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  #1   IP: 65.31.180.164
Old 08-25-2014, 09:41 PM
dive7mmwet dive7mmwet is offline
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Question several problems, working on them 1 at a time

ok have a 82 Atomic 4 fresh water great lakes cooled with mostly all new parts and updates, to list a few rebuilt zenith 68 carb, new exhaust hose,new fuel and vent lines, new fuel tank pick up tube and check valve,new water lift muffler system,all new tune up wires,plugs points,cap and condenser, new coil, and so on.
1. Smoking and poor performance would pop up see you tube video
http://youtu.be/x4PvZShuAIA
after running 4- 5 hours each time After reading up on symtoms I found that stuck valves were one symptom's of mine and a soaking in the holes with MMO was in need, this helped
you tube video after soaking valves in MMO for short time now I am soaking them a week!
compression no#s
cold wet compression no#s ,138,130,121,120
hot dry no oil in hole after running 90's all holes
just soaking valves in MMO for a few hours!
shot oil warm 130,129,130,130
http://youtu.be/IRxgbbOJEU0
and now I know I need to prevent back pressure on my exhaust to prevent this as my exhaust port was under water with a OVER-loaded cockpit and large dink motor on the back , this is no more. so one problem may be solved I have ok compression, no water in oil, no oil consumption at all, and with hand over flame arrestor lots of suction leaving out a intake gasket leak and I have checked carb for vacume leaks none,,
2. next a Atomic 4 wiring is not too complicated but I have a symptom thats going to be hard to crack but with the engine running good as soon as it starts to act up like start to miss a bit the radio CD player starts to act up fade in and out never did this and sonar speed indicators act up too, I jumped on sanding all the grounds on engine checked loose wires on ignition switch not, battery's all connections tight and I am looking at all the buss bars and will make and bring up some jumper cables to isolate the electronic devices this way and see if the symptoms stop?
Could the ignition switch have any thing to do with this as the electronic radio and speed / sonar do not run thru this switch? or the alternator developed a blown diode and shooting A/c into system I guess I can pull belt off alternator and see if this stops, as I have a new resistor coil in this is not a bad coil, & I will chase all grounds and hot leads and file and sand clean all contact connection points I have been doing this now,,

3. lastly my points are new and I do make sure they are clean before instal and set them .18 to .20 and tighten them down and after I put cap back on engine runs fine for a while then as engine acts up I re check or and re set and check points and then it runs fine for a while?? points don't look burnt or fried out as they look new and they are,,
my distributer seems to have a working mechanical advance as it snaps back is good, I will set advance next but when engine runs good it runs good under load or not is there a symptom or a cause? or is it just the engine gremlins!!
any ideas as I think I had several problems with one masking another but am working my way thru this!
Thanks any help
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  #2   IP: 71.118.13.238
Old 08-26-2014, 10:48 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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Points?

dive7, first welcome to the MMI Forum.

Your performance issue is not real clear, however my first thought is the points! Have you checked the dwell, this will give you an idea of the condition of the cam that operates the points. In these old engines just setting the "gap" is not suffice. If you dwell is way off adjust the points accordingly and she should respond well.
These old engines with worn out distributor cams is the prime reasoning for going to an EI. The other advantage is with the EI once your timing is set unless you need to pull the distributor the timing will not change.
Also be sure the centrifugal advance is moving and returning nicely by rotating the rotor.

Many can chime in on this.

Dave Neptune
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  #3   IP: 205.178.103.137
Old 08-26-2014, 11:42 AM
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Antibes Antibes is offline
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Sounds like a failing wire. When a bad wire or connection gets hot it can not support the same load, so all will run well until the wires get to warm
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  #4   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-26-2014, 11:54 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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R\E #3
Been there. Done this!!!!!!!

Be sure there are no burrs on the breaker plate, points, or the screw that holds the points in place.
Such burrs will make the adjustment feel tight only to loosen in a short time.

Also stripped or cross threaded threads in the breaker plate that the screw that holds the points goes into will have the same effect.

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Maybe while you are re adjusting the points the funky wiring connection cools off enogh to start working properly. You can always bypass the boat's wiring by running a jumper wire from the big terminal on the back of the starter motor to coil +.

