Return to the home page...

Go Back   Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Home of the Afourians > Discussion Topics > General Interest

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-09-2011, 12:34 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
Oil pressure safety switch

Hello,

I recently bought a "rebuilt in 2009 and not run since" A4. It is a newer model, and has the Fawcet pump. The Oil pressure safety switch was located on "Point A" in my photo. The Moyer Service book shows it at "Point B" on page 1-5. Should I move it? Not at all sure how it works, as our old A4 had a mechanical fuel pump and no safety switch.

Thanks,
Marty 1967 T 27 Poseidon
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #2   IP: 174.65.44.114
Old 10-09-2011, 12:53 AM
jpian0923's Avatar
jpian0923 jpian0923 is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 976
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Red arrow points to recommended port. http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/3.5.html
Seems like point A would interfere with carburetor somehow. For maintenance reasons I'd put it where the red arrow is...just behind the flywheel housing.
Attached Images
 
__________________
"Jim"
S/V "Ahoi"
1967 Islander 29
Harbor Island, San Diego
2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

Last edited by jpian0923; 10-09-2011 at 12:58 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #3   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-09-2011, 01:01 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
sending unit vs safety switch?

Thanks Jim,

Isn't that where the Oil Pressure Sending unit goes? I'm asking about the Oil Pressure Safety Switch?

-Marty
Reply With Quote
  #4   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-09-2011, 01:03 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
oops

...just read the link you sent. That answers it....thanks!!

-Marty
Reply With Quote
  #5   IP: 174.65.44.114
Old 10-09-2011, 01:09 AM
jpian0923's Avatar
jpian0923 jpian0923 is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 976
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Marty, looks like you have multiple threads for the same rebuild. This is just my opinion but, one thread makes it easier to follow your progress and offer advice without flipping back and forth to each thread. This way you won't have to start every new thread with a new introduction.

And, you only have to answer the standard questions once.
__________________
"Jim"
S/V "Ahoi"
1967 Islander 29
Harbor Island, San Diego
2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

Last edited by jpian0923; 10-09-2011 at 01:16 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #6   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-09-2011, 02:26 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
threads

Thanks Jim,

I guess there are pros and cons for both ways. Right now I have so many questions that making separate threads is helping me organize..plus if someone is looking into a particular topic later on the thread titles might help.

This forum is fantastically helpful and respectful: really a great community.
__________________
Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC

Reply With Quote
  #7   IP: 174.65.44.114
Old 10-09-2011, 02:38 AM
jpian0923's Avatar
jpian0923 jpian0923 is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 976
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Good point.
__________________
"Jim"
S/V "Ahoi"
1967 Islander 29
Harbor Island, San Diego
2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date
Reply With Quote
  #8   IP: 98.101.207.195
Old 10-09-2011, 04:58 AM
jhwelch's Avatar
jhwelch jhwelch is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 477
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I have my oil pressure sender and the safety switch both at the point nearest the flywheel connected to a "T". For me access is so much better there than at the point back by the reversing gear.

-Jonathan
Reply With Quote
  #9   IP: 71.183.233.249
Old 10-09-2011, 10:31 AM
Loki9's Avatar
Loki9 Loki9 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 379
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
All three of those ports are connected internally, so you can use any of them. Ease of access will be the deciding factor.
Reply With Quote
  #10   IP: 24.152.131.220
Old 10-09-2011, 12:06 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhwelch View Post
I have my oil pressure sender and the safety switch both at the point nearest the flywheel connected to a "T". For me access is so much better there than at the point back by the reversing gear.
I had those two plus the alarm sensor on the same 1/8" nipple behind the flywheel and although it worked fine I got concerned over all that weight hanging on a long nipple with the addition of engine vibration. My solution was to remotely mount the sensor array on a nearby bulkhead and connect it to the oil pressure port with a short length of 300 psi rated hose from NAPA. It needed a supplemental ground wire to the array for the gauge sender and alarm switch to work.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
  #11   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-09-2011, 02:09 PM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
thanks!

That's all really useful: thanks!

-Marty
__________________
Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC

Reply With Quote
  #12   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-12-2011, 01:25 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
back from the abyss

Well, I decided to remove the dented up brass pipe that connected my oil sensor to the block just behind the flywheel so I could clean that area up more easily for painting. Simple, right? It was round all the way: nothing for a wrench to hold. Tried as big a pipe wrench as I could fit into that spot (weird angle) and still no go. Vise grips same. My penetrating oil is on the boat, so I didn't wait to use that. Tried harder, and the thing snapped off flush with the block. Hmmm. A neighbour loaned me a set of easy outs (!) , and I hadn't yet read about the horrors of using those. Long story slightly shorter, the easy out broke off flush too...with surprising little force. Hmmm. Went to bed and had bad dreams.
Next day found some time to make matters worse. Tried drilling with a small titanium drill bit. Too hard. Managed to cut a slot across with a dremel, heated it up with a blow torch, and tried to unscrew the easy out. No luck. Many, many tries ensued. The day passed. Skipped lunch. Tried heating more and tapping it around in a circle. Never moved. Finally in a daze I decided to use various dental burrs I've accumulated and managed to grind the easy out around its edges, hoping to get a pliers around it when it was just a doughnut hole. Took a while. Suddenly the whole thing popped INTO the port before I thought it was ready to grab. Tried to grab it with a needle nose, but that just nudged it in further. Tried to convince myself that would be fine. No luck. Had a brainstorm: grabbed a 1" long cylindrical rare earth magnet and stuck it on the end of a metal punch. It held there well, but I was afraid it would decide to stick to the block instead and join its friend there. Wrapped multiple layers of tape around the magnet and punch, so it would be less attracted to the sides of the hole in the block. Left the flat end exposed. Poked it gently in the hole - way into the hole - and heard/felt a satisfying clink! Pulled out a piece of easy out that was over an inch long. Poked around more but didn't find more.
After that, it was easy to pry the remains of the brass pipe out, as I could bend an edge over slightly where it was cut from making the slot earlier. Amazingly, the threads in the block seem fine: screwed in a new pipe as a test.
I feel great now! Its amazing how depressing that was: felt like my entire world was on hold.

