Unpleasant Surprises while Winterizing

[RogerW]

Hi All-

I'm looking for several pieces of advice after (trying to) winterizing my A4 for the first time. Here's the details ...

We purchased our 1978 Pearson 31 w/ late model A4 in the spring of 2010
We had the marina winterize the engine at the end of 2010
We decided to winterize the engine ourselves this year after getting last year's bill!

While following Moyer Marine's winterizing instructions i found-
a) the drain plug for the exhaust manifold had been stripped out and was jammed (barely) in place.
b) The thermostat was never removed to winterize the engine based on the thermostat housing being very rusted in place.

I proceeded to winterize the engine by clamping off (as best I could) the bypass tube and running the engine long enough to suck in 1.5 gallons of -100F antifreeze and watch some of it come out the exhaust.I also removed the temperature sensor and poured more antifreeze into the block via funnel & tube.

Questions-
1) When the drain plugs are removed, what percentage of coolant in the engines water jacket drains out?
2) What is the total volume of coolant held in the engines water jacket?
3) Is there a way to verify sufficient antifreeze has been forced into the engine? We sail on Lake Champlain in Vermont (very cold winters).
4) can the drain hole in the exhaust manifold be repaired in place? Is drilling and tapping my only option?
5) Any tricks to getting the thermostat housing off?

Thanks!

[edwardc]

We purchased our 1978 Pearson 31 w/ late model A4 in the spring of 2010

Congratulations! Great choice! But as a Pearson owner, I'm somewhat biased!
We bought our Pearson in the fall of 2009, and really enjoy her.

Questions-
...
3) Is there a way to verify sufficient antifreeze has been forced into the engine? We sail on Lake Champlain in Vermont (very cold winters).
...

If you have the bypass hose completely clamped off, the coolant has to flow through the block to get to the manifold and exhaust. So if you're seeing coolant out the exhaust, you should be good to go.

The best way I've found to clamp off the bypass hose is to use two thin strips of wood (popsicle sticks or tongue depressors) to protect the hose while clamping it with a vise-grip. A little tape can be used to hold the sticks in place on the jaws of the vise-grips. It's not necessary to 'kill' the hose, just use enough force to collapse it when the pliers lock.

[CalebD]

T-stat

As for getting a rusted thermostat (T-stat) housing to come off:
- soak it with PB Blaster (for as many consecutive days as it takes)
- gentle tapping
- remove as much excess rust from intersection of T-stat cover and block so PB Blaster (or similar product) can get in there

Persistence is likely the key.

[wmmulvey]

Re: Winterizing

Roger

To make it easier, rather than clamping the hose, I bought tee and valve and connected it to the thermostat hose and to the inlet to the block.

When using in the summer I open the valve so the raw water flows thru the thermostat.

When winterizing I close the valve so the anti-freeze flows thru the block.

I also remove the exhaust house and replace it with a much longer hose (just for winterizing) and place it in a 5 gal bucket.

I remove the thermostat and make sure there is anti-freeze showing.

I soak the thermostat in vinager for a few days and clean it out.

I have a tee and a valve in place with the raw water inlet. One hose connects to the water pump and the other hose end has a filter on it and is just left in the engine compartment and is long enough to reach the bilge and into a anti-freeze container or bucket. Normal operation the valve is opened to the water pump.

With this set-up the opened ended hose serves as a safty bilge pump in case of an emergency

With the water pump, I remove the impeller to inspect it and leave it out to keep the shape .

Bill
ESPA
1969 Morgan 30

[Mark S]

I proceeded to winterize the engine by clamping off (as best I could) the bypass tube and running the engine long enough to suck in 1.5 gallons of -100F antifreeze and watch some of it come out the exhaust.

This is the same way I winterize our late model A4 only I overdo the -100 and put 5 gallons through on the theory that after 5 gallons go through there will be little water left to dilute the -100.

I have the by-pass valve now but before installing it I clamped the by-pass hose with a vice grip which worked just fine. The by-pass valve is useful to help control temperature during hard running and I think many of us would recommend installing it for just that reason. It's also good to have if your thermostat is single action.

Mark S

[smosher]

I have the bypass with no thermostat and Its closed when I winterize. I have a T in the intake and usually antifreeze starts to come out before 1 gallon is sucked in but I put another gallon through it just to flush out all the water.

[sastanley]

The best way I've found to clamp off the bypass hose is to use two thin strips of wood (popsicle sticks or tongue depressors) to protect the hose while clamping it with a vise-grip. A little tape can be used to hold the sticks in place on the jaws of the vise-grips. It's not necessary to 'kill' the hose, just use enough force to collapse it when the pliers lock.

Ed, that is a great tid-bit! I have a ball valve there, but I always wondered about the damage to the hose when using a pair of vise-grips.

We do the same thing to take the load off of a 155 lbs. centerboard line on a Lightning for trailering...we use either a vise-grip or C-Clamp, but there is always some wood in the middle to avoid damage to the SS board. That way the clamps hold it with the wood as a cushion, and the line/tackle doesn't hold any load over the bumps on the road. The vise-grips lay on top of the centerboard trunk.


In hindsight, an obvious cross-over use clamping the A4 hose, but it didn't occur to me until now.