Return to the home page...

Go Back   Moyer Marine Atomic 4 Community - Home of the Afourians > Discussion Topics > Drive Train / Propellers

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1   IP: 173.180.27.222
Old 05-04-2016, 05:37 PM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Prop size.

Name:  coil.jpg
Views: 1590
Size:  89.6 KBI have a 1972 Columbia 30 which has an atomic 4 with a Walter V-drive and 2:1 ratio. Under the coil, the engine bears the stamp UJ-5 UF (The U and F are overlapped) as in my attached photo.
My question is regarding my prop. It is a 15 x 9 RH prop and the C-30 owners manual called for a 16 x 9 RH prop.
Does my prop have to work harder than a 16 x 9 prop to move the boat 9 inches forward, and result in more load on the engine trying to push the boat, or do I simply have less push from the prop?

On a separate note I have been suffering the issue of shutdowns after 1 hr. of cruising and read the notes re. adding a ballast resistor before the coil to protect it and the EI from getting fried. I used Neil's spreadsheet formula and bought a 1.2 ohm resistor.
I was going to put the resistor on the plus lead going into the coil but have read elsewhere on the forum that when other circuits are also using this plus terminal to supply 12v to whatever, that the resistor needs to go on the minus lead (black) between the coil and the EI
Doesn't this mean that the resistor is now after the coil and not doing what it intended for?
Surely if I fit the leads from the plus side of the coil to the new resistor, and the other end of the resistor to plus side of the coil, only the coil will be affected by the resistor .
Any advice appreciated.
Reply With Quote
  #2   IP: 71.118.13.238
Old 05-04-2016, 06:27 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grove, Oklahoma
Posts: 5,035
Thanks: 711
Thanked 1,289 Times in 839 Posts
Shrek, the best way to choose a prop is to check where you are with a tach and a reasonably well tuned engine. You should achieve red-line at WOT and be able to cruise in the intermediate ranges. This is a basic on any marine power plant.

You need to establish the target RPM for your app then you can go from there either up or down in pitch and diameter.

You can check the load with a vac gage and a set RPM point for actual loads on the engine.

It will take about the same power to move your boat 6kts no matter the prop. IE lets say it takes 15HP to move you at 6kts with either prop you mentioned. However they will achieve the 15HP load at different RPM's and throttle (vacuum) settings. And yes there will be a slight variation in frictional drag on bigger blades using a tiny bit more or less power.

Example, my boat cruises at 5.9 kts with my Indigo prop and at the same speed with my 12x10 2 blade. They are both absorbing the same power from the A-4 at 5. kts however the 2 blade does so at 1550 (6" of vac) RPM's and the Indigo at 2,100 (10" of vac) RPM's. The engine is just having an easier time making the 15HP at higher RPM which eases the crank load and engine stress.

Dave Neptune
Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post:
ArtJ (05-24-2016), HalcyonS (12-13-2016), Shrek (05-05-2016)
  #3   IP: 71.118.13.238
Old 05-04-2016, 06:30 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grove, Oklahoma
Posts: 5,035
Thanks: 711
Thanked 1,289 Times in 839 Posts
Cool Coil

How many power take offs are on the positive post? And what is the voltage at the post when up and running?

Dave Neptune
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-05-2016)
  #4   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-04-2016, 07:25 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking Since any advice is appreciated

Mine is to get all that stuff off of coil+ and run separate circuits. IMO the ignition circuit is too important and sensitive to be shared with voltage robbing accessories.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-05-2016)
  #5   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-04-2016, 08:01 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
My question is regarding my prop. It is a 15 x 9 RH prop and the C-30 owners manual called for a 16 x 9 RH prop.
Does my prop have to work harder than a 16 x 9 prop to move the boat 9 inches forward, and result in more load on the engine trying to push the boat, or do I simply have less push from the prop?
To answer your question, the slightly smaller diameter prop is a little easier on the engine and results in slightly higher RPM for the same speed.

Quote:
. . . . but have read elsewhere on the forum that when other circuits are also using this plus terminal to supply 12v to whatever, that the resistor needs to go on the minus lead (black) between the coil and the EI
Doesn't this mean that the resistor is now after the coil and not doing what it intended for?
The coil is part of a complete circuit and it doesn't care where the resistor is in the circuit. Putting the resistor in the '-' side reduces the current in the coil only (good, up to a point). Putting it in the '+' side affects all circuits connected there (not so good when all you're trying to do is manage the coil amperage).

edit:
And FYI while I agree that all those wires on the coil are a fright (and more common than anyone wants to admit), the only things that 'rob' voltage are poor connections and wire insufficient (too small) for the load combined with circuit length. That's basic electricity 101. Size the wire properly and there's no concern. If the subject is difficult or confusing just let us know, we can help.

references for those so inclined:
ABYC E-9.14e (1) through (4)
National Electric Code 210.19(A)(1) FPN No. 4
Blue Seas treatment on voltage drop https://www.bluesea.com/resources/53...e_Sizing_Chart
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others

