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  #26   IP: 162.245.50.171
Old 11-18-2022, 11:27 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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3 types

In my 45 plus years of operating a sailboat with an inboard engine I have used both dripless and packing styles in 3 ways.

First is the packing style packed with "flax" type seals. These are a PIA as they do leak often albeit not much, They do require constant monitoring and adjustment.

Second, the packing style with the synthetic packing is a big plus over the above. It is a bit more difficult to get adjusted but once adjusted it offers many years of service with very little dripping as per Shawn. All that is required for the most part is monitoring just to be "sure".

Third is the dripless, it is not maintenance free as the water line for cooling must be checked often for flow as it is a small line and easily can plug up. Al's point of filtering is a good idea especially in silty conditions. It also requires annual lubricating under the bellows.

Point is no matter what you choose it will require "checking and maintenance" so if this is a problem I strongly suggest creating an access port for maintenance whatever you choose.

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  #27   IP: 138.207.177.95
Old 11-18-2022, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
In my 45 plus years of operating a sailboat with an inboard engine I have used both dripless and packing styles in 3 ways.

First is the packing style packed with "flax" type seals. These are a PIA as they do leak often albeit not much, They do require constant monitoring and adjustment.

Second, the packing style with the synthetic packing is a big plus over the above. It is a bit more difficult to get adjusted but once adjusted it offers many years of service with very little dripping as per Shawn. All that is required for the most part is monitoring just to be "sure".

Third is the dripless, it is not maintenance free as the water line for cooling must be checked often for flow as it is a small line and easily can plug up. Al's point of filtering is a good idea especially in silty conditions. It also requires annual lubricating under the bellows.

Point is no matter what you choose it will require "checking and maintenance" so if this is a problem I strongly suggest creating an access port for maintenance whatever you choose.

Dave Neptune
My seal does not have a water line and requires no routine maintenance at all. Not having a hose to either vent air or have water injected into it means the seal can trap air, so when the boat is hauled or after scuba diving that might get air up in it you need to burp it.
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:56 PM
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I survived that haul-out...

Had no room for dripless, so here's the traditional, with the precious split hub... easy to assemble myself, and fun with feeler gauges and more. But I had waited to long to notice the little "wobble" so it had time to grind away on the shaft log -- it had to be re-fiber-glassed (?). I pulled off the old stuffing box hose to see it was just about to open up a hole to the sea. Yikes. So get on it and submit you photo of shiny new drive train? Note I have no room to replace stuffing... I have to block the boat higher and pull it all apart ha ha to do that.
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Old 11-22-2022, 09:28 PM
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I think I have stuffing box envy.
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  #30   IP: 70.160.104.65
Old 01-18-2023, 04:55 PM
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She's in the yards now. I'm having someone do this job- to much contortion for me.

Tomorrow they start work on it. I have all replacement parts except the shaft: split coupler, regular stuffing box, even a cutless if needed.

I'll report back how it goes.

Thanks fellas, especially Neil for the suggestions.
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  #31   IP: 70.168.217.162
Old Yesterday, 09:14 AM
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Turns out the key was brass. The mechanic said that it usually is stainless. The brass said it all- as it was scrunched. Shaft is fine.

He pulled the shaft, installed the new cutless, and today the stuffing box and split coupler.

Besides a PO shifting at full throttle could the brass key be scrunched up by a misalignment?
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  #32   IP: 162.245.50.205
Old Yesterday, 03:10 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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My opinion

Bill, yes I think it would. If the shaft "moves" at all in the coupling because of the misalignment the "torque" against the "key" would oscillate from end to end ever be it so slightly. The brass is far softer and much more malleable than steel or stainless steel and would eventually break down, mostly because the brass is not strong enough in the first place. A set screw will not aid much in holding because it is at a single point. A split coupling would reduce this quite a bit but because of clamping pressure however it may indeed still break down. The "key" takes the torque and needs to be strong enough to resist.

Look at older OB lower units. The gears were protected by the "key way" or aptly named "shear pin" incase of an over revving gear shift or a prop strike.

Dave Neptune
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