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 08-26-2014 at 03:14 PM.
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  #5   IP: 174.94.17.50
Old 08-26-2014, 12:15 PM
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67c&ccorv 67c&ccorv is offline
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1st video shows exhaust that indicates oil is burning in the combustion chamber.

2nd video sounds like your idle speed is set too high...should be 700-900rpm.

Stop revving the engine like a teenager with a new car!


Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 08-28-2014 at 07:50 PM.
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  #6   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 08-26-2014, 03:02 PM
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Al Schober Al Schober is offline
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welcome dive7,
For hunting for loose/bad connections, I like to use a digital meter on LOW range. For supply side connections, hook one lead to battery positive and the other to the connection - any significant voltage difference means a bad connection. Similar to the ground side - one lead to battery negative, the other to the connection. Part of my 'meter kit' is a long wire with a clip on each end - let's me check connections anywhere in the boat. Of course, the circuit has to be drawing power for this to work.
For your interference with other electronics, suggest you think about the spark plug wires. Any chance they got changed out for the copper 'racing' wires? That will raise havoc with radios, etc.
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  #7   IP: 65.31.180.164
Old 08-26-2014, 03:46 PM
dive7mmwet dive7mmwet is offline
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Red face

Hey thanks guys some great places to look at ,One thing the smoke is not oil its unburnt fuel in one or two holes with stuck valves I hope and not broken springs, The points breaker plate screw I will look at and clean or sand and re tighten Thanks Great Idea! the points screw is not stripped ---- Yet,,,, next great idea on the volt meter I will run that test and by pass the ignition with jumper Thanks!
Lastly I will set dwell and will post results hope the valves un stick with repeated MMO treatments and sitting a week , By the way we had a major boat fire lost 3 boat in our marina last night near ours and wow I was relived to see ours did not go up inflames after all my hard work!
Thanks agin guys for some great advice,,
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  #8   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 08-26-2014, 04:50 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dive7mmwet View Post
http://youtu.be/IRxgbbOJEU0
Could the ignition switch have any thing to do with this as the electronic radio and speed / sonar do not run thru this switch?
Have you tried bypassing the switch that is right after the battery?

TRUE GRIT

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 08-26-2014 at 05:42 PM.
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  #9   IP: 65.31.180.164
Old 08-26-2014, 07:38 PM
dive7mmwet dive7mmwet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
Have you tried bypassing the switch that is right after the battery?

TRUE GRIT
the battery selector 1 or two or both I have not but have tried different selections and no change
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  #10   IP: 70.27.58.162
Old 08-28-2014, 07:56 PM
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67c&ccorv 67c&ccorv is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dive7mmwet View Post
Hey thanks guys some great places to look at ,One thing the smoke is not oil its unburnt fuel in one or two holes with stuck valves I hope and not broken springs, The points breaker plate screw I will look at and clean or sand and re tighten Thanks Great Idea! the points screw is not stripped ---- Yet,,,, next great idea on the volt meter I will run that test and by pass the ignition with jumper Thanks!
Lastly I will set dwell and will post results hope the valves un stick with repeated MMO treatments and sitting a week , By the way we had a major boat fire lost 3 boat in our marina last night near ours and wow I was relived to see ours did not go up inflames after all my hard work!
Thanks agin guys for some great advice,,
Unburn't fuel doesn't blow blue smoke - oil does.



Fuel that fails to combust in the cylinders will manifest itself generally as a white vapor that smells like, well...like gasoline.

Water leaking into the combustion chamber will also look white except it doesn't smell like gasoline.

Rich running engines will show dark blue or black exhaust.

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  #11   IP: 65.31.180.164
Old 08-28-2014, 09:02 PM
dive7mmwet dive7mmwet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67c&ccorv View Post
Unburn't fuel doesn't blow blue smoke - oil does.



Fuel that fails to combust in the cylinders will manifest itself generally as a white vapor that smells like, well...like gasoline.

Water leaking into the combustion chamber will also look white except it doesn't smell like gasoline.

Rich running engines will show dark blue or black exhaust.

one thing engine burns no oil,,, NONE , leaks no water in the oil NONE, compression test's in range
ok its whiteish with unburnt fuel smell and sheen on water and would be rich running due to stuck exhaust vale not allowing total combustion and so on IMO
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