Ignition Problem - clicking click

[BenCT]

I have what I think is a layup question for the forum. So I got my A4 engine up and running on Sunday, but today it won and wouldn’t start. I turned on the ignition no gauges turned on and when I hit the starter button all I heard was a click. I checked the batteries they were fine and made sure all my boat power was on, but the engine only gave me a click when I tried again. The blower works. Normally when I turn on the ignition the fuel gauge turns on this time it didn’t. I assume that means something. I’m going to get one of those remote engine starter buttons tomorrow and see if that helps. From what I’ve read it sounds like it could be a wire to the ignition or maybe my starter. Any thoughts?

[ndutton]

As a starting point I recommend checking the integrity of the wire terminations including the battery cables, positive and ground for tightness. Please try to resist guessing and instead apply good troubleshooting technique and logic. With a good tester, trace where the power is good starting at the battery and follow the circuit downstream up to where the power is not good. The problem will be right there.

Based on your description I'll be interested to hear if the power is getting to - and through - the ignition switch.

[joe_db]

What he said!
I am guessing some major connection like the ground wire has gotten loose or corroded.

[Dave Neptune]

What Neil said and check the plug. The A-4 came from the factory with a "plug in harness" to connect to the ignition/gage panel. We here call it the "trailer plug". It is a plug just like the lights plug on a trailer for your car and it is notorious for causing problems as it is not sealed and corrodes with time. It can cause all kinds of intermittent problems. If you find a voltage drop the plug should be checked. Many of us have eliminated it or re-wired the engine circuits.

Most electrical issues can be traced to bad grounds on boats so start there.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

In support of Dave's post, here's a picture of a compromised engine harness plug.

[BenCT]

Thanks for all the feedback. I’m going to try all these paths and I’ll let you know what I find out.

[msmith10]

Agree with all above. Also, how did you test the battery? Just checking the voltage isn't enough. You need to check voltage under load. A shot battery can still read normal voltage with a voltmeter.
I don't endorse Harbor Freight tools very often, but they do sell a cheap (maybe $35- 40) load tester that's good enough and handy to have.

[Al Schober]

I think I recommended previously a multimeter. Did you get one? The juice from the battery isn't getting where it has to go, or it's not getting back to the battery. YOU need the meter so YOU can figure out why! If you don't know why, you don't know what to replace. Replacing EVERYTHING can get very expensive.

[BenCT]

I’m still troubleshooting. This will be an interesting thread once I make more progress, let’s leave it at I’m pretty sure it isn’t the batteries as I bought new ones and had a fun time carrying the 3 of them up a 10 ft laddder today. The engine won again today, but I’m making progress. My back…not so much. Getting the harbor freight load tester, for the future, have the remote starter, next I’m going to get better at the light thingy I bought today. PO left me a new solenoid so if that turns out to be the issue I have it ready to go. Still just clicking though.

[BenCT]

Since winter was finally starting to threaten with serious cold temps and I’m still learning the engine I called in a mechanic to winterize it. He said the starter is shot and that I need someone to rebuild the starter. So that’s where I am for now.

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by BenCT

Since winter was finally starting to threaten with serious cold temps and I’m still learning the engine I called in a mechanic to winterize it. He said the starter is shot and that I need someone to rebuild the starter. So that’s where I am for now.

So did the engine get winterized?
I bet the starter is NOT shot. They are pretty tough! Do you know if it is new or old style?
(I have had exceedingly bad luck the few times mechanics looked at my engine, they seem confused by A4s at best)

[joe_db]

Another thing - it isn't hard to take the starter off, why not bring it home and see what it does?

[Al Schober]

Starters are not high tech. Some brushes and a commutator are the electrical parts - none of which were intended for marine use.
Is the commutator clean? If not, get some sandpaper and clean it. How do the brushes look? Long enough (they do wear)? How are the springs that hold the brushes against the commutator? They're just high carbon steel, will corrode and fail (particularly if the starter has been submerged in bilge water).
If the brushes or the brush rigging in questionable, you may need the help of an auto electrical place to source replacement parts.
I would encourage you to get away from hiring a mechanic. You should become the mechanic.
Do you have a multimeter yet? You say you've bought a battery load tester. Curiously, I have over 30 years Atomic 4 experience and never felt the need to buy a battery load tester.

[BenCT]

I appreciate all the input. The engine is winterized now. I will take the starter home and see what happens. I was thinking of taking other pieces of the engine home and cleaning up. I’m thinking pretty much anything I can remove.
Per the battery load tester, I picked up one for $40 from harbor freight that was a suggestion of another A4ian.

[joe_db]

Originally Posted by BenCT

I appreciate all the input. The engine is winterized now. I will take the starter home and see what happens. I was thinking of taking other pieces of the engine home and cleaning up. I’m thinking pretty much anything I can remove.
Per the battery load tester, I picked up one for $40 from harbor freight that was a suggestion of another A4ian.

I still don't get how it got winterized without being run
I have a battery load tester. I use it sometimes to load the system and read max amps out of the alternator.
As for testing batteries, it is a somewhat crude measurement. It will show up a really shot battery for sure, but they can get fairly bad and still pass.

[edwardc]

Originally Posted by joe_db

I still don't get how it got winterized without being run ...

You use a small pump, such as a drill pump or fountain pump.:
1. Remove the thermostat and replace the cover & hoses.
2. Clamp off the bypass.
3. Disconnect the hose from the water injection point and put it in a bucket.
4. Disconnect the hose from the raw water pump outlet and hook it to the drill pump's outlet.
5. Put the hose from the drill pump intake into a jug of antifreeze,
6. Run the drill pump until pink comes out into the catch bucket.

You should also pull the drain plug on your waterlift muffler, if it has one, or at least dump some antifreeze into it.

A bit more involved than running the engine to winterize, but not bad.