stuck valves

[2dogsnight]

...by the way: called Ken at MM...got The Book and valve spring compressing tool .....I am going for checking the whole motor inside and out approach.....Ken said: it's easy

[lat 64]

No sence in running both 6 & 12V. If you keep the engine at 6V the lightbulbs are still available, however the radio would be the problem. It may wind up being cheaper to convert to 12V, as the radio does present a charging issue and an extra battery system. Basically just the coil, condenser,starter and alternator is all that is needed. These are thingsyou may need to give attention to anyway. Perhaps a small "dashboard type" solar panel would handle a dedicated 12V battery forthe radio. A small lawn tractor or jet ski 12V battery would be plenty of battery and a small panel would keep it charged just fine

Dave Neptune

Could 2dogs just have two 6-volt batteries and make a series circuit on the panel off in a isolated corner to run any newer 12-volt accessories?

just a thought,
Russ

[2dogsnight]

Russ........I have no idea,
but I have no problem have two batteries 6 and 12V.....boat is on trailer so I will be trickle charging them anyway.

...joined woodenboatforum.....those guys are really serious wooden boat builders !!! OMG!!!
...as I am working on the motor I am thinking already how to fix this nasty crack by 3 bolts there ...

[Al Schober]

...as I am working on the motor I am thinking already how to fix this nasty crack by 3 bolts there ...

What crack? Which 3 bolts? Is this in the engine, the boat, or the trailer? We need another picture: now that we have the size thing working, let's see if you can add an arrow to your photo...
Best..

[2dogsnight]

here is the arrow

[hanleyclifford]

Looks like a job for West System. You may have mixed metals in that skeg. First thing get those bolts out for a look see. Might have to shove the boat aft a little to get everything off that roller. I don't like all that weight on the skeg that far aft.

[ndutton]

I agree with Hanley and will say it a little stronger. There's no way the weight of the boat should bear on that unsupported member. Unless the trailer supports are configured differently the damage will return. No point in fixing the damage without fixing the root cause too.

[2dogsnight]

thank you for the diagnose, I was wandering what was the reason for the wood to crack like that.....not sure what you mean by: mix metals
don't have picture of the whole trailer support...here is one with some view:

[Ball Racing]

That boat has age on it, so back in the day galvanized bolts were used alot,
and once the zinc leaves them they can bulge from rust, and crack that skeg.
The skeg is very thin in that area, and could have also had "checking" there in the wood while being built, then repeat wet dry cycles and the force of a bolt maybe snuged too tight and it can crack.

As for the weight on that roller, If you see all the other keel rollers and bunk area, that last rollers is more of a guide for getting the boat on the trailer than anything,
My boat is almost built the same, and I have very similar keel rollers on the trailer.
There probably ain't even 40lbs on that roller.

I would remove the bolts, remove the shoe iron, and take a old hand saw or a hacksaw and run it thru the split to clean it. Or even take a wedge and drive in it to open it further to give some view into the crack.
Then you can also remove a slice of bad wood out, and scarf in a new piece with west system and use silicon bronze fasteners or the best grade stainless you can afford.

I am doubtful that that injury has anything to do with where it's sitting on that roller.

[ndutton]

With the strake totally unsupported in the area of the roller, ANY weight there and you're asking for it.

I'd raise the aft bunks so there's zero weight on the roller and opt for side rollers at the chines as guides instead (but that's only what I would do).

[Ball Racing]

Sounds good.
Also we don't know how much weight is on the rollers at present.

[hanleyclifford]

In selecting new fasteners I would first determine exactly what metal that shoe is made of and replace the bolts with that same metal, whatever it proves to be.

[Ball Racing]

Another thing I would do is get a longer shoe iron going to the rudder, and basically cut off the split area.
It's too close to the prop, just going to make bad water eddies.

[Ball Racing]

Top Picture my boat.
Also there are struts that have a leg that supports that dead wood (bottom picture) I found this shot on the web somewhere.

[2dogsnight]

the aft bunks are very wide and most likely take the bulk the weight off the roller....now the material that covers the bunks is old and some bunks are not doing what they supposed to do...due to age if the trailer.....that will be corrected .....
This is a boat load of great information’s...thank you so much everyone!!!
Still chewing on all of it and enjoying it immensely

Wojo