Making Spark Plug wire set

[seapadrik]

Has anyone ever made their own for the atomic 4 ? I have in the past purchased some from this very site and of course they are fine, but I have been thinking of making my own set with custom colors ( red/yellow, etc...)

However, I have never fashioned a spark plug set before. Are their kits optimized for a4 that I can just choose the wire color ? What about the boots and the crimps ? Connectors based on Distributor type ?

My preliminary research ( aka google ) tells me there are considerations for RadioFrequency, Heat, Crimping tool, Marine wire ? etc...

Any advice would be great. This is a project I am interested in trying.

Thanks

[Mo]

First off know that electrical is not my strong suit but I made spark plug wires when I first got the boat. At the time had been working through a manifold and top end valve issues and finally got it running. I found those wires lasted less than a year (used the boat 1 month in 2007) and mid season 2008 bought the set for the A4...I've replaced spark plug wires once since then just as a maintenance item. The plug wires I made up were not as good but then again that could have been shoddy workmanship on my part.

[Dave Neptune]

I have made many sets over the years and they do work. The down side is the manufacturer has the good equipment and you'll be doing them by hand. "Solid" wires are no real problem but the "cored" or suppression style we use are a bit more work. You should not skrimp on the tools!!!! The suppression type are a powdered wire in a core of sorts and the fiddling around twisting on the boots and getting a good crimp often "breaks the core creating gaps. The wires will work fine for a bit then the gaps get worse and build resistance, then they are toasted.

There are performance shops that will do custom sets to your specs. Most are good but still not factory quality!

Personally I'd find a color set I like and be done with it!

Dave Neptune

[sastanley]

What Dave Neptune said...your own wires will not last. Make nice labels for them instead of building your own of different colors. When I was a kid, I was cheap and the "MAKE YOUR OWN" kit at the Hi-Gear (local auto boutique of the time) was cheaper than good wires the right length with properly crimped connections. They were awful and I ended up buying the good ones too.

More recently, I had to get a longer wire for the run to my coil, as I've removed it from the motor and mounted it on a bulkhead. The Moyer cable was a tad short. I went to NAPA with my MMI wire and I said, "I need these style boots/ends but a little longer.." I think it cost me about $7.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I've never made a spark plug wire but I've repaired one once.
The metal clip that attaches the wire to the spark plug broke plug on my #1 spark plug wire.
Easy I thought. I'll just take the wire to an auto parts store and get a replacement. No such luck. Nobody had one long enough (or so they said!). Wasted all afternoon running around. The 4th store said he didn't have the wire that I needed but he did have a replacement clip. I never knew such a thing existed. He showed me how to pull the boot back and crimp the clip to the wire.
It worked great. Many, many years later it's still going strong. I went back to the same store and bought three more clips. I keep them on the boat in case I ever need them.

TRUE GRIT

[hanleyclifford]

I bought the Accel kit (bright yellow wire) from AutoZone which had the terminals and boots. I still had to use the distributor boots from the old set but the wires I made 4 years ago are still running perfect. The kit actually included enough to do at least 2 Atomic 4 sets. No special tools were needed.

[joe_db]

I used a piece of 12 gauge wire once as an emergency replacement. Note to self- the insulation is not that good for 20,000 volts. Do not grab wire while engine is running.

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by joe_db

I used a piece of 12 gauge wire once as an emergency replacement. Note to self- the insulation is not that good for 20,000 volts. Do not grab wire while engine is running.

Heh heh; I'll bet that got your attention in a hurry.

[seapadrik]

Thanks everyone for the comments. So the consensus seems to be to buy rather than make. Maybe I am overthinking this. Since my introduction to all things boat, it seems that every last part is special for the marine use so i just figured there was special wire for a boating application.

However, based on you finding these at NAPA it would seem a spark plug wire is a spark plug wire.

Am I right in thinking I at least need to know my distributor type when purchasing to get the boots to fit right ?

[joe_db]

The A4 uses the "standard" type of wires that would fit most cars from the 1950s-1970s. This would have been a no-brainer in decades past, but so many cars now have coil-on-plug the younguns behind the counter may be utterly mystified. It helps to go to a store that deals with hot rods and old muscle cars that use old fashioned ignition systems. Our local Western Auto guy knows all the parts that fit A4s in his store
You can buy the wire set for a 4 cylinder Mercruiser inboard and it will work or something like a 4 cylinder Chevy Vega. Actually, if memory serves, the Vega points and condensor fit too if you have the Delco distributor.