Last edited by ndutton; 05-05-2016 at 11:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Bratina (05-24-2016), Shrek (05-05-2016)
  #6   IP: 173.180.27.222
Old 05-05-2016, 11:39 AM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Here is a better view of my attempt to understand my coil wiring. (see new photo) from the + terminal we have the red wire going to the EI module in the Distributor. From the minus terminal we have the black wire going to the EI module in the Distributor and the grey wire which should be going to the Tach.
Then also attached to the + of the coil we have 3 purple wires which I assume, due to their colour, are Ignition related and my ignition sw., is inside the cabin, the Starter sw. in the cockpit, and the Alternator in the engine compartment. I also have an Ammeter.
I believe the other red wire on the coil + comes from the Alternator. I have not traced all of these wires yet but I do know that one of the purple wires is terminated on the ignition switch, which also has a red wire and a black wire on it. Presumably these are a Batt +ve and a Ground.Name:  coil2.jpg
Views: 1787
Size:  99.3 KB
My new rigging is being tweaked up today as the installation is finalized and the running rigging is changed out today as well. I will try to find time to trace all of these wires and see where they all go. Then I will report back on my findings.
Forgive my ignorance but surely if I leave all of these wires bunched together on one end of the new resistor and attach the other end of the resistor to the coil +, would not the coil be the only thing affected by the added load of the resistor?
I followed the directions given on this forum and input the test results into Neil's calculator and deduced that I needed a 1.1 ohm resistor, but was only able to find a 1.2 ohm example which I hope will do the job.

Thanks as always for any advice given - now, where should I put that resistor???
Gordon Foster (Shrek)
Reply With Quote
  #7   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-05-2016, 11:47 AM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
Forgive my ignorance but surely if I leave all of these wires bunched together on one end of the new resistor and attach the other end of the resistor to the coil +, would not the coil be the only thing affected by the added load of the resistor?
I followed the directions given on this forum and input the test results into Neil's calculator and deduced that I needed a 1.1 ohm resistor, but was only able to find a 1.2 ohm example which I hope will do the job.

Thanks as always for any advice given - now, where should I put that resistor???
Not so ignorant, you are absolutely correct. A buss bar for your ignition wires would certainly tidy things up. BTW, there is no ground on the ignition switch so trace those wires carefully.

To your knowledge, has this coil EVER been involved in a shut down?
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-06-2016)
  #8   IP: 173.180.27.222
Old 05-05-2016, 12:01 PM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply. This coil has never shut down and the resistor will be added before I take the boat back home to my own marina, 4-5 hours away. The other coils which I believe shut me down have all been deep sixed, as they can no longer be trusted, even from their cooled down resistance readings.
I hope this resistor addition will be the end of my shut down woes and I would like to rewire the a-4 with Moyers rewire kit very soon, should help th tidy up the mess.
I will report my findings later. Busy finishing off the splendid re-rigging job. Photo's will follow. Got it done by the best guy in the area with 30 yrs. rigging/racing experience.
GF
Reply With Quote
  #9   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-05-2016, 01:10 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
After your rigging is done I recommend analyzing the ignition circuit for wire size. You have 5 wires on the coil '+' post and at least one supplies the power to the system via the ignition switch. You'll need to determine what the loads are on the remaining four, total the loads and insert the number and the circuit length into the voltage drop calculator found in the ABYC and USCG Standards forum category.

Since you used our calculator you can figure 3.4 amps for the engine ignition (EI system) and 3 amps is a safe estimate for the alternator excite wire. Beyond that you'll have to trace where the wires go and determine their loads if any. Your goal is no greater than a 3% voltage drop on the entire circuit.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Administrator (05-05-2016), Shrek (05-06-2016)
  #10   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-05-2016, 03:30 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
Here is a better view of my attempt to understand my coil wiring. (see new photo) from the + terminal we have the red wire going to the EI module in the Distributor. From the minus terminal we have the black wire going to the EI module in the Distributor and the grey wire which should be going to the Tach.
Then also attached to the + of the coil we have 3 purple wires which I assume, due to their colour, are Ignition related and my ignition sw., is inside the cabin, the Starter sw. in the cockpit, and the Alternator in the engine compartment. I also have an Ammeter.
I believe the other red wire on the coil + comes from the Alternator. I have not traced all of these wires yet but I do know that one of the purple wires is terminated on the ignition switch, which also has a red wire and a black wire on it. Presumably these are a Batt +ve and a Ground.Attachment 11677
My new rigging is being tweaked up today as the installation is finalized and the running rigging is changed out today as well. I will try to find time to trace all of these wires and see where they all go. Then I will report back on my findings.
Forgive my ignorance but surely if I leave all of these wires bunched together on one end of the new resistor and attach the other end of the resistor to the coil +, would not the coil be the only thing affected by the added load of the resistor?
I followed the directions given on this forum and input the test results into Neil's calculator and deduced that I needed a 1.1 ohm resistor, but was only able to find a 1.2 ohm example which I hope will do the job.

