I am hoping someone can help me with a new issue we are experiencing with our exhaust system. The article I saw on exhaust system blockage is probably dead on, but the other troubling part is just how do you get to the darned thing? In a 1973 Catalina 27, it looks as if the engine went in BEFORE the deck was put on. Zero clearance in engine compartment and tiny access panels that let you look or touch various parts, but not both. So, how do you get at the connection where dry meets wet? I have exhaust filling the engine compartment AND water flowing freely from behind engine into bilge only when we are moving. Lying in the slip with engine off, no water flows. Temperature is fine, so far, but now there's no water passing through stern exit. It was last week. I suppose if I strap on an air pack and crawl through starboard berth access port while engine is running, I might be able to confirm that aft end of exhaust system has been compromised, but not sure if I can reach it. Will I/Should I consider cutting another access point through the floor of the rear hatch, which I will then need to patch so cockpit drainage still flows out? Sorry for the length of message. Will pictures help?
Old Boat - New Problem Catalina 27 Exhaust
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Re engine access
I am with all of you on the limited access, but I recently read on another forum about some owners enlarging existing access ports and adding others in the port and starboard compartment sides. Personally I have considered (but not yet done) cutting an access hatch in the cockpit floor.
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Fwiw
I do not have an access problem as my engine cover is above the engine. When I remove it I have access "tightly around" the motor and clear above. I have had this boat for over 25 years and never had any trouble accessing what I need to get to. I have seen what "Hcrisp" has done with his cockpit floor and it looks to be very good access to the A-4. He had some pics posted you may want to look at. I have worked on these in many configurations and have found the way mine is set up, or access from the top to be the easiest for general maintenance and inspection.
Cutting into the boat anywhere structural integrity is something to consider. By the time you build a cover and deck for it to secure to the floor should be even stronger, not sure with "access ports" as it would depend on where and how the bulkhead is supported or fastened to the hull.
Dave Neptune
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Cockpit Hatch
Here are a few pics showing how I built the hatch in my Bristol 27 cockpit sole. I have many more pics than this if anyone would like a more in depth explanation.
This technique resulted in a very stong sole and a hatch you can jump on (which was the goal in the whole exercise) and great access to the engine. As Dave says top access is a wonderful thing.
Basically it went like this:
Cut out the opening, make a hatch coaming with a flange on the bottom. Introduce the coaming construction from under the deck. Screw, glue (5200) and glass the coaming to the sole, top and bottom. Do follow up FRP where necessary. Make hatch. Figure way to lock hatch in place.
I am more than happy to help anyone with a similar job on their boat.
Howardsigpic
S/V Swimmer
Bristol 27
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Howard, excellent pics to show that there is a little more involved than just cutting a hole in the cockpit sole.-Shawn
"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
sigpic
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Working on boats
Thanks, Shawn, and here's another showing what I used for core material. Caleb will recognize this stuff after his deck project - my favorite honeycomb. In this pic you can see that I built the hatch cover on the coaming assembly in the shop. Warning to others - don't use honeycomb for the sides of the hatch cover. Solid wood is a better choice. Hey, I tried.
Yes, there is a slight camber to the cover.
Howardsigpic
S/V Swimmer
Bristol 27
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Nice work Howard.
A removable cockpit sole is standard equipment on the Westsail 32, late model deck and it's Heaven. Here's a picture of mine with the true blue 4 cylinder Perkins underneath and a removable shelf over the back end of the engine. I could actually sit in the engine space and work.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Originally posted by hcrisp View PostDo you know of any Westsail 32's for sale?
If you ever consider one, talk to me first. There were variations in ballast over the production run, two deck configurations (old and new) and all bets are off with owner built boats as Westsail offered them in kit form. That may not be a dealbreaker however. To my knowledge the highest price ever paid (~ $90K) for a Westsail 32 was owner built and I'm talking actual selling price, not asking price. Was it worth it? I think so.
Engine choice is important too. My Catalina 30 is 30 feet on deck, 10'10" beam, 25' waterline and 10,500# displacement dry. My Westsail was 32 feet on deck, 11 foot beam, 27' waterline (comparable so far, yes?) and 24,000# displacement dry. Big honkin' difference. The most coveted engine in a W32 is a Perkins 4-108.
One last caution: don't be tempted by a Westsail 28. 'nuf said.
The discussion brings back great memories.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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[QUOTE I have seen a good number of home built, woodies, or "kit boats" with the same "option". QUOTE]
The MC qualifies in the home built, woodies area. I am constantly popping open the hatch to check/look at things while underway and when I pulled the A-4 for rebuilding she came straight up and out. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/al...pictureid=1097
Dan S/V Marian Claire
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