OR
...WAIT FOR IT.........................
..................................................

The host of this very forum will sell you a good wire set that fits the A4

[JOHN COOKSON]

Originally Posted by seapadrik

However, based on you finding these at NAPA it would seem a spark plug wire is a spark plug wire.

Well yes and no.

The graphite or powdered core spark plug wires are no good around the boat. They'll only last two or three years. My boat came with powder core wires when it was new. They lasted a little over three years before they started shorting out and basically not working. I could see the arcing at night and hear the high voltage snap. I deep sixed the whole mess and replaced them with marine grade solid core wires. Been good ever since - 30+ years.

Reread post #3.

You might be able to find a set at an auto parts store if the person behind the counter is sharp (Joe's Western auto parts store) but in my experience when you mention Atomic 4 and the bozo behind the counter "can't find it in the computer" things degenerate real quick and it turns out to be a colossal waste of time. However they will let you know that air fresheners are on sale. Yippee.

If you order from Moyer It will be delivered to your door and you know it will be the right stuff of the highest quality plus Moyer stands behind what they sell.

TRUE GRIT

[romantic comedy]

BUY A WIRE SET FROM MMI. You will get exactly what you need.

All hail Don.

[Golfdad75]

Can I use solid core spark plug wires with electronic ignition. Are the better worse or indifferent? Thanks

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by Golfdad75

Can I use solid core spark plug wires with electronic ignition. Are the better worse or indifferent? Thanks

The Accel wires I use (with EI) are all wire core. They are non-resistance. The theory (for me) is to produce (very near) the minimum spark necessary to run the engine, but deliver as much as possible to the plugs. If you run non-resistance wire you might have trouble with noise in which case you run a suppressor.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I vote for solid core wires. I've never had much luck with graphite core wires. Cars and boat.
My boat came with soft core wires. They lasted ~ 5 years before they broke down. You could see electricity outside the wires when the engine was running at night. Needless to say the engine did not run well.
I replaced them with solid core wires ~ 25 years ago. No problems since.

TRUE GRIT

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON

I vote for solid core wires. I've never had much luck with graphite core wires. Cars and boat.
My boat came with soft core wires. They lasted ~ 5 years before they broke down. You could see electricity outside the wires when the engine was running at night. Needless to say the engine did not run well.
I replaced them with solid core wires ~ 25 years ago. No problems since.

TRUE GRIT

IIRC the original logic for both resistance wire and plugs for that matter was noise suppression which can also be accomplished with a suppressor available at 75 and 150 amps. My simple mind has trouble getting wrapped around the notion of generating a monster spark at the coil and then choking it. Willing to learn.

[Administrator]

Stand by for the next great debate:

Shaken versus stirred....

Bill

[ndutton]

Golfdad, to answer your question directly, this is from Magnecor:

SOLID CORE CONDUCTOR WIRES
Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition, fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is driven on the street — and damage to some original equipment and modern aftermarket electronic ignition and engine management systems can occur. Solid metal conductor wires cannot be suppressed to overcome EMI or RFI without the addition of current-reducing resistors at both ends of wires.

[joe_db]

Solid core wires will make an AM or SSB radio pretty much unusable with the engine running. FYI

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by joe_db

Solid core wires will make an AM or SSB radio pretty much unusable with the engine running. FYI

Not if you run one of these boys: http://www.boatersland.com/new150-a....FcQXHwodKGYBOg

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by Administrator

Stand by for the next great debate:

Shaken versus stirred....

Bill

Usually worked for him:

[joe_db]

Those filters have no effect on RF radiated from plug wires. What we usually used those for was alternators.

Originally Posted by hanleyclifford

Not if you run one of these boys: http://www.boatersland.com/new150-a....FcQXHwodKGYBOg

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by joe_db

Those filters have no effect on RF radiated from plug wires. What we usually used those for was alternators.

That's how they hook up - right to alternator output.

[joe_db]

And they do a great job reducing alternator whine
They do not do anything to stop solid-core wire RFI.

Originally Posted by hanleyclifford

That's how they hook up - right to alternator output.

[hanleyclifford]

Originally Posted by joe_db

And they do a great job reducing alternator whine
They do not do anything to stop solid-core wire RFI.

I'm not much of a theoretician, Joe; I'll take your word for it. I do know that I have no interference with reception of any kind, engine running.