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  #1   IP: 174.21.8.249
Old 03-11-2021, 09:11 AM
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Extra OPSS? Facet Install

Greetings. Currently in mid-install of a new carb and Facet fuel pump. Thanks to MMI and forum for the gear and wisdom. Boat is a Ranger 29 so basically no access. After much yoga and dialogue the old parts are out and new are going in. I’m having trouble getting the brass plug out aft of fuel pump for the OPSS. Weighing options and looking at the alternative ports. The forward port with the oil sending unit already has a T with what appears to be another (old and gnarly) OPSS. One terminal has two purple wires, first immediately grounds on the flywheel cover, the second runs back to what appears to be a pressure switch on the original (now fresh water) water pump. The other lead, also purple, ends up going to the wiring harness. Question one is what is the interconnection between the oil pressure and water pressure, what is this set up doing? Second question is can I run the existing function of that old OPSS and the new Facet pump through the same OPSS at this location? I will be taking it all apart to clean the existing nipple, T and sensor. I could add the new OPSS that came with the kit with another T which seems to be overly gangly and may be impossible considering the access limitations and leads to the second question. Can I simply replace the old OPSS with the new one and run both the fuel pump and existing function through one? Finally if anyone has a suggestion on easing out the aft port plug send me a message or post it. Thank you in advance for any advice. TL
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Last edited by Theo Lewis; 03-11-2021 at 09:12 AM. Reason: Autofill error
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  #2   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 03-11-2021, 10:34 AM
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It sounds to me like you're looking at an oil pressure switch for an alarm system, completely unrelated to the fuel pump. This opinion is further supported by the mystery switch being electrically daisy chained to a water system temperature switch, the normal second parameter monitored by the basic alarm system. There should be a buzzer in the wiring loop too.
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  #3   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 03-11-2021, 10:45 AM
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Pipe threads are weak in a vibration/fatigue environment. Hanging multiple sensors/switches off one thread always bothered me. I finally ran a grease gun extension tube (1/8 npt, inexpensive at Home Depot) from the block to a bulkhead mounted manifold. This manifold had the pressure sender, the OPSS, and a mechanical gauge. The manifold has to be grounded to the block for the pressure sender to work.
Removing the slotted pipe plugs is easier if you can get an impact screwdriver in there. Replace them with plugs that have a female hex socket.
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Theo Lewis (03-11-2021)
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Old 03-11-2021, 01:37 PM
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Impact screwdriver here I come. I had no idea one existed.

I did read the instructions from Mr. Moyer on the pump install where he notes the impact driver, by impact driver I figured he meant a small powered impact wrench. I do have a small Milwaukee impact wrench that is marketed as an “impact driver”. Really it is a bit driver. It isn’t huge but no way is it getting to that plug without some serious sawzall.

On the daisy chain that makes perfect sense, it’s two circuits looping back to source through the same path. High water temp or low oil pressure triggers a ground and activates the buzzer. Thank you both.

If the impact driver fails, it is bulkhead mount for me.
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Old 03-24-2021, 10:34 PM
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another Ranger29 A4...

I thought you'd enjoy seeing a photo of my Ranger 29 A4's Oil Sensor/OPSS with purple wire to the fuel pump... I have great access portside to the engine but everyone puts one leg on these connections to do any work -- see how they are bent. I'd like to change it over so the connections are "up" instead of "out" and the parts are updated. The cabinetry over the engine all lifts out of the way and I appreciate that! I have placed the Facet fuel pump off-engine, in the cabinet under the nav berth deck. Nice access.
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Last edited by DDO; 03-24-2021 at 10:36 PM. Reason: added a note about mounting the fuel pump
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Theo Lewis (04-18-2021)
  #6   IP: 97.126.121.249
Old 04-18-2021, 12:46 AM
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Thanks to all!

Thanks to everyone who chipped in with the info. This was a great success. If all the cabinetry were invisible my A4 would look identical to the Moyer 3D engine picture..minus the slick paint. Neil was exactly correct, my mystery switch is an old pressure switch for an alarm system. Reverse function compared to the OPSS for the Facet fuel pump. It is a two contact switch, one side is connected to ground, terminals connect if the oil pressure drops triggering the alarm. It was confusing because it was wired half-backwards, one side had the lead to the buzzer (good, worked for oil pressure), the other was connected to the water temp limit and ground (bad) which meant the temp limit hasn’t worked for the prior owner (or owners). Based on the crud and corrosion I would say for more than a decade.

Leaving some breadcrumbs here for others, especially Ranger 29 owners and others with a tight fit..

I did purchase one of those handheld impact screwdrivers to get the oil plug out. The plugs need a size 11 slotted head driver or bit but an 8-10 will work. I drilled a 1” access hole in the wall of the quarterberth locker to access the oil plug. After about 45 min of whacking away with the impact screwdriver from various angles and with different hammers I was defeated. Unless you have the ability to have decent leverage and purchase it is a no go. As I was gathering my belongings to head for the hardware store for supplies for a bulkhead install I decided to sift my tools one last time. I was able to connect a series of bit extensions then a longer bit into my handheld impact driver. Tic tic tic tic for about 30 sec and it was out.
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Last edited by Theo Lewis; 04-18-2021 at 02:14 AM.
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Old 04-18-2021, 02:11 AM
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Last shots

Here’s a last shot or two for perspective. Doing this in a Ranger 29 is like figuring out 6 Chinese finger puzzles at once. Everything is uninstalled and comes out the aft access then new parts must be inserted in placement order from aft, dropped and left in the engine tray then installed in the necessary order considering what can be accessed through the grim fore and aft access. Clean as now is the best access you will ever have. Install all fittings to components and engine. Insert all components into the channel, install fuel pump first, then scavenger, carb, spark arrester, oil pressure alarm sender and sensor, fuel lines, OPSS, OPSS wiring, brackets and finally linkage. I ended up replacing the entire fuel system from the tank forward, added a Racor as well as the rest. Boat is no longer a fire hazard, port side of engine is no longer covered in a slurry of gas and motor oil. My hands are covered in cuts and scrapes from the tight quarters but the engine starts immediately and purrs like a sewing machine. Feeling great about taking my family and friends out on the water this weekend.
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Last edited by Theo Lewis; 04-18-2021 at 02:41 AM.
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  #8   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 04-18-2021, 08:33 PM
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I don't like having all that oil pressure stuff hanging off one 1/8" pipe nipple. I added a grease gun hose and moved them all off the engine.
With your system, the nipple will fail and the OPSS will stop the engine before all the oil is gone. Might take a minute for the float bowl to run dry. There WILL be a mess to clean up. I hope your boat isn't in a perilous position when it happens.
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Old 04-18-2021, 11:16 PM
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Congrats on all your work: I so appreciate your TLC given to a Ranger29 and Atomic4, and I posted the photo above. So, if you have any energy left, I really would encourage you to carve out a way to have better access. One of the first things I did on my Ranger29 is re-make the cabinet and stairs to lift completely off for engine work, and it is still the smartest thing I did. Maybe you can design something.
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