Pulled off the head, need advice on next steps

[theredboat]

Crank?

By the way - is there a way to crank the engine without using the crank tool supplied by moyer?

my problem is that in my boat there is plenty of clearance to port, stbd and aft of the engine, but only about an inch of clearance forward of the flywheel. I really want to manually crank the engine to inspect the valves as they move through each stroke, but not sure how to accomplish this with my situation.

[ArtJ]

If you are in neutral, you can either turn the salt water pump pto belt,
if freshwater cooled, or turn the output shaft, probably more diffcult.

Art

[rigspelt]

By the way - is there a way to crank the engine without using the crank tool supplied by moyer?my problem is that in my boat there is plenty of clearance to port, stbd and aft of the engine, but only about an inch of clearance forward of the flywheel. I really want to manually crank the engine to inspect the valves as they move through each stroke, but not sure how to accomplish this with my situation.

Can you cut an access hole in the obstruction in front of the flywheel?

[theredboat]

If you are in neutral, you can either turn the salt water pump pto belt,
if freshwater cooled, or turn the output shaft, probably more diffcult.

Art

This worked great! Excellent tip. Using this technique I was able to confirm te valves are now all working properly!

[sastanley]

rigs, thanks for re-posting those excellent diagrams. When I adjusted my valves this spring, I had your diagram printed out and I was keeping notes under each one as I dialed in the 0.010" or 0.012" clearance!

I agree with Hanley..I know you always use the disclaimer about not being a mechanic, but you are much more thorough than many of us, you take time to analyze and diagram (saving me lots of time! ) and may very well be learning yourself a new trade!

My neighbor and I refer to ourselves as 'shade tree mechanics', because we are usually in the front yard sitting under a tree with a beer trying to figure out how to keep one of our respective engines running a little longer..today he is bringing his Camaro over to charge the A/C system so he can sell it. I have to buy more beer on the way home.

trb - I have a Catalina 30 and there is no room in front either (the engine sits in a fiberglass box in the middle of the boat) - I cut a hole in the front that was big enough to get the crank thru in the event I ever need to hand start..I decided the $50 crank was cheaper (and lighter!) than carrying a spare starter & I can use it for turning the motor over for MMO treatments, timing & valves, etc. etc.

[Seabee Chief]

Looking better

TRB,
Wow, what a great tread. A wealth of information from many experienced A4 mechanics. The engine is looking better than your first pics. Don't forget, if your want your engine to operate at it's proper temp, you need to clear all those water jackets in the block. It looks better, but I still see crud in all the pockets. Also be sure to flush the head out good and check the flatness of the head with a straight edge. Your studs look in the same condition as mine when we removed our head. It's a 50/50 shot if one will break or not when you torque down the head. We got lucky and they all torqued fine. If you have the time replace them, if not roll the bones and take yuor chances. Worst that will happen is one will snap and you will have to remove the head and replace them all anyway.
Good luck,

Chief

[theredboat]

Don't forget, if your want your engine to operate at it's proper temp, you need to clear all those water jackets in the block. It looks better, but I still see crud in all the pockets. Also be sure to flush the head out good and check the flatness of the head with a straight edge.

Yes, you're right. I need to do a bit more with the water jackets. I'll try the coat hanger approach. Also, I bought a used head from MM, which I had re-conditioned at a shop. They flattened it, cleaned the hell out of it (the water jackets of the one I got from MM were filled with rust when I got it), and re-threaded the hole for the temp sensor. All that for $40. Definitely worth it.

I spent another 8 hours with a razor blade and got the block side much much cleaner. After getting the water jackets cleaned out, I'll feel much better about putting the head back on.

I'll report back soon. Thanks again for all the tips everyone.