Rear shaft oil seal replacement

[Gari]

New to this business of "posting threads" so. Used to just call Don and ask my questions.

I have been reading the posts re. direct drive problems and have a couple of my own. One may have already been answered by these posts - slippage in forward without ability to adjust it out. Possibly a shaft/key problem. When I go after issue 2 I will be able to determine that.

Issue 2 is that my rear seal is throwing oil badly. Question; when I remove the rear bearing housing to replace the seal (and possibly the bearing), can I then remove the direct drive shaft?

I have all of Don's Newsletters and his selected letters making up his 'overhaul manual' and they indicate that I must remove the three fingers of the pressure plate. What about the cross shaft and yoke??

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and help.

[yeahjohn]

I'll try to help as best as possible. You will need to pull your reversing gear completely out to remove the tail shaft. That means removing the entire rear housing. The hardest part of the job is pressing the cupling on after taking it off. It seems you are going down the right path, just plan on removing the entire rear housing and pulling the reversing gear to inspect it and fix as needed. I think we must be getting to a critical time in the reversing gear life cycle. I have seen tons of these post as of late.

[Gari]

Thanks muchly for the info. Perhaps you are correct in that some of thexe parts are nearing their end-of- (useful)life. Looks like a major project but with a Tartan 30 the engine is mid-ship making accessibility not so much a problem. And if what you suggest is what I must do, I will.

However, should I just conclude that the complete housing needs to be removed, or should, and can, I remove just the rear coupling and bearing plate to examine the tail end of the shaft first?? That way if the shaft/keyway/key are OK I can replace the oil seal then go on to look for the slipping issue.

The slipping has been going on for several years but getting worse. Let me describe it: Reverse always behaves in a normal way. Going forward it is necessary to idle the engine down as low as possible then slowly bring the rpm back up. Sometimes it catches on the first or second try - other times it requires several tries. Once engaged it doesn't slip even under high power in rough seas. The adjustment ring (screw collar) is within one notch of being so tight it cannot get into the détente.

I have always assumed that it was the clutch plates causing the slippage but reading these posts about damaged Woodworth keys and broken tail shafts makes me wonder. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

[hanleyclifford]

Most likely it is the clutch plates. If the key or shaft were bad you'd have no forward. A question has been raised on the Forum about certain oils contributing to slippage; can you say what type of oil you are using?

[Gari]

Yes, I have always thought it to be the clutch plates. I have been using 10W-30 detergent oil with the addition of one cup of Marvel Mystery oil.

Reading Don's newsletters - overhaul sections- I am concerned about removing the reversing gear housing because the engine will remain on its' mounts and I will not be able to replace the oil pan gaskets if they become damaged. Is it possible to remove the reversing gear, with the housing still attached to the block, by removing the cross shaft and taking it out the top opening or the end opening?
Thanks for you help.

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by Gari

Yes, I have always thought it to be the clutch plates. I have been using 10W-30 detergent oil with the addition of one cup of Marvel Mystery oil.

Reading Don's newsletters - overhaul sections- I am concerned about removing the reversing gear housing because the engine will remain on its' mounts and I will not be able to replace the oil pan gaskets if they become damaged. Is it possible to remove the reversing gear, with the housing still attached to the block, by removing the cross shaft and taking it out the top opening or the end opening?
Thanks for you help.

That is not possible; however, you should not worry about the oil pan gasket. You can cut it with a single edge razor blade and butt in an aft section. The problem will be replacing the plates. I don't believe they are available from Moyer Marine. I have a couple of sets (used) that I believe to be good if it comes to that. There may be a source for new ones but I don't know it. If you have reached the point where you cannot adjust the pack it is a good idea to take the thing apart for a look-see and post us some pix.