#1
IP: 75.45.240.231
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In process of rebuilding carb - Any tips or tricks?
I am in the process of going through my 68 series Zenith. Glad I did, as I don't think the motor would have run well with it and the condition it was in. Any tips tricks or things to watch out for ?
I assume I can leave it natural finish? No reason to repaint ? Thanks Derek.- |
#2
IP: 71.252.15.2
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Derek,
I also responded to your other thread (ignition). Series 68 is getting too technical for me. Late model or early model? I took my carb apart and rebuilt it, and it made a world of difference. I was not able to remove my fixed jet without damaging it, so I blasted it with carb cleaner. I chose to soak mine in the one gallon parts cleaner solution that you buy from Autozone (or equivalent) and repaint it. It is some type of alloy so I do not think rust is an issue on the carb itself if you leave it natural.
__________________
-Shawn "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109 "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!) |
#3
IP: 75.45.240.231
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Its the later model unit.
I have it soaking in paint thinner right now. Have most of it apart, even the throttle blade screws came out without a fight - will blow out with compressed air before it goes back together. Took lots of pics to document where everything is. D.- |
#4
IP: 170.200.168.15
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Here is a shot of the carb - not terrible, but enough munge to cause starting/running problems. The question now is what to do with the fuel in the tank - gauge says its about 1/4 full. Any ideas ?
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#5
IP: 68.55.65.114
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Hey, you stole my Carb!
If I had taken a picture of my carb it would have looked just like that. I used carb cleaner and then followed up with a screwdriver (gentle) and wood popsicle sticks to get the gunk out. Like the other person, I didn't have a good way to get the one jet out, but replaced all the other parts and started the engine last night (other posts to follow). She started right up and idled better than ever. It only took me about 1.5 hours to really get all of it cleaned out and the junk out.
(I pulled the engine and did a valve job and re-machined the head. - well had that work done at a local machine/engine shop). I need to post before/after pics because I was shocked how well the engine started after runnning really poorly (or not starting at all) last year.
__________________
David H Pearson 30 Annapolis, MD |
#6
IP: 66.108.48.122
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Clean that sucker out.
I cleaned our late model Zenith carb out last fall using mostly aerosol Carb cleaner. Surprisingly ours was not that badly varnished but there was enough to justify doing the job.
I was unable to get the old float valve seat out so I just cleaned the old one out and I have a new one for the next time I overhaul it. I was wondering about using some PB Blaster to loosen up the valve seat but there are some small rubber gaskets in the fittings so I did not go that route - I just sprayed out all the jets and re-used everything except the gasket. On Don M.'s advice I added a scavenger tube to the bottom of the carb that connects to a spacer block that connects the carb to the manifold (cost was around $50 for parts). We were having some issues with fuel leaking out of our flame arrestor. The float pin needs to be oriented such that the flat side rests on the float and the conical end points into the valve, it wont work oriented the other way - don't ask me how I found this out. Happy cleaning. You'll be glad you did. |
The Following User Says Thank You to CalebD For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (09-10-2020) |
#7
IP: 75.45.240.231
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I think I already have a scavenge tube on my motor - see pic. Can you elaborate on the float pin issue?
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#8
IP: 216.120.197.130
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Float Valve
In the picture, you see the float valve (or float "pin") installed correctly. The float valve needle has a squarish end showing and the needle or beveled end sticks into the valve. The pointy end often has rubber tip to seal better.
This is the thing that shuts off the flow of gas when the carb bowl is full, so the beveled end has to fit against the valve seat to make a good seal. In this picture you can see the beveled end of the float valve needle: Last edited by marthur; 04-23-2009 at 01:12 PM. Reason: spelling! |
#9
IP: 208.71.0.56
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Great photos!
Marthur,
Great photos of a clean carb/float valve etc. Any other photos of the innards of a carb would be very useful when re-build time comes around.
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Rick Powers Palo Alto, CA 1976 Catalina 27 |
#10
IP: 99.204.156.11
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Rick-
MARTHUR has all of the pics posted at http://home.earthlink.net/~ultratom/...rb_rebuild.htm Another good site is http://www.geocities.com/atomfour/carb.html Enjoy! -Jerry |
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (09-10-2020) |
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