#76
IP: 192.186.122.174
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let me go dig through my pics .......
did some high contrast for it to show up better.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 11-05-2021 at 05:03 PM. |
#77
IP: 192.186.122.174
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good way to spend a Sunday afternoon!
Last edited by GregH; 11-08-2021 at 04:16 PM. |
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TimBSmith (11-08-2021) |
#78
IP: 192.186.122.174
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#79
IP: 24.255.49.12
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Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9omdlB4Fcrc&t=1503s
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Jim Zeller 1982 Catalina 30 Kelleys Island, Ohio |
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W2ET (02-28-2023) |
#80
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Would anyone have handy the Delco dist model number? I'm at work and forgot to bring it with me
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#81
IP: 174.89.9.127
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A few more pics along the journey. Almost there. 5 weeks barring any problems and on the boat it goes.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 03-22-2022 at 04:36 PM. Reason: speeling :) |
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TimBSmith (03-21-2022) |
#82
IP: 174.89.9.127
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 03-21-2022 at 07:52 PM. |
#84
IP: 174.89.9.127
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The pics are of the pipe going from the exhaust manifold to the standpipe. Only been in fresh water. Is there an obvious way to tell their condition that I'm unaware of?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#85
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Finally get to "Thatch" my engine (top pic)!
A smart modification that has helped with diagnosing my fuel problems in the past.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#86
IP: 69.250.111.245
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Nice on the thatch mod! I also like the cast fittings as opposed to machined..they should flow more water.
+1 on the mech fuel pump too...Lots less complications IMO as compared to the switches and stuff for the elec. pump. My boat came with a mech pump (I rebuilt) and I have had ZERO trouble with it. I plan to put a mech pump on my shop/play/backup motor.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 03-30-2022 at 09:26 PM. |
#87
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Thanks!
The mech fuel pump I figure is much simpler to deal with (like me!). I picked up the rebuild kit even though it was working fine before. Glad I did! Never realized how stiff the old diaphragm was until I got the new one speaking of electric fuel pump - where the ODS <?> would attach above the oil pressure adjust bolt - I have lost what was there to plug that - do you know?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#88
IP: 142.116.40.164
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For the oil pressure adjust bolt - I have not been able to find information on how far to thread/adjust it for initial setting after a rebuild. What have others done?
is it similar to the air valve on the carb? all the way in and 1-1/2 turns out? UPDATE: The answer is in the manual! Who woulda thought?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 04-14-2022 at 11:27 AM. |
#89
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Wiring things up for home test and tuning this weekend.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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chapster5 (04-14-2022), Easy Rider (04-14-2022), Surcouf (04-13-2022), thatch (04-13-2022), TimBSmith (04-15-2022) |
#90
IP: 174.89.9.127
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Turned over the engine for the first time.
Added oil Removed old plugs that were being used to keep dirt out Ran compression test (dry) Cylinder # 1 = 105 2= 95 3 = 105 4 = 111 So on Sat or Sun will get some gas, hook up hoses and standpipe and see what happens!
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 04-15-2022 at 03:11 PM. |
#91
IP: 174.89.9.127
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Fired up the engine today
- When you think you've placed the ignition wires in the correct order, check again. Then one more time. - water temp gauge not reading but not surprising as currently cannot run engine long enough for the water to get hot - small trickle of water from under the thermostat housing - engine seems to "idle" about 1200 rpm on the tach. Need to check settings on the tach - No oil pressure. - checked the sender and its resistance is correct at about 240ohms. - grounded the sending wire and the gauge pegs max. - took the sender out of the block and cranked the engine. Oil comes out .. blurb...blurb. not sure if supposed to spurt out with more pressure? - adjusted the oil regulator in more to see if any difference but nothing. Thoughts on the oil pressure ? - go get a mechanical gauge? - is it time to remove the oil pan and check for missing plugs?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (04-19-2022) |
#92
IP: 162.245.50.230
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Greg, get a cheap mechanical gage. Running for much time without oil pressure will kill the bearings. No oil pressure and it will be time to check for a "left out galley plug". An easy fix just a PIA to tear down to get to them. There is one under the valve train cover behind the valves on "some engines" so check there first.
