An Impromptu Overhaul

[GregH]

well I have the engine out finally and just have to get it home. After figuring out how to get everything detached inside the boat, when it came time to lift it out, took maybe 10 minutes - phew!

I thought I would start a new thread here where I will post and ask a multitude of questions over the time of the overhaul. And a very warm thanks to all ahead of time!

Just to start things off... a few pics of the engine out ready for transport.


-no worries I slid the engine back so the oil drain fits in the "carefully calibrated" slot





I don't have a pic of it to share yet, but the crack in the oil pan goes ALL the way across the bottom transversely.

[hanleyclifford]

I remember the original thread on this engine; could be a real puzzler. A very late engine so may not have much loss in the water jacket (despite being RWC) unless there has been a freeze event other than the oil pan. You won't know until you get the block stripped and sent to the machine shop for cleaning and inspection. So far an oil pan is first on your shopping list. Moyer Marine has them but shipping and other expenses could be brutal - from any source in fact. Maybe you could collect it yourself? Alternatively, the oil pan is not a common rebuild requirement so you may be able to get one locally just for doing the removal. I have a few on hand but again, shipping costs would be high. In any event nothing should be done until the block has passed muster.

[GregH]

My thoughts are this at the moment - as you said get the pan off and have a good posting discussion on the merits of repair vs replacement (though I am starting now to look locally).

Before totally stripping and sending things off to the machine shop, would it be the correct next step to do some pressure testing? To see what we get for the cylinders and also the water jacket/manifold?

[hanleyclifford]

By all means if the engine is still assembled do a pressure test of the water jacket. The result of that test is the single most important piece of information you need. If it holds 20 psi you have a shot at not having to resleeve.

[chapster5]

Greg
I am about 1hr west of you, I seen on ad on Kijji - Ad ID 1049249143 that you may want to check out - this complete motor would be about 2 1/2 hrs west of you. Looks and sounds ( at least according to the ad ) like its ready to just drop in.

Not sure which way you want to go.

good luck, Chapster5

[GregH]

Thanks Chapster5 for the heads up!

Oakville isn't too far away considering and it's a nice looking engine. But I'm on the slow payment plan for the rebuild (now if he would sell me just the oil pan....)

[GregH]

Now is the time that I have to ask my first 'silly' question...

I understand the setup for pressure testing the manifold by itself, but I am not visualizing the block/full engine water jacket pressure test. I've done a lot of searches on here but not just getting it. With the late model engine do I plug/remove the hoses with respect to the thermostat or leave them as part of the pressure testing?

Is there a sticky? A good diagram/picture story?

[hanleyclifford]

I think the simplest approach is to leave the thermostat housing alone. Disconnect the water pump output hose at the pump; then cobble some sort of adapter from hose to pipe threads for either the gauge or the schraeder valve. The other end is the manifold out put which is 1/2" NPT if you take the fitting out; otherwise cobble another hose to pipe thread arrangement. Again, it doesn't matter which end is which. Once you install the gauge and valve the system should be tight and just pump up the valve with the bicycle pump.

[Whippet]

Block pressure test equipment



After many attempts at hunting down minor water-oil incursion, i got pretty experienced at doing these tests.

Here is one such set-up. (Note: this is one guys's approach at Rube Goldberg design -- based on what was laying around the garage). Unfortunately, only photo I have handy is manifold test. For block test, red hose inserts into t-stat housing outlet.

Standard bike pump was used with integrated pressure gauge. Challenge is to make sure test equipment is air tight where pump female meets the schrader valve - that is clamped into red hose. I dunked connection in bucket of water to make sure. Note the bic pen strategically inserted in other end of bike valve T-fitting (for presto valve) to plug off one such leak.

At the other end, hose from water pump outlet is plugged.

[ndutton]

For those not into 'cobbling', Home Depot carries a test gauge assembly complete with Schrader valve in their plumbing department (about $10):



Question on the test pressure: if you pump up to 20 lbs, it bleeds down to 10 lbs. over maybe a half hour then stays there rock steady for another 2 hours or more (mine held for a week), does that mean a failed test?

[hanleyclifford]

[ATTACH]10944[/ATTACH]

After many attempts at hunting down minor water-oil incursion, i got pretty experienced at doing these tests.

Here is one such set-up. Unfortunately, only photo I have handy is manifold test. For block test, red hose inserts into t-stat housing outlet.

Standard bike pump was used with integrated pressure gauge. Challenge is to make sure test equipment is air tight where pump female meets the schrader valve - that is clamped into red hose. I dunked connection in bucket of water to make sure. Note the bic pen strategically inserted in other end of bike valve T-fitting (for presto valve) to plug off one such leak.

At the other end, hose from water pump outlet is plugged.

Once the concept and engine plumbing are understood there are many ways of accomplishing this test depending on such things as access and tools available.

[GregH]

Morning Folks!

I had a look last eve at our local Home Depot for that item ndutton but alas they had no such beast (ever) - it must be a south of the border issue

So off I went to our Princess Auto and found the parts here and there to cobble together the system needed. Of course while there, the notes I had brought with me did not tell me the water hose ID. I guessed at 1/2" ID and of course they did not have that size hose barb... so it's off to Canadian Tire this morning before the family outing! (priorities don't ya know )

[GregH]

Does everyone, when putting the engine up on a stand to work on, have to re-jig the stand bracket to make the bolts fit? I've read this a few places on the net...so it must be true

[GregH]

step 1 of XXXXX - check

Got the engine home today and a little more de-greasing.


The sun came out and it was time to try the block pressure test! Of course the 1/2 coupler in the manifold I could not budge even after trying various penetrating compounds. The best stuff I have (ATF and acetone) of course is still at the boat (along with some other needed tools )

Step-daughter teen came out to see what was going on and was interested enough to come to the store with me for the right coupler and a chance to share some time and knowledge. Helped me get everything hooked up for the test. Sure hope she keeps coming back for more questions and helping hands!


The gauge is sitting pretty at 20PSI for a couple hours now. Will check again later.

Also since I was having trouble with the visualizing of the set up for the block pressure test; hope this helps someone else down the road -here is how I set up the schrader valve.


oh and before I get lamb-basted the wire hose clamps are what is on the engine right now and will be replaced. Since I did not have any proper hose clamps I used them and also added in a zip tie for the test... no worries, I know better

[hanleyclifford]

Nice work. I'm going to save those pictures for the next time the question arises. When you take the block to the machine shop tell them what you did and the result. They'll understand you cannot be bamboozled.