-Marty
__________________
Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC

Reply With Quote
  #13   IP: 206.125.176.3
Old 10-12-2011, 10:29 AM
sastanley's Avatar
sastanley sastanley is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Solomons, MD
Posts: 7,016
Thanks: 1,134
Thanked 600 Times in 442 Posts
Thumbs up

Well...at least you now know that when you replace your buddy's broken Easy Out you won't be asking to borrow it again!
__________________
-Shawn
"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic3231_6.gif
Reply With Quote
  #14   IP: 108.23.219.10
Old 10-12-2011, 10:43 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grove, Oklahoma
Posts: 5,035
Thanks: 711
Thanked 1,289 Times in 839 Posts
Tapered threads!

Marty, careful with the sealing of the threads! If some of the high spots (top of the thread) are nicked they will not seal well. I'd first try to run a pipe tap into the hole and once it starts to cut only go ONE turn and be done with it. If you don't pay a bit of attention to the area after running a bit for leaks.

Good luck!
Dave Neptune
Reply With Quote
  #15   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-12-2011, 10:53 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
leak fears

Thanks for that, Dave,

I have little experience with taps. I was wondering how reliable those threads will be now. Also, the raised edge around the hole in the block now has a 1/16" deep narrow cut (from cutting the slot that didn't work). Could that cause a leak? Seems unlikely. But, all in all wondering if I should drill and tap a larger hole and start fresh. Advisable? hard to do?

Thanks,
Marty
__________________
Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC

Reply With Quote
  #16   IP: 206.125.176.3
Old 10-12-2011, 12:20 PM
sastanley's Avatar
sastanley sastanley is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Solomons, MD
Posts: 7,016
Thanks: 1,134
Thanked 600 Times in 442 Posts
Thumbs up tapping 101 - this is a great place to start!

Marty, I wouldn't go bigger unless you have to do so. Using Dave's suggestion to run the same size tap thru as the current hole to "clean up" the existing threads should be successful. If it is not successful and you ruin it, then you can drill out to a bigger hole and tap fresh, new threads...(not to mention the smaller sized taps are exponentially cheaper) - Be aware however, that the next size up in pipe is 1/4"..it is MUCH larger than the 1/8" you are currently working with. I had to enlarge one of my 1/8" block drains to 1/4", and it made the alternator belt clearance even tighter!

The biggest issue I've found with taps are their tendency to wobble as you start, especially when tapping new threads. Cleaning up existing threads are a great way to learn how to use one, & the material on these blocks is not hard to tap. Have some lubricating oil on hand..(a 16oz bottle of thread cutting oil will last you a lifetime), or any thin high quality oil like 3 in 1 should be OK too. I've even used MMO in a pinch..

Liberally apply oil to the tap. Have a rag handy under your workspace..it is runny & messy & you may have little flecks of metal carried away with the oil as you go. So, when I tap holes..I hold the tap lined up (level) and straight with one hand to stabilize it and turn slowly with the other as I feel the tap biting into the metal. The amount of inward pressure you apply varies, but in this case you should not need anymore than you would apply if you were simply screwing in a piece of pipe into the block. Remember, we are cleaning up existing threads, so the technique is a little less invasive & a little more delicate than cutting new threads... After 1/4 of a turn while the tap bites into the metal, STOP!, and back out about 1/2 turn..add a drop of oil on the tap and twist again until you bite for 1/4 turn, stop, back out 1/2, add oil, repeat. It is easy to break the tap if you go more than a 1/4 turn at time. Since these are tapered holes, Dave's comment to only do one complete turn is to simply clean the existing threads up and not enlarge the hole any further.

IF you were tapping a straight hole (i.e. machine screw) you would continue the 1/4 turn process until you had gone completely thru the material and the tap stopped biting.
__________________
-Shawn
"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic3231_6.gif

Last edited by sastanley; 10-12-2011 at 12:28 PM. Reason: more detail
Reply With Quote
  #17   IP: 75.157.247.99
Old 10-12-2011, 12:30 PM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bowen Island, BC
Posts: 679
Thanks: 91
Thanked 42 Times in 36 Posts
taps

Great how to info - thank you. I'll definitely clean up the existing threads and see how that goes.

-Marty
__________________
Marty
1967 Tartan 27
Bowen Island, BC

Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
oil pressure safety switch morgan_out_island Fuel System 5 05-25-2023 10:53 AM
oil pressure safety switch ramon Safety 7 05-18-2010 10:34 AM
Engine shuts off dwoodriff Troubleshooting 24 11-23-2008 10:50 PM
Redundant oil pressure safety switches? skhorleb Fuel System 1 05-19-2007 07:53 AM
wiring question- oil pressure safety switch? msmith10 Electrical 2 09-10-2006 08:03 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.


Universal® is a registered trademark of Westerbeke Corporation

Copyright © 2004-2024 Moyer Marine Inc.

All Rights Reserved