#1
IP: 38.70.61.129
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No more black iron?
My exhaust popped a leak and I thought it would be a trivial repair, run down to the store and buy some pipe.
Turned out to not be so easy, none of the local hardware stores, Home Depot, or Lowes carry black iron in 1-1/4" any more ![]() I guess I need to pay the $$$ to have it shipped from McMaster.
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#2
IP: 100.36.79.131
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Joe,
I've found that, because we of the Chesapeake are so close to McMaster (New Jersey), that even ordering the cheapest ground shipping they have, it usually arrives in one day. I would also recommend considering using stainless. Its much more expensive than black iron, but I feel it is worth the extra expense. Cry once. I did mine in all stainless over 10 years ago, and so far the only piece that has failed is the steel adapter flange on the manifold. Back when I did it, it cost me around $200 for all the pipe and fittings.
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 ![]() |
#3
IP: 38.70.61.129
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Quote:
![]() Note sure how the flange failed, that part is dry. The only reason I don't reuse them is I can never get the old one off the pipe.
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#4
IP: 70.66.128.205
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It might not work in other areas but I've found by taking the old worn black parts to the plumbing wholesaler they will have gathered all the parts for me in minutes. I do try to not go at busy times and I stay out of the way of tradesmen whose time means money. Works for me.
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Chuck 71 Ranger 29 |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Easy Rider For This Useful Post: | ||
hanleyclifford (09-18-2023), TimBSmith (09-04-2023) |
#5
IP: 38.70.61.129
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Quote:
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#6
IP: 100.36.89.200
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Heat + iron + oxygen = rust. The rust takes up more space than the iron and locks the pipe into the flange. In my case, after 10 years, the force was so great that it split the flange!
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@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 ![]() |
The Following User Says Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
Dave Neptune (08-29-2023) |
#7
IP: 38.70.61.129
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Quote:
![]()
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#8
IP: 73.176.217.12
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Joe - sent you private message, thx
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#9
IP: 38.70.61.129
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I don't see one???
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#10
IP: 47.54.63.204
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I'd go SS and do it. The quality of black iron is not what it was. My first change lasted 6 years, the second 5 years and I'm into the 4th year on this current one. I am buying SS pipe and doing it next time. I'd also thought of SS exhaust pipe with a welded SS flange but I don't think it's up to it. The pipe is so thin it won't last. I just may gather up my parts this winter and do it as it was in the back of my mind this year.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
#11
IP: 73.86.148.8
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I have a broken hot stack with both flange and mixer ready for the next owner to pick up. I never took the time to cut the broken pipe off. I figured if you have one of each you have 5 years or so to worry about it. I think this is year three.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() |
#12
IP: 38.70.61.129
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The pipe fittings from McMaster are USA made and seem better than the Home Depot Chinese stuff. For the T at the top I got a fitting with 2 1-1/4" ports and a 3/4" on the top, it saves me a reducer for the water injection.
I forgot how much I hate clocking these fittings. OK, a little loose, do I dare go for one more turn or will it jam up halfway around? I swear the next time I make one of these I will try and get some stainless fabricated or weld it together or something.
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
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sastanley (09-01-2023) |
#13
IP: 162.245.50.180
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Joe, the other big plus with black iron is not needing to use any sealant of any kind. If you just get it snug or even a tiny bit loose it will "rust" sealed and "fixed" in position in a few run cycles. The last one I built in Volador I actually used wire to hold in place as getting that extra turn was not possible. It sealed fine and was still functioning when I sold the boat.
Dave Neptune ![]() |
#14
IP: 38.70.61.129
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Quote:
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#15
IP: 162.245.50.180
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I have heard from a few old timers that cleaning the oil off of the pipe and then assembling with really salty water speeds things up. I never have tried it but it "sounds" like a good idea.
Dave Neptune ![]() |
#16
IP: 50.220.253.72
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The problem with using stainless steel for exhaust is that it sets up a galvanic cell with it being the cathode (more noble) and the first piece of steel or cast iron going to the manifold becoming the anode (less noble) - hence the failure of the steel adapter. Be happy it was just the adapter which is easily replaced. I would still be worried about mixing metals in the presence of salt water which is always being injected into the system.
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Mo (09-19-2023) |
#17
IP: 38.70.61.196
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I was wondering about that. What if you put a zinc on there somehow?
Meanwhile, I think I'll make another exhaust and swap them out 3-4 years from now instead of waiting for it to leak again. I am a bit frustrated that the original iron exhaust lasted over a decade, they seem to keep getting worse and worse.
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Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Maryland USA |
#18
IP: 73.86.148.8
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Slightly unrelated, I rebuilt the support structure for the swim platform on my powerboat, which is built out of the same SS pipe as a bimini is made of. I put a zinc on each leg that goes underwater and connects to the bronze fitting bolted to the hull.
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() |
#19
IP: 76.176.224.167
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Well done Shawn. The key component = being immersed in an electrolyte.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (Yesterday) |
#20
IP: 47.54.60.84
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I see your boat Shawn and the name...well I think of "Dock Holiday"...no disrepect intended being on a dock, but it has a ring to it.
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Mo "Odyssey" 1976 C&C 30 MKI The pessimist complains about the wind. The optimist expects it to change. The realist adjusts the sails. ...Sir William Arthur Ward. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Mo For This Useful Post: | ||
sastanley (Yesterday) |
#21
IP: 73.86.148.8
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Quote:
I asked the previous owner how often he replaced the zincs.. His response.. "When did you buy the boat..July??? That is about the time I would get my dive gear on and put new zincs on everything after launching in March". ![]() I said, "OK, thanks for the info", thinking he just thought that was normal and was putting band aids on a problem. I know more zincs are NOT the permanent answer if he was rolling thru them from March to July, and there is more at play. However, those zincs on the swim platform I can see from the dock, so I have a little piece of mind...however, they are not bonded to other parts of the boat. (as far as I know, nothing on this boat is bonded...that is an entirely different discussion. ![]() Sorry for the hijack. Quote:
![]() ![]()
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-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) ![]() Last edited by sastanley; Yesterday at 08:40 PM. |
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