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  #1   IP: 142.68.101.28
Old 08-07-2008, 07:20 AM
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rigspelt rigspelt is offline
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Disabling coil for compression test

I am about to do my first compression test. Late model A4. Newly installed electronic ignition module. My procedure after doing the required google research is below.

Question: easiest and safest way to "disable the coil"?

1. Remove the center high tension wire at the distributor cap (not at the coil) and connect a jumper from it to the engine block ground, away from the cylinders - any unpainted metal will work. Ground the wire so the power being produced by the ignition module/coil allows the load dissipate.

OR

2. Disconnect the small eletrical wires at the coil and tape them off. This is my preference, if it is a valid option.

---
Draft notes:
Manually with a gauge.
Warm up the engine.
Disable the ignition module or coil:
(Removing the center high tension lead at the coil is not good enough: coil and IEM generate electricity but it has no where to go.)
Disable electronic fuel pump, if present. Or fuel injection, if present.
Pull the plug wires off the plugs, noting their order. Mark the wires first (1 dot for #1 cylinder, etc).
Blow dirt away from the plugs and their holes.
Remove all the spark plugs (so engine can rotate easily) and place them in order on marked paper.
Insert gauge into one plug hole.
Hold throttle open to ensure adequate air intake.
Crank engine a few timesc(4-6).
Check the gauge reading.
Repeat at next hole.
---
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  #2   IP: 76.7.117.24
Old 08-07-2008, 08:24 AM
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Marian Claire Marian Claire is offline
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Don't forget to close the raw water intake after warm up. Dan
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  #3   IP: 142.68.101.28
Old 08-08-2008, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigspelt View Post
Question: easiest and safest way to "disable the coil"?
1. Remove the center high tension wire at the distributor cap (not at the coil) and connect a jumper from it to the engine block ground, away from the cylinders - any unpainted metal will work. Ground the wire so the power being produced by the ignition module/coil allows the load dissipate.
OR
2. Disconnect the small eletrical wires at the coil and tape them off. This is my preference, if it is a valid option.
Which option works? Either? Thanks.

Updated 09 August: mechanic advised either, so I picked option 2 and all went fine.

Last edited by rigspelt; 08-10-2008 at 06:23 AM.
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  #4   IP: 76.7.117.24
Old 08-08-2008, 09:41 AM
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Marian Claire Marian Claire is offline
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coil

I just followed the directions that came with the tester plus the raw water shutoff. I think I just unplugged the wire that feeds the distributor, from the coil. I don’t reminder grounding the coil. Wish I had the tester here to confirm but it is on the boat. 370 miles to the east. Hope that helps. Dan
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  #5   IP: 70.248.226.189
Old 08-10-2008, 03:17 PM
sailorman sailorman is offline
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Thumbs down sailorman

left key on for hours and in replacing the points, condencer, found the
coil was kuput. after new one arrived wires had become mixed. any
help to what goes where, on the coil? pitures would help...
thanks sailorman
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  #6   IP: 142.68.101.217
Old 08-10-2008, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailorman View Post
left key on for hours and in replacing the points, condencer, found the coil was kuput. after new one arrived wires had become mixed. any help to what goes where, on the coil? pitures would help... thanks sailorman
On my* boat the positive terminal on the coil has three wires:
- Red wire from the electronic ignition module in the distributor.
- Red coiled wire connected to the yellow wire coming out of the alternator's external regulator.
- Purple wire from the ignition switch on the panel in the cockpit.
And the negative terminal has a black ground wire from the electronic ignition module.

*Warning - buyer beware: I am no mechanic, and my setup could be different from yours. I don't have a tachometer yet, for example. Beware the blind leading the blind.
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