#26
IP: 69.250.111.245
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ken is always patient..another reason we love the Moyer crew. The IR temp gun is a great tool to help diagnose these issues...and another welcome..even though I am several posts late!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#27
IP: 73.35.200.244
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are we sure he is overheating? mine runs at 180
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'69 Newport 30 MKI Hull #20 |
#28
IP: 148.59.218.170
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I just went for a cruise testing the engine temperature with the heat gun at 30 mins of 5 kts. The engine temperature didn’t get above 170F, but the gauge was 15-40F higher.
I’ll put in a 150F thermostat, new temp sending unit, and gauge when the parts arrive in 2 weeks. Hopefully problem solved. I’ll report the results. |
#29
IP: 67.169.215.221
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IMO, if you have fresh water cooling... get a 180F thermostat. You can run the engine at a temperature it prefers to run at vs. the cost saving compromise of a raw water cooled engine.
Minus the corrosion potential... of course.
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Thanks, Ron Portland, OR |
#30
IP: 209.52.88.132
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I replaced the temperature sender and the gauge. The first test I did at lower (not lowest) rpms, sitting on the mooring ball, showed the gauge matching a thermostat gun reading (128) just below the thermostat housing.
However, I also used the thermo gun to measure other spots on the head and got 186 at the in the point in the picture below. Is this normal? Or do I need to consider other things? |
#31
IP: 67.169.215.221
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The heads can often get a bit of blockage in passages between the block and head. I couldn't tell from the pic, do you have diverter valve on coolant line into the thermostat housing? You may be sending most of the cooling water directly to the housing and then exhaust manifold, bypassing the block and heads.
What is the temp at the ends of the exhaust manifold? ... and can you shoot the block as well?
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Thanks, Ron Portland, OR |
#32
IP: 209.52.99.114
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Thanks Ron.
I do not have a diverter valve on the coolant line into the thermostat housing. The block is approx 15 degrees cooler then the head. I didn't shoot the exhaust housing, but it has been fine when I've tested it in the past. |
#33
IP: 67.169.215.221
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Well, a crazy experiment would be to clamp off the hose between the side port to the block and the thermostat housing and remeasure. I've had success with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works great when you want to bleed a system where the hose layouts are sub-optimal to gravity, and you need to rebalance flow.
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Thanks, Ron Portland, OR |
Tags |
cooling, fresh water cooling, over heating, over-heating, temperature |
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