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  #1   IP: 74.110.198.83
Old 02-06-2011, 08:22 AM
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ILikeRust ILikeRust is offline
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A few things the Moyer Manual does not cover

As I have dug into my A4 pretty much as deeply as it is possible to dig, I have discovered a couple things that the Moyer Manual overlooks, which would be nice to have covered in there.

Overall, it does a pretty darn good job of walking you step-by-step through the total tear-down process, in sequence.

But it never tells you how to remove the accessory drive. There is one sentence, in association with removing the rear cover over the reversing drive, which says, "If the two bolts that hold the accessory drive on are still in, remove them now."

I couldn't tell at first if that means you can then pull the drive off, or what. It's not totally obvious from looking at it how it comes off. And the manual doesn't say how or when to remove the drive. As it turns out, you just pull it off and the whole thing comes off in your hand. There's nothing about taking it apart either - how to pull the shaft out of the casting. I managed that as well, though, mainly because I've taken apart a bunch of machinery in my lifetime, so I figured it out.

Anyhow, so now I'm trying to decide whether to replace the oil seal or bearing in that accessory drive housing. I figure it makes sense to replace the seal; the bearing seems to be fine.

Next thing was that the manual never tells you when or how to remove the oil screen. In the following section, about putting it back together, it tells you when and how to re-install it, but that of course assumes you've already taken it off.

Again, no biggie; I figured out to just carefully unscrew it.

There's also nothing about disassembling the starter motor, which I did so that I can clean and paint it. So I'm totally off the map there.

I also found nothing that would aid figuring out my question about a the exhaust flange bolt holes.

Finally, and this is a small, but potentially significant, point: the nuts that hold on the crank main bearing caps and all the connecting rod caps have little slots cut in them. I noticed when taking mine apart that nearly all of them had those slots oriented away from the object being secured. So those slots pointed towards the open end of the stud or bolt, rather than pressing against the rod caps.

BUT one rod cap had them on the other way - the slots were bearing against the rod cap.

I assume that since all of the other ones were assembled in the other orientation (i.e., away from the rod cap) that this one had been assembled incorrectly. And this occurred at the factory! Because I'm pretty confident this engine has never been opened up since it was installed in 1983.

It would be nice if the manual had at least a little sidebar about the proper orientation for those slotted nuts. I plan on putting them all back in with the slots pointing away from the caps, because that's the way all but one of the caps were assembled.

It's actually very nice having a manual to follow for once - pretty much all the machinery I've disassembled and reassembled has been antique woodworking machinery, and I have to figure it all out as I go, take good notes and photos and remember how it all goes back together. But the potential for mistakes being very costly is much lower when disassembling an old bandsaw than with this engine.
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  #2   IP: 174.94.22.135
Old 02-06-2011, 01:50 PM
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67c&ccorv 67c&ccorv is offline
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BUT one rod cap had them on the other way - the slots were bearing against the rod cap.

Wow! Just goes to show you that you should always check and double-check your finished assembly (with your glasses on!) including each and every not and bolt that is assembled in the rebuild.

FWIW was that the bearing that had the acid etching on it?

Cheers!
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  #3   IP: 74.110.198.83
Old 02-06-2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67c&ccorv View Post
FWIW was that the bearing that had the acid etching on it?
None of the bearings had "acid" etching - one of the crank main bearings had a small amount of mechanical damage - a few small bits flaked off. It looked to me like it had been subject to some severe pressure, or vibration or pounding, which chipped off a couple tiny flakes of the bearing material.

The "backwards" slotted nuts were on one of the connecting rod caps. All of the connecting rod bearings look pretty much perfect, so it doesn't seem to have made any difference.

Anyone know what the correct orientation for these slotted nuts is? I'm assuming they're supposed to be oriented with the slots away from from the item the nut is pressed up against, since only that one cap was assembled with the slots pressing up against the bearing cap, and all the other slotted nuts were facing the other way.
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  #4   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 02-06-2011, 04:31 PM
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
 
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Your assumption about the correct orientation of the "slots" is correct. I wonder what they used to smoke in those days?
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