#51
IP: 72.220.176.93
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NDutton, thanks for the response. I will check timing again.
Last edited by sandiegomike; 08-17-2016 at 09:18 AM. |
#52
IP: 24.152.132.65
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Quote:
I'm sorry to keep after this but we've seen it before, the continued denial that the timing couldn't be off, it's been checked and checked again. One guy worked for three days looking at other stuff and he had the help of his professional mechanic neighbor. |
#53
IP: 72.220.176.93
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Quote:
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#54
IP: 24.152.132.65
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Your timing may be correct but until it is a certainty other efforts could be wasted. Remember, the crankshaft - where the marks are - makes two complete revolutions for every one revolution of the distributor.
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#55
IP: 206.125.176.3
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SD Mike,
Once you get timing confirmed as Neil suggested, I've noticed that sometimes everything looks right, but you need to rotate the distributor itself just a few degrees, while cranking, and sometimes the motor will fire. I had everything all statically set up, but I had to twist the dizzy a few degrees one way or the other and she purred like a kitten, but refused to run prior to the dizzy adjustment. Just be careful cuz your hands will be close to the accessory drive & alt. belt and stuff.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
The Following User Says Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (08-17-2016) |
#56
IP: 72.220.176.93
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Quote:
So the rotor still points in the same direction. Does this mean I am "close" on timing? I took the carb off and brought it home to do another cleaning. |
#57
IP: 72.220.176.93
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Quote:
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#58
IP: 174.58.77.1
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when I was a kid, I made a TDC thingy.
You take a spark plug and break off the top insulator, sort of. Then you put a balloon on the insulator, so that the compression stroke will fill the balloon. I dont know how easy that is to do now days. It was 40 years ago.... |
#59
IP: 24.152.132.65
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It has come up before . . . . .
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#60
IP: 76.179.157.47
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One comment - having been guilty of 'knowing I was at TDC', twice even.
The balloon and thumb techniques will tell you which stroke ends at TDC, but then adjust so that the pin on the driveshaft is exactly vertical - THAT is truly TDC. At that point, carefully (but only visually) align your #1 plug wire with the rotor, and assuming all else is good, the engine should start right up.
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
#61
IP: 72.220.176.93
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Now that is cool. I might make one just to have around.
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#62
IP: 72.220.176.93
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Quote:
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#63
IP: 71.200.116.197
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when working on frankenfour, I used the tips of disposable gloves in place of the balloon;
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#64
IP: 68.6.228.138
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Engine running - SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok, the engine is up and running. I cleaned the carb again, adjusted the floats, drained all the gas in the lines and filters and added more gas. Still no success. Then I remembered a guy that used to work on Atomic 4 engines in Oceanside Harbor. His name is Buck and lives in Bakersfield CA. I thought what the heck and gave him a call. He no longer makes doctor's visits to harbors. I told him what "we" have all done over the last couple months. Of course, I did have to do the valve work because I did not have compression.
So back to Buck. I told him I had copmpression, I had spark, I was timed and had fuel. He asked how old the boat is? Almost 50 years I said. Although, the part don't appear to be 50 years old. Buck said disconnect the exhaust and give it a try. He said take 2 asprins and call me back. In 5 minutes the engine was running, although quite loud without any exhaust. So, I have eliminated a couple parts as being clogged and it comes down to this part being clogged. I know it is part of the exhaust, but not sure if there is a specific name for it? Any recommendations to unclog this bugger? Honestly, I don't know how to thank you guys. If you were, or are local to Oceanside, I would be happy to buy several rounds beers. Thank you so much for all you have done an communicated. And a special thanks to a best friend that never didn't show up to help, Bajahaha Jim, thank you. |
#65
IP: 68.111.9.38
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Scrap it. It's done it's thing in life. The whole exhaust system needs to be rebuilt. Well maybe not the muffler.
But, before you scrap it go to a hardware store with the old hot section in hand and buy the necessary plumbing nipples (they're 1 1/4 inch) to build a new one. Black iron is preferred over galvanized because galvanize releases toxic zinc fumes when hot. TRUE GRIT Edit: The specific name is"the hot section". Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 08-30-2016 at 01:42 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to JOHN COOKSON For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (08-30-2016) |
#66
IP: 100.15.151.85
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Mike,
A couple of observations on rebuilding your exhaust hot section:
Here's a link to the photo album I made when I rebuilt my exhaust: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=73
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#67
IP: 206.125.176.3
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Quote:
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#68
IP: 68.6.228.138
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Thanks! all excellent points and guidance. I will take the old one with me to buy new parts. Ed, awesome photos.
I orderd parts from Moyer Marine this morning and already have shipment confirmation. -including the flange. Mine is pretty worn. I will take pictures along the way and post. |
#69
IP: 129.49.252.160
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Pressure gauge
Is the adapter or "t" fitting they sell with the gauge on amazon work with 5/16 hose. I noticed the o/d of the ends are 3/8. Just a 16 larger than the hose but want to make sure. Thanks
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#70
IP: 184.0.19.114
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Quote:
Yes, mine worked with 5/16 hose. PS - Just to keep us on-topic... Mike, please also heed Ed's advice to try and add more rise to the hot section IF possible.
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 Last edited by roadnsky; 08-31-2016 at 11:02 AM. Reason: add pic |
#71
IP: 68.6.228.138
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Would love to ad more rise, but have almost no room.
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#72
IP: 97.93.89.70
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ike, if you can't raise the "riser" part just lower the water injection point. My exhaust had to go down right from the manifold. My injection point is about 8 inches below the exit elbow. No problems!!!
Dave Neptune |
#73
IP: 68.6.228.138
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New exhaust hot section.
This is about the best I could do with the rise. I have very little vertical real estate, so I just copied the prior system for the most part. I placed the water coolant barb fitting lower in the exhaust.
Here are a few pictures. These show the old system, clogged portion, pipe nipple for coolant brazed into a 90 degree elbow. I ended up using galvanized because that was readily availabe at Home Depot. Also shown is the new assembled hot section that Bajahaha Jim assembled. I did help with the assembly - watched and drank Baja's beer! What are friends for? I'll put the flange and high temp wrap on tomorrow, install and fire up the system. Will let you know how it goes. Last edited by sandiegomike; 09-03-2016 at 12:46 AM. |
#74
IP: 24.152.132.65
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Please be advised the off gassing of the zinc galvanizing is toxic at a minimum, possibly even deadly in a confined space. Stay safe.
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#75
IP: 76.179.157.47
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Exhaust Exshmost - what's under the yellow covers in your shop?
__________________
Jeff S/V Bunny Planet 1971 Bristol 29 #169 |
Tags |
carburator, exhaust, fuel, gas, hot section |
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