Cranking the engine without the plugs should yield a bit of pressure that should show on the gage, if not get your wrenches back out. Dave Neptune |
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TimBSmith (04-19-2022) |
#93
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Quote:
Dropping the oil pan! Hoping I can leave it on the rolling cart and "just undo" the pan bolts (and 'flywheel'), then hoist the block high enough to check....
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 Last edited by GregH; 04-19-2022 at 09:03 AM. |
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TimBSmith (04-19-2022) |
#94
IP: 69.250.111.245
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Greg, I am kinda at the same stage in running my project engine to see if I need to do rings/replace the head gasket, etc. My mech gauge mounted on a short pipe in the oil pressure hole jumps all the way from zero to to pegged at 80 while cranking..i did the same, as you, removed and cranked, and I get oil to bloop out, but I have not tried to start yet, I was just checking compression. If you have oil pressure, I'd think you'd see oil bouncing around in the valve train (with the cover off) when running. Also when running, the gauge should level out (I'd hope!)
Also, if you have trouble idling down when tuning, try removing the PCV valve. I installed it the first summer I had the boat, but have since removed it and deal with the smoke on my old motor because I couldn't get it to idle reliably. It solves the smoke problem, but introduces other compromises to engine tune. Hopefully, with your rebuilt engine and correctly placed slash tube, you won't need the PCV valve? P.S.> I don't know what your plan is for cooling, but my plan is to have a 5 gal bucket and have it recirculate with maybe a garden hose feeding the bucket to cycle in some fresh water, and let it overflow down the driveway...haven't thought that far ahead yet. P.P.S > Going back and reviewing the spring pics, I like a lot of the mods you've done to the motor (Thatch, etc.) - I also like the studs in side and valve cover plates. Why not fabricate (or buy) the updated Moyer alternator bracket to spread the load on the side plate? That was the first place I found leaks on my original motor, and it was bad enough the PO had already upsized the bolt, exacerbating the issue. Lots easier to do in the driveway and never have to worry about it. I am also going to cut up one of my spare fuel pumps and remove the cup with the bale. I think you can tap directly into the top (middle) of the fuel pump then you only have the diaprahgm to worry about, and since we all (should be) running a better filter than the 'water bowl', it should be another good mod. Someone on here mentioned trying it years ago, but I haven't tested one myself yet. I want to chop up a crusty pump first...
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) Last edited by sastanley; 04-19-2022 at 04:18 PM. |
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TimBSmith (04-19-2022) |
#95
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Was able to delve into the oil plug situation a little last night. The results are below.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#96
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Quote:
I'll keep the PCV valve in mind down the road. The Distributor was set enough to run the engine, but it definitely was not adjusted for best idle yet and that could also be an issue with the RPMs I think. I am using a big rough tote for the water and the hose on just enough to keep the water level constant. Exhaust water just flows down the driveway. But I might try and recirculate it if it can help show the water temp gauge working. Hadn't thought about the alternator bracket honestly. I run a Racor filter for the fuel. I'll flush this out more when I have a break at work
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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sastanley (04-20-2022) |
#97
IP: 174.89.9.127
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Ok... of the three oil galley plugs, the one on the bottom of the block is, of course the one missed. I cannot find the missing plug anywhere in my rebuild area of course.
Can I use generic brass 1/8npt plugs? Such as from here?
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
#98
IP: 100.15.153.148
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Since this is an oil passage, brass is probably ok, but I would prefer to see bronze or stainless in a marine environment. Check McMaster-Carr. They have it in stainless.
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
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TimBSmith (04-21-2022) |
#99
IP: 142.116.40.164
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Quote:
Mc-C will not ship to me in Canada unless it is a bulk order. I'll look locally for Stainless.
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Greg 1975 Alberg 30 |
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TimBSmith (04-21-2022) |
#100
IP: 100.15.153.148
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These on Amazon, ships overnight!
https://www.amazon.com/Horiznext-Mal...s%2C68&sr=8-14 https://www.amazon.com/Internal-Hexa...s%2C68&sr=8-16
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
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