#26
IP: 155.186.122.195
|
|||
|
|||
No issues with the stabilizer just stay within recommended dosage.
There has to be a gap or an imperfection between the cover and the hole. A careful visual inspection and feel may yield something. Don't use silicone based sealants on old oily cast iron as it will not "stick". Use something sticky like Permatex #2/ Check to see how the plate "seats" on the hole flange once cleaned. It should not rock around and the plate should cover the entire "hole". Look for a chip in the block side or a warped cover from overtightening possibly. Dave Neptune |
The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post: | ||
Rando1201 (01-13-2021) |
#27
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#28
IP: 107.77.230.191
|
||||
|
||||
Hey guys I removed oil I still have blue smoke i did see some smoke coming out of the reversing gear and the oil smells pretty gassy
|
#29
IP: 155.186.122.195
|
|||
|
|||
You probably got some fuel to puddle on the pistons when the float was sticking. That fuel will run past the rings and join the oil. How much did the oil go up? And a little fuel mixed with the oil will smell for quite a while.
Might just change out the oil for piece of mind then run her for a bit. You may need to set the timing after playing with the distributor. To much advance in the timing can cause additional blow-by and smoking. And be sure the c-advance is functioning first then set the timing. Dave Neptune |
The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-13-2021) |
#30
IP: 107.77.230.191
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Gotchya. Ok I just changed the oil. Still same issue. Still a little slick. I did remember that when I originally replaced that plate I took the push rod out. Then later I reinstalled the pushrod . There was a little damage on the plate where the dimple is on the plate. . I'll start checking the others you have listed. I also noticed, just by luck that the exhaust seems to have a pinhole leak. A little piece of debris on the exhaust started moving when the boat was running |
#31
IP: 165.225.20.191
|
||||
|
||||
Every few months, somebody does it... and I fill less stupid once put back in the right order, it purrs like a kitten, and the anger of having been stupid is challenged by the profound pleasure of the new, joyful, smooth, and stable low rpm running ! enjoy!
__________________
Surcouf A nostalgic PO - Previously "Almost There" - Catalina 27 (1979) |
#32
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Well, I goofed this one up. I reset the timing, added MMO to the cylinders, boat won't start.
|
#33
IP: 138.207.177.95
|
||||
|
||||
You violated 2 Prime Directives:
1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 2. Don't fix 2 things at once. Assuming you didn't do some third unknown thing, either the timing is too far off to even start or the plugs are too oil-fouled to fire. Or both. |
#34
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Yep. I gotta slow down. One little engine...
|
#35
IP: 155.186.122.195
|
|||
|
|||
How did you reset the timing? Very small movements at a time!
The MMO will burn off and the plugs may be fouled. No start = start from scratch. Check for spark Check for fuel Compression probably still fine Did you try using "motor crack" (start fluid)? Dave Neptune |
#36
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#37
IP: 155.186.122.195
|
|||
|
|||
The "continuity" method of setting timing won't work with most EI's. And with the power left on there is a good chance you fried another coil. They can't be left "on" long without running as they will overheat internally and open a winding!
Try this, get #1 on the compression stroke and as close to TDC as you can get it . Now be sure the distributor is loose enough you can twist it by hand with little force. Now remove the cap and check to see that the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug wire lug on the distributor. Adjust the rotation accordingly to line them up. And again be sure that the wires are in order and going to the correct plug. Now it is time to try and start. Be sure the idle screw is about 1 3/4 turns off the seat, which would be a bit rich an a good carb and an easier start. Now spray a bit of motor crack in the throat of the carb and hit the key. If it starts let it warm a bit or give the distributor a twist first of about 1/4" (not much) either way if it improves try a bit more or if it's worse try the other way. Just get it to run for a bit so it's warmed up. NOTE the distributor rotated at 1/2 speed so a 5* on the distributor is 10* of timing, so small twists! Once warmed you can power time the engine or go through the process of setting a timing mark up your self, many of us have and most have not. Dave Neptune |
#38
IP: 155.186.122.195
|
|||
|
|||
If you are unsure of power timing send me a PM and I will try to talk you through it.
Dave Neptune |
#39
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Ok the power wasn't left on, it was only on while I was using the tester. About the coil, I did swap it out for one that requires a resistor, which I wired red from the distributor. I had a timing mark when I did this initially in my garage. Funny that the continuity method worked when I did this last april in my grage. but im gonna go back there tonight, and do it all over again. I messed something up. |
#40
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Dave, Ill do it. I totally understand the concept. One thing I haven't told you is that when I initially got the motor I had my fiance cut out an exhaust gasket. Well she got frustrated, never finished it out. so i installed the gasket with out the hole in it. Forgot about it for about a month, in that months time. I did everything to get it running in my garage. Timing was one of those things that I must of done 5 times or more.
|
#41
IP: 107.77.230.229
|
||||
|
||||
Now the plugs are getting soaked. Is there anyway to burn off the mmo?
|
#42
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Alright so I went and reset the timing. Took me three tries. There's still some smoke, but much less at idle and I'm mainly only seeing it when I put a load on it in gear.
|
#43
IP: 174.30.210.166
|
||||
|
||||
For future viewers of this thread, here is a diagram...
__________________
-Jerry 'Lone Ranger' 1978 RANGER 30 |
#44
IP: 138.207.177.95
|
||||
|
||||
Don't worry about it for now. The engine just might burn a little oil or it may all burn off.
|
#45
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Ok went down there today. Used the permatex #2 , almost fixed the leak. Also fixed my oil pressure adjustment valve. The engine seems pretty dialed. I ran the boat through out the harbor. Did big 360s used reverse. Tested doing bursts of throttle. At first I thought the engine had no power . I was kinda bummed, but now I am very very happy. Every thing is so smooth I mean its seamless from idle to gear. No bogging or lagging in the throttle acceleration. I think I may have a small exhaust leak or intake leak. I hear a very very slight hissing.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Rando1201 For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (01-16-2021) |
#46
IP: 69.250.109.188
|
|||
|
|||
So is the push rod still in there?
|
#47
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
#48
IP: 138.207.177.95
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#49
IP: 38.27.109.137
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Bill |
#50
IP: 45.48.80.165
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
New Atomic owner with problems | filbert99 | Troubleshooting | 5 | 07-21-2015 02:14 AM |