a water jacket breach.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #8   IP: 98.171.168.92
Old 07-01-2017, 11:15 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I did not read where a cooling system pressure test was recommended. I think it's time and should be performed before pulling off the head. At this point it will hopefully eliminate the possibility of a water jacket breach.
Post #5 item(3).
You're posting @ 1:55 AM? My goodness.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
mikke60 (07-04-2017)
  #9   IP: 70.186.210.78
Old 07-01-2017, 11:31 AM
Tim's Avatar
Tim Tim is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Gloucester, VA
Posts: 160
Thanks: 38
Thanked 44 Times in 32 Posts
From the original description of the problem, the water appears to be from cranking a non starting engine without first closing the thru hull. Also, the engine is freshwater cooled. So assuming the coolant is antifreeze, I wouldn't go chasing after a frozen/cracked block. Get the water out of the cylinders/crankcase, clean the carb, make sure you have clean fuel, free up the stuck valves and see if it will start.
__________________
Pearson 10M
Gloucester, Va
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Tim For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #10   IP: 98.171.168.92
Old 07-01-2017, 11:36 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent W View Post

I thought so as well and took those actions. What causes them to stick? Could it just be the winter without attention?

Not starting the engine for awhile without proper fogging out or winterization can result in stuck valves. More likely in your case water caused corrosion which resulted in stuck valves.

I was contemplating removing the head and exhaust manifold to inspect/clean/repair. Would this be a logical step at this point? What is best way to unstick valves if the MMO bath doesn't do the trick?

The best and sometimes the only way to unstick valves is to remove the head. This also allows visual inspection of the valve seats. If you can get the engine to start on two cylinders the other stuck valves it might free up. Your choice at this point.

Fairly mild winters, but it did freeze a few times. I did have a small electric space heater in the cabin all winter running, and I hoped that was enough, but I wouldn't bet my life on it. Does the antifreeze in the FWC system prevent that? If I'm learning correctly, the raw water doesn't enter engine, only injected into exhaust where it exits manifold?

Dang you're good. Yes, hopefully the antifreeze in the engine cooling jacket saved the day. If the cooling water goes out through the manifold as in a typical installation you should do a pressure test of the manifold.
BW
I hope you stick around the forum. You have an excellent foundation of basic knowledge and will be an asset to the forum.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #11   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 07-01-2017, 11:54 AM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,049
Thanks: 167
Thanked 1,587 Times in 1,063 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Post #5 item(3).
You're posting @ 1:55 AM? My goodness.

TRUE GRIT
Ah, so it is. Good advice if I say so myself.

After a particularly grueling work week I fell asleep around 7:00 P.M. last night, up @ 1:30 A.M. for the requisite pee and checked the forum. Back to bed @ 2:00, up @ 7:00 for 10˝ hours of sleep combined. I really needed it.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Administrator (07-01-2017)
  #12   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 07-01-2017, 01:58 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Thanks to all who replied!

As I was tracing out the SW cooling path and exhaust system, I noticed the rectangular cube on the end of the exhaust manifold where the SW hose enters, and I assumed this is where SW and exhaust mix. Does it act as an anti-siphon?

Good advice so far, and I'm hoping Tim is right and I can get valve unstuck w/out removing head.

When you say "Pressure test of manifold", that means the cooling water side, correct? Wouldn't that be evident by a drop in anti freeze level in the heat exchanger/overflow tank?

Plan is today to check compression again, if valves are still stuck, then remove exhaust manifold, inspect/clean and pressure test, and inspect valves from there to attempt to un-stick. Thoughts?

Thanks

BW
Reply With Quote
  #13   IP: 70.199.151.63
Old 07-01-2017, 10:23 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Now what?

So I'm down here on the boat. When I turn it over, watery grey oily mix fills intake under flame arrestor.

Some Water spurted out spark plug holes when removed and engine turned over.

I removed SW hose from exhaust outlet from manifold. When I turned it over, water comes out hole in square chamber where SW and exhaust mix (what's that thing called?)

