Ignition Issues, Need Help

[Bents]

Hi all,

I finally received all of the parts I was waiting on at the end of last week and headed to the boat bright and early this morning with my Dad and BIL. Here is what we accomplished today:

- Removed old ignition and installed new brass ignition
- completely replaced all wiring from the old harness, including the plugs, with direct connections. All new terminals with heat shrink protection.
-removed ammeter and replaced with volt meter.
-put appropriate inline fuses in as per the wiring diagram. there were no fuses in the old harness.

One more immediate job I will do is fix up those battery cables that are exposed but we couldn't get to it today.

Once we had everything wired up we tried to start the engine and got nothing. We used a multimeter to check everything and all seems fine. Nothing caught on fire, blower works, lights work, volt gauge works. We checked resistance across the solenoid and got nothing, no "clicks" when engaging the ignition. I'm going to replace the solenoid on my next day off unless anyone here has a suggestion or any advice on what I should check..

I used the attached diagram. A couple things of note, the 12 gauge wires are actually 10 gauge. The yellow/red stripe wire is a white wire that I put yellow and red electrical tape on for indication. The orange wire is actually a red power cable in the photos.

Would definitely appreciate some feedback.

[Bents]

more photos

[Bents]

last of the photos

[Dave Neptune]

When you say nothing happened, what exactly do you mean?
Did the engine not crank over?
Did the engine crank over and not start? If it did did you check for spark and fuel?
Did you try jumping the starter?
Did you wire direct to the fuel pump or through the OPSS?

You got nothing gives us nothing for info which is needed for diagnostics and or fixes.

Dave Neptune

[Bents]

The engine did not crank over. No sound or "clicking" from the starter at all. Its like I might as well have not even turned the key.

I did not try jumping the starter but I can give that a try.

I did not replace any wires connecting to the fuel pump/OPSS.

[Easy Rider]

Sounds too simple but you might want to go back and check the new ignition switch wiring.

[Dave Neptune]

Time to play with a volt meter. First confirm voltage at the switch and the switches position at run and again at start to confirm the switch is working. Then check for voltage at the solenoid start terminal. If no voltage work back through the connections to the switch. Also check to see that there is voltage at the coil + terminal when the key is on at the run and start positions.

Could be as simple as a blown fuse or a skipped connection on the rewire.

Did the electric fuel pump run?

Dave Neptune

[Bents]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Sounds too simple but you might want to go back and check the new ignition switch wiring.

I'll double check it for sure, you can see it in the photos. Multimeter read 12.7V from the s terminal on the solenoid to ground when the key was turned which lead us to suspect it needed replacing.

[Bents]

Originally Posted by Dave Neptune

Time to play with a volt meter. First confirm voltage at the switch and the switches position at run and again at start to confirm the switch is working. Then check for voltage at the solenoid start terminal. If no voltage work back through the connections to the switch. Also check to see that there is voltage at the coil + terminal when the key is on at the run and start positions.

Could be as simple as a blown fuse or a skipped connection on the rewire.

Did the electric fuel pump run?

Dave Neptune

Ha! I was replying as you were. We checked the voltages as you suggest. All showed 12V+.

I'm not sure on the fuel pump, I should be able to hear that run when i turn the key to "on"? I'll test that out.

[Dave Neptune]

You can check the starter with 2 screwdrivers. Put one on each end of the large lugs on the solenoid and cross the screwdrivers, the starter motor should run. If it does and you have voltage at the "start" terminal on the solenoid that will confirm the solenoid is bad.

Was one of the "cooked" wires connected to the solenoid?

What were the cooked wires connected to?

You should be able to hear the fuel pump clicking. Once you get the engine to turn over and start GET THE OPSS hooked back up. It is an important safety device when using the electric style pumps. It is just a switch the only engages once the engine is cranking and the OPSS senses oil pressure which holds it in the on position until no pressure is present. Many install a bypass of the switch for priming of the carb for an easier start.

Dave Neptune

[Bents]

First of, thank you everyone for the help! I've learned a heck of a lot in the first month of boat ownership lol.

Replacing the solenoid was not the issue, but it was the lowest cost step in the troubleshooting process. Turns out it was the actual starter that was bad. Just put the new one in yesterday and she fired right up after a few 5 second attempts.

Everything looks good, sounds good, runs good. We couldn't be happier.

I've completed my first major repair. Thanks again!!