water in oil from exhaust?

[joe_db]

I used to use galvanized. It *stinks* for the first few hours and the stinky gas will make you sick
* the illness is called metal fume fever. I never caught it, I would motor around with all the cockpit hatched open until it burned off. Now I know better

[afsam94]

thanks again to all

Following consultation w my partner I have ordered this:

https://moyermarine.com/product/exhaust-hot-section-with-water-entry-fitting-catalina-style-exht_01-0_562/

I will need to extend the piece immediately after the manifold flange a bit so the riser starts up AFTER the engine cowling and is actually in the engine compartment of my Grampian. Yes I could save money constructing this at plumbing supply but timing does not allow.

More comments are always welcome.

Thanks

Al

[afsam94]

partial view of muffler for Ken

partial view of muffler for Ken

[JOHN COOKSON]

If you use a union when you install the new Moyer hot section piece it will make life vastly easier - assuming you have room that is.
It would look like this: New flange, short nipple, union, short nipple, coupling, new Moyer hot section.

TRUE GRIT

[ndutton]

afsam, can you please provide a picture of the entire muffler and if possible, the hose run to the transom?

[afsam94]

Apologies for the delay. This provides an update and a question. After discussion with Ken (and sending him a full muffler Picture which he identified as water lift) I moved forward to cancel the Catalina hot piece I ordered and Ken arranged to send just the flange at the manifold and barbed angled raw water cooling input both of which I have received. This evening I bought a collection of black iron pipe pieces to create the upward loop specified in the drawing ken provided. I'll post a picture of what I am building Tuesday evening. Will not be able to spend much time here going forward. I will build a loop that runs exhaust upward as high as possible at the earliest convenient point beyond the manifold and back down to prevent back flow then to where the water will enter but still high enough for the exhaust/water mix to flow downward to the muffler then down from there to the stern exhaust (still about 8 inches above the water line).

These days what is the best high temp sealant to use at the flange and iron pipe connections? I will buy pipe insulation tape to cover the whole affair (like pictures above) at a local marine store.

thank you

Al

[joe_db]

Apologies for the delay. This provides an update and a question. After discussion with Ken (and sending him a full muffler Picture which he identified as water lift) I moved forward to cancel the Catalina hot piece I ordered and Ken arranged to send just the flange at the manifold and barbed angled raw water cooling input both of which I have received. This evening I bought a collection of black iron pipe pieces to create the upward loop specified in the drawing ken provided. I'll post a picture of what I am building Tuesday evening. Will not be able to spend much time here going forward. I will build a loop that runs exhaust upward as high as possible at the earliest convenient point beyond the manifold and back down to prevent back flow then to where the water will enter but still high enough for the exhaust/water mix to flow downward to the muffler then down from there to the stern exhaust (still about 8 inches above the water line).

These days what is the best high temp sealant to use at the flange and iron pipe connections? I will buy pipe insulation tape to cover the whole affair (like pictures above) at a local marine store.

thank you

Al

I just get the pipes tight and they don't seem to leak. YMMV

[Antibes]

No sealant, the threads "seal" with a little rust

[afsam94]

Thanks for the sealant tip, flange as well?

Does the absence of need for sealant on the black pipe exhaust also apply to the Flange I bought from Moyer? I notice a gasket with the flange. Does it require some kind of goop?

[Dave Neptune]

Use the flange gasket. Just skip putting anything on the tapered pipe threads and they will rust sealed in just a few starts. This also makes getting the "TWIST" right for pointing pipes and fittings in the right direction. If it is a bit loose it won't be for long. In this case rust is a good thing.

Dave Neptune

[afsam94]

thanks again to all

thanks again to all

[afsam94]

Progress picture - Ordered exhaust insulation wrap kit.

Getting the old flange off was brutal. Snapped the head off one of the old flange bolts with breaker bar leaving 1/2" of old bolt shaft protruding from the manifold. I thought it was the end of the road for me because there was no easy way to get it out. Fortunately my good friend Bob had a tool he had never used: a "stud extractor." With the heat of an acetylene torch making it cherry red first and the extractor tool he was able to unscrew the little stub of a stud.

Accompanying picture shows the new exhaust parts in position but not tightened yet. I just ordered the exhaust wrap kit. Looking for feed back about what you see here.

[ndutton]

Now we're gettin' somewhere

The only suggestion I have is use 3/8-16 stainless set screws with external washers and hex nuts instead of hex head machine screws for the flange attachment. Your broken bolt experience will never be repeated.

[Whippet]

great progress

The design looks to be "by the book" and can appreciate your hard work to remove old flange.

What are your plans for the remaining section all the way to the transom? I've heard of failing old exhaust hose - so seems a new section in order. Classic design calls for another rise after the waterlift.

Good luck!

[ndutton]

Steve raises a good question. Now that you have the hot section in order, what is the configuration from there to the transom? Is it a straight downhill run or is there a rise in it?