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  #1   IP: 75.192.67.168
Old 08-10-2012, 03:29 PM
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New Control Panel Enclosures!

MMI is pleased to announce the following new control panel enclosure products. These enclosures are an ideal choice for installations where a minimal protrusion is desired and the instrument panel may be subjected to frequent exposure to weather and/or spray. Constructed of sturdy ABS plastic, the enclosures also feature a clear acrylic hinged spray shield. The bottom edge of the recess is sloped to facilitate drainage.

When installing the panel, use a sealant which is compatible with ABS plastic.

A Velcro closure at the bottom center of the panel secures the cover.

Four mounting holes are predrilled in the corners of the exterior flange and four #8 Philips flat-headed stainless mounting screws are included. No other holes are predrilled. Gauges not included; scale is approximate.

Depth of the panel is 1-1/4 inches. If you're contemplating installing a key, check this dimension.

Control Panel Enclosure 9-3/8 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (4) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

Control Panel Enclosure 12 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (6) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

A picture of the larger unit is shown below:


Last edited by Administrator; 08-13-2012 at 01:51 PM. Reason: Provide addtional info in response to subsequent forum questions.
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  #2   IP: 173.53.22.120
Old 08-10-2012, 08:27 PM
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What kind of sealant would work best with these, when mounting the panel in an exterior bulkhead? I mean the sealant for bedding the enclosure into the bulkhead, not for bedding the gauges into the enclosure.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:43 PM
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Suuweeeet!
Been needing to do this on my vessel for a long time.

What is the DEPTH measurement?

Am I right that the gauge "holes" are not pre-drilled/cut?
We customize it how we see fit?
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  #4   IP: 24.152.131.155
Old 08-11-2012, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILikeRust View Post
What kind of sealant would work best with these, when mounting the panel in an exterior bulkhead? I mean the sealant for bedding the enclosure into the bulkhead, not for bedding the gauges into the enclosure.
To each his own Bill. When selecting a sealant consider future removal too. In my case, the only access I have to the back of my gauge panel is by removing it. I prefer silicone based sealants for such applications.

3M 5200 = Satan's Glue.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:15 AM
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some sealants are not compatible with certain plastics.
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  #6   IP: 24.152.131.155
Old 08-11-2012, 10:38 AM
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I've never had an issue with silicone on anything.

Back in the day (1970's) we used only three 'sealants' in fiberglass boat construction:
  • Polysulfide for hull and deck joints and below the waterline installations such as thru-hulls.
  • Silicone for above waterline installations.
  • Original Dolphinite for bedding exterior wood. If I recall, it had a biocide component that prevented fungi from forming under the teak.
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  #7   IP: 71.176.203.160
Old 08-11-2012, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
3M 5200 = Satan's Glue.
So I've heard. It's one of those perennial topics over on the Wooden Boat forum. Basically, what I've taken away from the discussion is don't ever, ever, ever, use 5200 for something you might ever, ever, ever, want to remove without destroying the item or the surrounding substrate it's bonded to. 5200 is for permanently adhering things together, period.

There are several regulars over on the WBF who state the rule that they will not use 5200 for anything on a wooden boat, period, because of prior experiences they've had trying to make repairs after someone previously had bonded something with it.

I'm reading Reuel Parker's "The New Cold Molded Boatbuilding" and I've been a little surprised at how many times he's suggested using 5200 for certain things. I guess he's not in that camp of people who are adamantly opposed to its use. Either that, or maybe his views would be different now than when he wrote the book (back in the 1980's/90's, I believe).

I've found butyl rubber tape to be wonderful stuff so far. I'm thinking I likely would use that to install one of these nice little panels, when I finally get to that project.
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  #8   IP: 67.54.132.195
Old 08-11-2012, 01:22 PM
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Instrument panel replacement

Good time to repost this. I had this made for me by teacher. If interested in the perfect compliment to the enclosure, let me know.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/at...1&d=1344705472
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  #9   IP: 207.96.251.18
Old 08-11-2012, 07:33 PM
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Another thumbs up for butyl tape. Inexpensive and idiot proof, and I ought to know as I've tested the latter rigorously in my Idiot Lab. Its only flaw is that it's a little hard to get off of a hot deck after it's been stepped on.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:26 AM
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I'll repeat a comment from another thread, beautiful work Scuppers.

Jerry asked about the enclosure depth, I noticed it appears on the description in the catalog, 1¼".
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:10 PM
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Hmm... small, medium... where's large?
I suppose one could put the gauges in the one and the controls in another...
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Old 08-12-2012, 02:34 PM
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Not sure how much room you need. My 5 gauge array including a full sized tach plus switches for ignition, blower and fuel tank selector would fit in the larger of the two new panels just fine. In fact, with these available it looks like I'll be redoing mine for a third time.

The pictured enclosure is one I made a few years ago out of fiberglass.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:04 PM
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Still gotta squeeze in the choke and the light switch. And I might want to add hours and vacuum. Sure, they could go downstairs, but there's no real place for them there. And maybe a separate switch for the compass binnacle. (Although I might just put that on the running lights circuit.)
Actually a split panel might be best for my boat, since the 12" hole is behind the shifter and throttle levers, where there's no room for a hinged cover. Could do a sliding one like you appear to have...

