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  #1   IP: 74.179.163.243
Old 01-17-2011, 05:09 AM
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A4 for sale - complete

I just ran across this and thought that someone may be interested. Price seems at the high end but you never know: http://jacksonville.craigslist.org/boa/2164142332.html
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  #2   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 01-17-2011, 09:11 AM
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Butch - Very interesting offer. But let's be clear about raw water cooled engines. They are all to be considered suspect when placed on the used engine market. If anyone buys one it should be wth the understanding that it will have to be resleeved probably sooner rather than later. Meticulous and devoted maintenance and regular acid flushing and winterizing can prolong the agony but the end game is always the same. Caveat emptor. Hanley
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:39 AM
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This may be FWC-- "The ONLY thing wrong with this engine is a little bit of rust around the cover for the engine cooling." That could refer to a heat exchanger, or to the side plate. You'd have to ask to be sure.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:53 AM
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Believe me.......I know the pitfalls of used engines. LOL
My thought was with some negotiations you might get the price down low enough to be worth it because of all the upgraded parts........that is if you need parts.
Too bad they dont make spare motor compartments on sailboats.

I also saw one this am in the LA craigslist for $350.00.....complete. Thats more in line with sight unseen price for a used A4.

But your right Hanley.
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  #5   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 01-17-2011, 10:15 AM
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Butch - When on the road I carry just about everything possible - alternator, distributor, starter, carb, even a manifold...you get the idea. But I cannot carry an extra block nor am I prepared to pull an engine on the road (though I have known others to do it). There is no substitute for a FWC block known to be reliable. For this reason I strongly recommend the resleeving of a block in hand as opposed to the aquisition of another (in the bush, as it were). Hanley
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:21 AM
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Hanley, I read a previous article where you talked about re-sleeving cylinder bores in the block. I never knew it could be done until you mentioned it.

I have a spare engine down from the great lakes and am fortunate on that level.
That said, I think I would go the route you suggested and re-sleeve a block that is salvageable. At least then you know what you have.
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:56 AM
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Lightbulb

I have a buddy in the Navy stationed at NAS Jax..He is kind of a gear head too..I wonder if he'd make a trip down there to check it out?

So, Hanley, if you were to acquire a block and tear it down with the intention of rebuilding it as a spare engine, would your "SOP" be to re-sleeve unless it was in immaculate condition?
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:17 PM
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A few weeks back there was an early model A4 on EBAY pulled from a boat that looked in immaculate condition (green block) with all components.

There were a number of detailed photos of the engine...I was sorely tempted!

It went through two auctions with no bidders - someone finally got the thing for $375.00US (not me).
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:45 PM
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Shawn - If I acquired a block that had been antifreeze cooled all it's life and it looked good I might not resleeve it. I don't have the tools to test cylinder sleeve thickness but I'm sure it is possible to do so. The real question is how one uses the engine. The circumstances of a sailor who stays within a day or two of his home port are radically different from a cruiser who is 1000 miles from home. I saw a man living on his engineless boat in Charleston once (while he rebuilt the engine himself on board via dinghy): I don't ever want to go there. Hanley
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:55 PM
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At this point I must count my blessings -

My Columbia 34 was built in 1966 , my A4 in 1977 ; neither has seen salt water.

Laker
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:52 PM
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Laker - Don't get too comfortable. Water in the Great Lakes is not "fresh". You still have to consider other minerals and chemicals and pollutants and organisms. In addition any silt in the water constitutes a potential abrasive being constantly blasted at the "G" spot (the place between #2 and#3 that gets the direct incoming cooling water). If you do acid flushes each one is an incremental stripping away of the remaining sleeve material. Hanley, (paranoicus neanderthalicus)
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:19 PM
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Hanley, (paranoicus neanderthalicus)
This term may need to get added into the "Afourians" thread!
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:12 PM
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Hanley ,

I never heard of an acid flush 'till I joined this group , so I certainly haven't done one. Once out of the harbor we are in really clear water here , silt not an issue. My mill runs a tad cool , and although I have not pulled the cover off of the cooling jacket , my head areas look pretty good , so I'm not going to start flushing. For now , at least.

I choose to be passive in this area and hope (with reason , I think) for the best.
Wannareassemblus bedoneicus.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:08 AM
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Laker,

If my experience is any indicator, you are on the right path. The water in Lakes Michigan and Huron is not pure & distilled, but it is mighty fresh. After all, most cities near those Lakes use that water for drinking.

My A-4 also runs cool. But as part of my ordinary maintenance I pulled a thermostat from my Lake Huron / Michigan run Catalina 27 when I bought the thing. It had been in the block for ever and a day. It also had just a very little scale built up on it.

That scale is the calcium carbonate from the little critters that live in the water plus a tiny bit of inorganic mineral scale. That is what builds up in salt water motors too, but salt water motors get ALOT more.

If you ever do any maintenance on the cooling system, soaking it in vinegar for 12-24 hours will take that buildup right off without dissolving any significant amount of metal. Oh, and my thermostat? I reinstalled that same thermostat after cleaning it and used it for another three years : )

Good Luck,

Mike

Last edited by marthur; 01-23-2011 at 10:13 AM.
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:16 AM
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Soaking the cooling system in vinegar ...

And how does one go about doing that ? Reassemble all the plumbing , put intake hose into bucket of vinegar & hand crank , perhaps? Then displace the vinegar with antifreeze? It would give a good excuse to use my new hand crank , of which I am quite proud. I could also circulate some good , clean new oil at the same time , if in fact the oil pump functions at such low rpm.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:51 PM
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Welcome to the Forum

To get the most out of your request it should be posted in a new separate
thread of its own. Scroll down to the forum categories, i think you might
want to repost this thread in the rebuild/ overhaul section with its own new
thread that way it will get the attention of others who can answer your
questions best.

Regards,

Art
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:02 PM
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:07 PM
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  #17   IP: 71.168.64.77
Old 01-23-2011, 05:22 PM
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Double click the overhaul section and up in the top left section click
new thread after naming it.
Then you can post everything there again.
I am not sure how to move what you have already posted, so probably
easier to repost.

Regards

Art
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