#1
IP: 71.71.116.117
|
|||
|
|||
Head portlight seal
What can I use to replace the worn seal on the opening portlight in the head? I thought I'd read to use stuff box packing but the 1/4" packing wasn't deep enough to contact the portlight frame.
__________________
Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#2
IP: 108.41.13.166
|
|||
|
|||
I replaced mine. I think I got a new black square rubber gasket from car McMaster. Worked perfect. Hasn't leveled yet. I'll try and find the link.
|
#3
IP: 108.41.13.166
|
|||
|
|||
Found it. The product I used on my 73 p30 head window.
# 9700k14. It a square-profile oil resistant buns-n o-ring cord stock https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3556/=1928yon That link should bring you to the page were all of the gaskets or located. I used the 1/4 inch stock. Item number above. |
The Following User Says Thank You to azazzera For This Useful Post: | ||
alcodiesel (08-23-2017) |
#4
IP: 174.192.18.215
|
|||
|
|||
If you don't want to wait, here's a method I used about 10 years ago that's held up very well:
1. Get a tube of sealant ($10). Life-Caulk or Life-Seal work well. DON'T use 5200! 2. Remove the old gasket, and clean out the groove. 3. Carefully fill the groove with sealant. 4. Level off the sealant with a putty knife. 5. Leave the port open while the sealant cures - 24 hrs or so. 6. When you close the port, don't dog it down hard. Only a half turn is necessary for a good seal. |
#5
IP: 71.71.116.117
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#6
IP: 174.192.28.21
|
|||
|
|||
1. Where is this gap - top (hinge area) or bottom?
2. Try dogging down the port until you can see no light. The sealant is soft and will easily deform to fit. Over time, the knife edge has depressed the seal in mine about 1/4" 3. Are you sure those are set screws? I don't have mine in front of me, but I believe each hinge is held in place with a roll pin, which with a cursory look appear to be setscrews. If they are roll pins, there is no adjustment - to remove the port light, drive out the pins with an appropriate sized drift, or a finish nail. 4. Can you post pictures? |
#7
IP: 108.41.13.166
|
|||
|
|||
Rockhopper : yes those are set screws. Mine are exactly the same. You can adjust both top and bottom pressure around the window. Did you look at the link for the gasket? I think I picked mine up for a little over 3$ plus shipping of course. To my way of thinking I would think you would want the gasket material to stand a bit proud of the window.
Last edited by azazzera; 08-27-2017 at 05:47 PM. |
#8
IP: 71.71.116.117
|
|||
|
|||
I was thinking they were set screws because the right one was turned out further and there was a gap of about a 1/16" or so on the top part of the gasket. Azazzera, yes I seen the gasket and will probably order some so long as shipping isn't too high. I'm away from the boat or I'd get some pictures.
__________________
Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#9
IP: 71.178.87.206
|
||||
|
||||
Chris, All great questions, dude. I will just comment on old boats like ours we always need to improvise...do not be surprised if there is no "quick fix" or answer to "is this how they designed it in 197x"? I am just bracing you for the inevitable that there are a lot of things we all know how to do better than when our boats were built..with the help of this forum and other friends, I've learned to think way out of the box. I am a IT guy by profession, but now I am also an amateur boat builder!!!
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
The Following User Says Thank You to sastanley For This Useful Post: | ||
Administrator (08-28-2017) |
#10
IP: 174.193.155.203
|
|||
|
|||
Shawn, yeah I'm beginning to get that sense. I'm just trying to get a feel for what others have done, I'm somewhat ocd so I try to do it "right" the first time but as being an older boat I can see there will be a lot of ways to do things "right". Again I really appreciate all of the help and advice.
Been on a search trying to find boat slips that don't want your first born.
__________________
Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina |
#11
IP: 174.193.143.129
|
|||
|
|||
Just got back down to my boat and now I see what the problem is. One adjustment screw is missing completely plus someone stripped the hole out. What are my options here? Get a tap and tap it to the next size up and get some set screws from eBay?
__________________
Chris 1973 Pearson 30 #411 Trinity, North Carolina Last edited by rockhopper; 09-03-2017 at 05:46 PM. |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Holes in the Head | peterw | Overhaul | 6 | 09-17-2012 02:25 PM |
Head Removal Due to Power Loss | Bruce A | Troubleshooting | 58 | 07-18-2012 11:10 AM |
OEM Head vs Aftermarket Head | edwardc | General Maintenance | 2 | 04-08-2010 04:34 PM |
Raw water cooling pump - removing inner seal | domagami | Cooling System | 14 | 01-28-2008 02:52 PM |
additional persuasion to remove studs | skhorleb | Overhaul | 3 | 03-12-2007 04:40 PM |