1958 Atomic4 Overhaul .5

[Ball Racing]

Large valve is intake.

[2dogsnight]

Aaaaaaaa......intake!!
thanks Daniel

[2dogsnight]

looking at Cabela's boat seats......going to the store this coming weekend to check them out.

[2dogsnight]

carburetor cleaned....probably will have to take it apart...but really, there is not much there...may have to get a gasket..

[sastanley]

2dogs...this is where you start your "Moyer list"...carb gasket, other gaskets you come across (head, manifold, etc.), and then get them all at once. It is amazing what Stephen and the crew can pack into a small box. My $170 worth of parts fit something about the size of a shoebox!

[2dogsnight]

Shawn....according to helpful Moyer Marine Associate, it will be prudent to get "gasket set" that has ALL Atomic gaskets...price is $80- So I am leaning this way at the moment. Since shipping is not cheap...I better think what else I need
Started marking wires and took off an alternator while "watering" bolts on starter and water jacket side plate with ATF.......unfortunately broke one bolt on water side plate already...so decided to take a break till tomorrow and resume after getting penetrating oil

[Al Schober]

As to the water jacket cover plate, I strongly recommend going to studs (into the block) and nuts (to secure the [new stainless?] cover plate). The perennial leak from that area will be gone! The last engine I did, I bought a 12" length of brass 5/16 all-thread at the hardware store & made the 8 studs from that. Secured into the block with JB Weld. Used stainless nuts - washers optional (not used).

[2dogsnight]

Al,
I was thinking that in that location, bolts must be prone to rust....so I am with you on replacing it with studs...wander if Home Depot will have brass threaded rod
Thank you for this idea!
Going to Home Depot tomorrow

Looking on line, Home depot has only Zinc plated or stainless threaded rods......can stainless steel rod be used??

[ndutton]

As long as you're building an order . . . .

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVWJ_14_557

The studs are actually stainless set screws with allen sockets in their ends. A big advantage to this kit is the ability to stabilize the studs with the allen wrench eliminating any future twisting of the threads in the block during tightening or loosening. Two of the studs are 1/4" longer to accommodate the alternator adjustment arm bracket for engines so equipped.

While you're at it, if your engine has the single hole alternator adjusting arm bracket there's an improved version that eliminates the levering action by spreading the load over two studs:

http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVEL_13_558

[2dogsnight]

Neil,
definitelly great ideas for improvement in that area, wander if I can build a list on Moyers website and save for future use....have to look into that.....I like use of Loctite over JBW....
Al's approach is for sure con$ervative in $$ area......and that is very important too
I was very bummed-out last night ( especially that I am pretty sure that more bolt brakage in that area will fallow)....so your ideas are very much appreciated ..Thank you both!!

[sastanley]

2dogs....you will have to decide the road you travel with regards to what you fabricate yourself, what you source locally and what you buy from Moyer. I try to patronize them whenever I can, but sometimes (i.e. a distributor cap or rotor) it is more cost effective me to stop at the local NAPA on the way home and pick one up. I can get impellers and a few gaskets & pencil zincs from my local marina..I have friends that work there, so I give them some of my $$ to keep them in business too.

Switching to studs in the side plate is a perfect example..if you want a tested, trick idea with all the parts ready to go, pick up the Moyer kit. I took an approach similar to Al's...except I used stainless bolts, chopped off their heads () and then cut them to the correct length, cleaned up the jagged edges and made studs. I think the recommended use of JB Weld in this case is because its thicker consistency in theory will fill more gaps (less chance of water leakage.) - Then I used brass nuts & washers.

As for shopping at the Moyer site, I browse their website, jot down my part numbers & quantity & price, and keep a running list in my boat 'notebook'. When it is time to order, I call Ken directly (using the parts phone # on the site) and we always have a nice chat. Ken is another invaluable behind-the-scenes resource in the Moyer arsenal. I always place all of my Moyer orders directly thru him rather than thru the site (that's how he gets paid too!) Just this last order, as I was explaining the current state of my engine, he reminded me of an additional gasket I'd need during re-assembly I might have otherwise forgotten. Incidentally, the part # thing is really just an exercise..Ken knows every part in the inventory, & in reality, I don't really have to bother remembering any part numbers anymore..

I think your plan to go with the gasket kit is probably a good one. Also, there are several gaskets I have several spares of. Water pump cover plate gaskets, carb gaskets (since we always seem to be tearing that apart), etc. Things that require periodic maintenance I think are a good idea to have extras on hand..that way you never have to wait if you have everything in your spares box.

{stepping off soap box now}
Have fun with the rebuild...and keep uploading those great pics & questions.

[2dogsnight]

Shawn,
"soap box" very informative I must say Home Depot didn't have any SS threaded rods in any thread size, brass nuts only to 1/4-20...although I did see it on line. Got some penetrating oil and I am working with it...don't feel any change on jacket water side plate bolts though.....Started making a list
Went Cabalas yesterday and got seats that will fit the boat ......went with ready to use product, rather to manufacture a bench....I like the pedestal (because leave lots of floor space). The pedestal little too tall...need to check for about 6" shorter model.

[Ball Racing]

You can cut down the pedestal post on that one.
A little work, but not bad.
Remove the plastic collar, cut some off
drill, re- tap the hole for the clamping bolt.

[2dogsnight]

yes, will have to cut it and re-tap it....this is the only length they have
Bad news on water jacket cover front - second bolt broken off.....none is giving in...they all are rusted in the block.....I am thinking that maybe it will be easier to get them out when heads are broken off - at least there will be an access to the threads - .....am I right?

[2dogsnight]

......taking carburator apart.....touched first screw with a screwdriver - head comes off like it was just sitting there and waiting to be touched
......I will take it to work to check thread size for replacement screw