water pump seal replacement

[sailhog]

Howdy-ho! I'm rebuilding the flange MMI raw water pump. However, I'm not entirely clear on the instructions. Does anyone know which way to insert the new seals? For the impeller side seal, the directions say to "position it over the seal recess, so that the side with the spring visible faces the impeller chamber."

I'm guessing this means to have the part lettering facing away from the impeller chamber.

For the oil seal, the directions say: "install oil seal with the small coil spring on the lip of the seal facing downward."

I'm not sure what the "small coil spring on the lip of the seal" is. I'm guessing this means the lettering is facing the flange?

My best guess is that the lettering on both seals faces the flange side of the pump.... Anyone know for sure?

Thanks, everyone!

[Mo]

Sailhog,
If you look closely at a seal... take a second to look at the rubber ring. Without prying it look closely at the sealing lip and there is a spring there that goes around and helps it hold it's shape and contour....when they talk about a spring in the seal itself that's it. It holds the seal tight in over a shaft. I've never done one of those but should be very easy to see.....but the ring is in the rubber.

[tenders]

On the older model of pump, the letters embossed on the seals should be installed so that they FACE EACH OTHER in the pump. The UNEMBOSSED side of the seals is the side that faces the liquid being sealed.

Press them in with the largest socket that will fit on the seal. DO NOT USE ANYTHING SMALLER or the seal will get munged. I know this because I stupidly tried to do this with a quarter (ie, 0.25 piece) two days ago and it didn't work.

[sailhog]

Mo and Tenders: Thanks, gentlemen! Got the new seals installed and the pump is working without leaking! Hee-haw!

[JOHN COOKSON]

Put the new seals in the freezer for awhile then carry to the work area between a couple of cakes of frozen blue ice. It makes it easier to get them started squarely.

TRUE GRIT

[Mo]

Good tip John...I get ya...contract the metal ever so slightly...smart.

[sailhog]

So you're trying to contract the rings in the seals?

[Mo]

Sailhog,
It's the principle of metal contracting when cooled...if you were having trouble getting a rusty nut off you would heat it. I think John is refering to the metal casing holding the seal...they are a tight fit but if cooled slide just that little bit easier.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Sailhog,
It's the principle of metal contracting when cooled...if you were having trouble getting a rusty nut off you would heat it. I think John is refering to the metal casing holding the seal...they are a tight fit but if cooled slide just that little bit easier.

Correct.
Put the seal(s) in the freezer. Leave the pump body at room temp. You only get two or three whacks before they warm up but by then they are started square and it's easy to press or hammer them in straight. As I remember it's a 13/16" socket?

TRUE GRIT

[Mo]

John, I will remember that next time I putting a seal in. Just a couple of weeks ago had a hell of a time starting the pinion seal in my truck. Dana 60 front diff in that and a large seal...my biggest socket wasn't even close. I ended up laying it in place and using a piece of flat bar to start it...then I was able to tap it in easily. Could have used the ice trick on that. I read that on here once before but didn't remember it.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Mo
I turned the freezer control to as cold as it would go for a few hours before I put the seals in it to "chill out".

TRUE GRIT

[edwardc]

Our yard uses a cooler with dry ice in it to cool cutless bearings to make them easier to insert. I imagine that would work for seals too.

Just don't touch it with bare fingers!

[sailhog]

Just don't touch it with bare fingers!

I just touched it with my tongue. Now what do I do?

[tenders]

No worries, Don Moyer will presently offer a custom tongue-removing tool.

[2dogsnight]

Sailhog,
do you have any pictures of your water pump rebuild....