Obviously water is backing up from exhaust. Could the water lift muffler be flooded? Once I fix that issue, how do I dry out motor?

Thanks

BW
Reply With Quote
  #14   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 07-01-2017, 10:55 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,049
Thanks: 167
Thanked 1,587 Times in 1,063 Posts
Before commenting I'd like to know more about what you're calling the square chamber. Is it installed on the back end of the manifold on the top, about 3/4" square (cube actually)?
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #15   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 07-02-2017, 02:20 AM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I'd like to know more about what you're calling the square chamber.

see photo (with SW hose disconnected) I figured out that it is where the SW and exhaust mix, although I'm not sure of it's operation exactly.

So here is the actions I took today... I figured that water was backing up from exhaust somehow, even though i have the damaged SW through hull shut. It must be leaking by. So I disconnected the SW hose where it enters the exhaust and ran it to a bucket.

When I turned the engine over, some SW flowed out the hose, and also it gushed out of the exhaust hole where the hose goes in. Could the exhaust system be flooded? So I disconnected the water lift muffler and dumped it out, and rinsed out the gunky water that was inside... rust particles and chunks. Same stuff that was backing up into carb intake bowl.

After replacing WLM and sopping up a little more nasty from the intake of carb, I tried it again. Lo and behold, with full throttle and no choke I got it to start... sounded horrible. I'm assuming it's running on one cylinder? Checked compression again and did not feel any on cyl 1, 2, & 3.

I squirted in some MMO to those cylinders above the valves.

Progress! Is there hope of those "unsticking" without removing the head?

Thanks again for all the help

BW
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #16   IP: 98.171.168.92
Old 07-02-2017, 02:55 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent W View Post
I squirted in some MMO to those cylinders above the valves.
Progress! Is there hope of those "unsticking" without removing the head?
BW
Yes, you may get the valves unstuck without removing the head. Keep at it. Do you have enough coolant flowing through the engine to run it for awhile even on only1 or2 cylinders? I'll send some good karma your way.
You for sure have some exhaust system\plumbing work to do. I don't understand the details that you have posted R\E the exhaust system and how the water is getting into he engine but I can tell you are on it.
You're hot on the trail. BTW these engines are tough little beasties.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017)
  #17   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 07-02-2017, 08:46 AM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,049
Thanks: 167
Thanked 1,587 Times in 1,063 Posts
That is a water jacketed exhaust elbow and depending on the configuration of the internal passages it's possible there was some residual water left inside after you removed the water hose resulting in a wet burp. It's also possible it's breached internally creating your entire problem.

Please have a look at this thread from three years ago:
https://www.moyermarine.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=8443
It discusses a similar setup with similar problems and includes a cross sectional picture of a mixing elbow.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-02-2017), CalebD (07-03-2017), Dave Neptune (07-05-2017)
  #18   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 07-03-2017, 04:26 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Well I talked with Ken today (very helpful) and I'm getting parts to clean up valves and replace valve springs and also redo exhaust while I'm at it.

Is it necessary to have head machined flat? Obviously I'm going to inspect it first to look for problems.
Reply With Quote
  #19   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 07-03-2017, 06:38 PM
tenders tenders is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Harlem YC, City Island, NY
Posts: 1,391
Thanks: 37
Thanked 214 Times in 143 Posts
Have you tried inspecting the valves through the spark plug holes, and trying to gently tap them down through the holes with an Allen wrench or other angled implement? A couple of squirts of MMO on the valves can't hurt.

Once you can work the valves up and down a few times it is not unusual for them to just keep working. Adding a few ounces of MMO to the fuel on a regular basis keeps them that way on my A4.
Reply With Quote
  #20   IP: 173.85.106.132
Old 07-04-2017, 04:42 AM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tenders View Post
Have you tried inspecting the valves through the spark plug holes, and trying to gently tap them down through the holes with an Allen wrench or other angled implement? A couple of squirts of MMO on the valves can't hurt.
Thanks for the reply. Yes I did that. no luck

Long day today! Pulled off manifold, head, and exhaust. I found a collapsed interior on the 16" exhaust hose leading down to the WLM, and it was almost worn thru.

