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  #1   IP: 208.85.168.101
Old 10-29-2010, 04:25 PM
dthomas95 dthomas95 is offline
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Winterizing

When I pull the two aft drain plugs, then pull the forward plug, I find no water escapes from the forward plug. Is this normal? What's the indication?

Also, is it necessary to run anti-freeze through the engine, if the engine is drained via the drain plugs?
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  #2   IP: 71.168.64.77
Old 10-29-2010, 04:31 PM
ArtJ ArtJ is offline
 
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You definitely want to run antifreeze thru the engine with it running.
Dranng via the plugs will not drain the block entirely, leaving it open to
potential freezing

Regards

Art
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  #3   IP: 71.252.30.109
Old 10-29-2010, 06:14 PM
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dt,

I think this might indicate blockages in the drains. Air in the water jacket is more corrosive than salt water...IMO...even though I know from the P.O. that this is how my boat was winterized its first 31 years. I now draw in some pink RV antifreeze into my raw water cooled engine for winterizing.

Right now, Ace Hardware has it on sale for $2.99/gallon.
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  #4   IP: 70.22.226.86
Old 10-29-2010, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dthomas95 View Post
When I pull the two aft drain plugs, then pull the forward plug, I find no water escapes from the forward plug.
I don't get any drainage out of the drains either. After hauling out, I run fresh water through the engine for about 15 minutes to desalinate the interior. Then I run four or five gallons of -100 antifreeze through the engine. My theory is that the antifreeze will push out most of the water and any remaining water won't raise the protective temperature of the antifreeze dangerously. Seems to do okay.

Mark S
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  #5   IP: 71.90.49.175
Old 10-30-2010, 10:22 AM
Laker Laker is offline
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I'm with Mark , except I do not need to desalinate. If a good thorough antifreeze flush is done , is it really necessary to pull the drain plugs?
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  #6   IP: 142.68.241.192
Old 10-30-2010, 03:47 PM
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Both of them drain from our engine, after taking the side plate off and flushing old sediment out of the base of the cooling chamber during the refit when we bought the boat. Now that I have antifreeze cooling, I only do that when I change the antifreeze.
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  #7   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 10-30-2010, 05:24 PM
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The two drain plugs on either side of the water jacket actually are very close to the extremity of the cooling system. If they are allowed to remain plugged a buildup is more likely in the corners of the water chamber. This can lead to uneven cooling of the cylinders. It is a good idea to flush thru these two holes until they run clear. To forestall even the possibility of this occuring I have incorporated these two holes into the cooling system.
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  #8   IP: 70.22.226.86
Old 10-30-2010, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
It is a good idea to flush thru these two holes until they run clear.
How is this best done?
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  #9   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 10-30-2010, 10:27 PM
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Flushing block coolant drains

Since the drains are 1/8" NPT it is necesary thru a system of adapters to get up to garden hose fittings and flush each hole. This is going to disturb some junk so it has to be done thoroughly. The possibility of crud collecting in the vicinity of these holes has bothered me enough that I have modified my cooling system so that the question cannot arise. See my engine album on this site.
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:11 PM
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hanley, great information.

As a kid (the P.O. of my boat is my father) I remember him draining the 'block drain' near the accessory drive regularly in the winter, since we never really winterized the boat..we might go sailing on any warm winter weekend. It wasn't until I took ownership (2 years ago) that I've seen this drain hole not drain. However, when I pulled the side plate, I can see why it might not..I dunno if my Dad got lucky all those years or what!!?!?!

I see the value in your plan...Boy, I am really starting to saving my pennies for FWC.
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Old 10-31-2010, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
See my engine album on this site.
Gleaming gold -- very nice tour. Thanks. I see Shawn has an album up now too.
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  #12   IP: 70.22.226.86
Old 11-01-2010, 09:27 PM
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Thanks for the info, Hanley.

I winterized yesterday with 4 gallons of -100, and, because I have OCD, I went out and got 2 more gallons and ran them through. The blue out the exhaust was the same blue as went into the bucket at the intake end so I'm good until spring. I'll think about how to flush then. Does Don's flushing kit do the job for all the junk at the bottom of the water jacket that's blocking my drains?

Mark
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  #13   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 11-01-2010, 09:49 PM
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If those two drains have been blocked for a while it may take a screwdriver to clear them (go easy though). Also, a lot of junk may have accumulated near those drains and the flush is going to scare up the neighborhood! I've never used Don's flushing kit so I cannot comment on that. Actually, first prize is to take off the water jacket side plate and go at it with screwdriver and shop vac.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Actually, first prize is to take off the water jacket side plate and go at it with screwdriver and shop vac.
Now you're scaring me. After dealing with propeller shaft nuts last spring and breaking my shaft, I'm not anxious to undo any bolts that probably haven't been touched since they were first installed, whenever that was. And maybe I really don't want to see what's going on inside! Nevertheless, I had a feeling this suggestion would come along sometime and it's probably what ought to be done. Don's side plate repair kit might just be the ticket for when I "screw up" the bolts.

Mark
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  #15   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 11-01-2010, 11:16 PM
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You didn't mention whether you have an overheating problem or not. If you are runing at normal temperature and getting good water out the exhaust your cooling chamber is probably OK. Is your engine early or late? I assumed you have salt water cooling.
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  #16   IP: 70.22.226.86
Old 11-02-2010, 10:18 PM
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Late model A4, so late it has the sheet metal flywheel cover. Raw water cooled. She runs at a steady 160 degrees in the summer under load and cooler in the fall. I have the bypass ball valve kit which I used only once to lower the temperature from 180 to 160 after 3+ hours of motoring from Provincetown to Marblehead across Massachusetts Bay with no wind. We have steady water flow out the back.

I am gratified to read you think maybe I don't have a cooling chamber issue. Nevertheless, thrusting a wire into the drain holes does nothing to improve drainage.

Mark
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  #17   IP: 173.166.26.241
Old 11-02-2010, 11:09 PM
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I would be concerned if after thrusting a wire into the drain holes nothing came out. This would indicate a buildup in the area. This could affect local temperatures at the base of cylinders 1 and 4.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:26 AM
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Draining the engine

Do not forget to open the impeller cover as there is plenty water held there; in addition to the 2 drain plugs. I also place a table spoon of fresh engine oil in each cylendar (via the spark plug port) then hand crank the engine 2 -3 revs.
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