NO. I will not open any new projects until the boat is relaunched.
Repeat after me....
"Oh, but it's not a new project since you still have to install this new tach somewhere."
Shut up Boat. It's a slippery slope.
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:09 PM
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That is a nice and very practical panel, recessed and covered. I just cut one off a Catalina 30 that enclosed the instruments for a YanMar diesel engine. It also had the clear cover that was screwed to a stainless hinge. It made it easy for replacement of the plexiglass once it had weather checked in the sunlight. The Catalina had it molded into the bridgedeck. The panel was also molded at an angle to have the gauges easily read without bending over or standing on ones head!!
I don't believe you want to use silicone sealer on any part of the boat that you may ever want to paint. you could try 5400 sealer or my favorite Butyl tape as mentioned already

Last edited by Carl-T705; 08-12-2012 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:15 PM
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What keeps the acrylic shield from flapping when heeled?
Is there room for a key to be installed (depth between shield and gauge mounting face)?

Thanks,
Micah
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:36 PM
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I'm thinking you'd have to be heeled about 90 degrees over before you'd have to worry about that shield "flapping". Gravity should hold it down just fine, I would think.

As Neil notes above, it looks like the depth is 1-1/4".
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:28 AM
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Thumbs up

Ooooo...When my $13 brownie pan fails, I know where I am getting a replacement!
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  #18   IP: 75.192.169.216
Old 08-13-2012, 01:47 PM
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Several inquiries have been posted since the announcement originally appeared. This announcement has been edited to provide additional information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Administrator View Post
MMI is pleased to announce the following new control panel enclosure products. These enclosures are an ideal choice for installations where a minimal protrusion is desired and the instrument panel may be subjected to frequent exposure to weather and/or spray. Constructed of sturdy ABS plastic, the enclosures also feature a clear acrylic hinged spray shield. The bottom edge of the recess is sloped to facilitate drainage. A Velcro closure at the bottom center of the panel secures the cover.

When installing the panel, use a sealant which is compatible with ABS plastic.

Four mounting holes are predrilled in the corners of the exterior flange and four #8 Philips flat-headed stainless mounting screws are included. No other holes are predrilled. Gauges not included; scale is approximate.

Depth of the panel is 1-1/4 inches. If you're contemplating installing a key, check this dimension.

Control Panel Enclosure 9-3/8 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (4) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

Control Panel Enclosure 12 inches (click here)
This enclosure is capable of accommodating (6) two-inch gauges or equivalent.

A picture of the larger unit is shown below:



Last edited by Administrator; 08-13-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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  #19   IP: 173.161.105.209
Old 10-02-2012, 05:27 PM
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Thumbs up New cockpit instrument panel

Verrrry interesting

Looks like it is something I could use---Can in be installed vertically? What about the clear over and its hinges? And they be reoriented?

Mary
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:15 AM
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Hotflash,

Based on the product description I think the enclosure can be mounted the way you want. There are a couple of things to consider though:
Quote:
The bottom edge of the recess is sloped to facilitate drainage.
Orientation other than as shown in the picture will lose the benefit of the sloped recess bottom and the drainage feature.

Regarding the hinged spray shield, it isn't watertight so having the hinge on the side rather than the top shouldn't make any difference. There's a Velcro closure to keep the shield closed
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:33 PM
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This past weekend I finally got around to installing my new Cockpit Control Panel.
I'd been putting this off forever because along with cutting new holes in both the panel for the gauges and the cockpit for the larger panel, I wanted to do some re-wiring.
It turned out great and everything worked the first time!
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Last edited by roadnsky; 07-29-2013 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:16 AM
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Inspiring Jerry. Nice work too!
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:25 AM
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A little help please

So Jerry, studying the wiring on the back of the panel I think I see ignition, start and blower switches (two illuminated), gauge illumination hot buss and choke cable, correct?

How are you switching the gauge illumination (red wire to the buss?)?

edit:
I just realized the first picture is with the spray shield down. Couldn't even tell. NICE!
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Last edited by ndutton; 07-27-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
So Jerry, studying the wiring on the back of the panel I think I see ignition, start and blower switches (two illuminated), gauge illumination hot buss and choke cable, correct?

How are you switching the gauge illumination (red wire to the buss?)?
Wow! That's kinda scary that you can spot all of that so exactly!
(Did you notice that one illuminated switch is RED and the other GREEN?)

I have the gauge lighting on a separate switch on the DC panel so it's only lit up when I need it and not just when the ignition is energized.
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Last edited by roadnsky; 07-27-2013 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadnsky View Post
Wow! That's kinda scary that you can spot all of that so exactly!
I can't help it, it's what I do. One of my regular clients is the State of California for whom I perform inspections/investigations within the electrical field, conducted an investigation just this week. I produce a report that hopefully will end the dispute between customer and contractor but if not I must be prepared to defend the report in a court of law. All this is based on jobsite observations without input from either party (disputing parties' input is not evidence in my involvement) It's sort of forensic.

I opted for connecting gauge illumination to the navigation lights thereby saving a switch space.
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