The valves and springs were nasty. lifters and valves stuck, sticky rusty looking goo holding them in place. I will post pictures soon...

I am having a blast pulling it apart, cleaning and fixing stuff as I go. I think this could get addicting.
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brent W For This Useful Post:
Administrator (07-04-2017), Dave Neptune (07-05-2017), Oldlaxer1 (07-04-2017)
  #21   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old 07-04-2017, 09:33 AM
tenders tenders is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Harlem YC, City Island, NY
Posts: 1,391
Thanks: 37
Thanked 214 Times in 143 Posts
That's some serious progress, congratulations.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to tenders For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-08-2017)
  #22   IP: 47.150.247.213
Old 07-04-2017, 01:03 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent W View Post
I am having a blast pulling it apart, cleaning and fixing stuff as I go. I think this could get addicting.
Could get?
I'm just afraid you are already addicted.
Welcome to the club.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-08-2017)
  #23   IP: 206.208.64.136
Old 07-13-2017, 08:28 PM
Brent W's Avatar
Brent W Brent W is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 16
Thanks: 64
Thanked 7 Times in 3 Posts
Progress

So I took valves, nuts, bolts, head, valve cover, manifold and cleaned them up with brass wire brush in my dremel

I had to cut the pipe at the exhaust flange, then I beat the remaining pipe out of the flange.

Cleaned up the corroded and gross lifters, block surfaces, piston top, etc.

Rebuilt Carb (again) with all new parts. Installed the MMI oil change kit. Painted head and manifold.

Only about 8" clearance on side of motor. Now I know why Don says "I cannot recommend doing this with engine in place" The #4 exhaust valve spring keeper took me 1-1/2 hours to finally install!

Exhaust was another issue. What a royal pain in the butt. I re-did it 3 times before I got something that works, and I'm still not 100% happy. Very little clearance, not the best connection to water lift muffler, hard to access.

But after a 14 hour day yesterday putting everything together...

STARTED UP FIRST TRY! SWEET VICTORY

More to follow...

BW
Attached Images
   
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brent W For This Useful Post:
Administrator (07-13-2017), CalebD (07-14-2017), Dave Neptune (07-14-2017)
  #24   IP: 72.194.220.100
Old 07-13-2017, 09:52 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent W View Post
But after a 14 hour day yesterday putting everything together...
STARTED UP FIRST TRY! SWEET VICTORY
BW
CONGRATULATIONS!
You can work on my A4 anytime.
Hope you stick around the forum. You're a valuable asset to have on board.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post:
Brent W (07-13-2017)
  #25   IP: 72.194.220.100
Old 07-14-2017, 03:53 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 3,292
Thanks: 45
Thanked 706 Times in 525 Posts
Another thought.
If you are going to be "redoing" the exhaust this would be an excellent time to switch to the Thatch Modification where water is introduced into the manifold at the low-end and exits at the high end. The result will be no air pockets in the manifold and improved cooling.
Search the forum by Thatch modification. There are a lot of posts on the subject.

TRUE GRIT
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine Won't Start PeterMulhern Troubleshooting 6 03-28-2012 12:20 PM
Re: ENGINE WILL NOT START CONTINUED wmmulvey Troubleshooting 3 07-18-2011 12:28 PM
Lower compression in non-adjacent cylinders rods a4 Troubleshooting 4 08-24-2007 03:40 PM
Engine runs then dies Now it won't start Mal Leichter Troubleshooting 11 08-19-2006 03:30 PM
engine died no compression??? casey Troubleshooting 3 07-29-2006 07:24 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.


Universal® is a registered trademark of Westerbeke Corporation

Copyright © 2004-2020 Moyer Marine Inc.

All Rights Reserved