Thanks as always for any advice given - now, where should I put that resistor???
Gordon Foster (Shrek)
The better picture of the coil "ganglia" introduces the possibility that a too small wire may be feeding multiple users and that is a big no-no in propagation of electrical "trees". To clean things up I suggest the introduction of a buss bar fed from as close to the batteries as possible, probably from batt switch common or a main buss bar if you have one (I use a #8 just to make sure I have capacity for expansion). From that buss bar send a dedicated #14 to the resistor, thence to coil+ with nothing else along for the ride. Then feed the other items from the buss bar.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
edwardc (05-05-2016), Shrek (05-05-2016)
  #11   IP: 209.52.88.140
Old 05-05-2016, 05:16 PM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Very busy day today and tomorrow doing the running rigging, adding mainsail reefing and lazy jacks. Thanks for all the support and I will report back when I can get a breath in.
GF
Reply With Quote
  #12   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-05-2016, 09:54 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
You're not alone

Gordon, here are a few pictures from this forum showing that your coil stack is pretty common. I'm posting these uncredited to protect the innocent.

Name:  Coil wires 1.jpg
Views: 1089
Size:  49.1 KB Name:  Coil Connections.jpg
Views: 1033
Size:  45.1 KB Name:  Coil wires 2.jpg
Views: 1029
Size:  38.5 KB

Something I wanted to point out in your recent picture, something to think about when you get around to rewiring, something to avoid. The circled area shows wires run over a sharp edge, a virtual guaranty of a future chafe-through and circuit failure.

Name:  Wire chafe.jpg
Views: 1006
Size:  112.4 KB
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Administrator (05-06-2016), Shrek (05-06-2016)
  #13   IP: 107.0.6.150
Old 05-05-2016, 11:19 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking No Need to Protect The Innocent

The picture in the middle is my boat, Destiny. I did not mean to suggest that no wires other than the feed to coil+ and the black EI wire should be on the coil. There are numerous other wires on both coil terminals that need to be there - but they should not be big load carriers such as pumps/blowers etc. On my coil, the picture in the middle, on coil- we have the black wire from the EI and the sensing wire from the tachometer (almost no load). At coil+ I have the red wire from the EI, the pink wire from the "R" terminal on the solenoid, the supply wire for the tachometer, the power feed from the resistor, and voltage sensing wire (the white one) so I can monitor voltage at coil+. This voltage remains steady because no significant loads are fed from coil+ except the ignition.

Last edited by hanleyclifford; 07-13-2016 at 08:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #14   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-05-2016, 11:29 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking

BTW, Neil is right about those wires running over the head and down over a corner - between chafing and dry out from heat they could have a short life. If you can do it, it is best to re locate the coil off the engine to another location, as in the case of two out of three of the "innocent".
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-06-2016)
  #15   IP: 12.17.168.100
Old 05-06-2016, 01:39 AM
roadnsky's Avatar
roadnsky roadnsky is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lake Mead, NV
Posts: 3,104
Thanks: 24
Thanked 467 Times in 309 Posts
As others have noted, I too am a big fan of using a buss bar to take the "load" off of the coil terminals.
Then you can have a nice clean coil install without the "Christmas Extension Cord" effect hanging on your coil...
Attached Images
  
__________________
-Jerry

'Lone Ranger'

1978 RANGER 30
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-06-2016)
  #16   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-06-2016, 11:03 AM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Question

Jerry - How do you feed/sense the tachometer?
Reply With Quote
  #17   IP: 70.192.2.116
Old 05-06-2016, 12:44 PM
tac tac is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Harpswell, Maine
Posts: 209
Thanks: 11
Thanked 80 Times in 56 Posts
Circuit Protection

An alternative to the buss connection is to use a fuse panel, like the Blue Sea 5015 for AGC fuses, or the 5028 for ATOs. This gives the ability to provide protection for each branch circuit based on its wire size.
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to tac For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-08-2016)
  #18   IP: 12.17.168.100
Old 05-06-2016, 01:17 PM
roadnsky's Avatar
roadnsky roadnsky is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lake Mead, NV
Posts: 3,104
Thanks: 24
Thanked 467 Times in 309 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Jerry - How do you feed/sense the tachometer?
The - Terminal of the coil fed from the buss bar.
__________________
-Jerry

'Lone Ranger'

1978 RANGER 30
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to roadnsky For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-08-2016)
  #19   IP: 66.183.144.82
Old 05-08-2016, 09:19 PM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Bus bar in my immediate future

7am at my local marine store tomorrow I will be standing in line for a Blue Sea Systems, bus bar. It will be fed by the main ignition source wire and have all of the stuff on my Christmas Tree coil + terminated on it. It will also have the new wire gong down to the coil + via the 1.2 ohm resistor which will be the only wire directly attached to the coil +ve. (along with the EI +ve.) The coil -ve. will have the Tach. wire and the minus of the EI.
Will post photos as proof of my intended innocence asap.
The rigging job has gone well but been delayed by 20 - 30 MPH winds these last 3 days. All standing rigging is replaced, all bronze turnbuckles replaced with S/S and all running rigging being completed tomorrow (wind permitting). Also adding Lazy jacks, and 2 reefing lines for the mainsail, all new mast wiring and LED lighting, new Windex, new flag halyard on the Stbd spreader, and a new VHF antenna and wiring as well.
Ah well - It's only money !
Thanks, to everyone for the excellent help and guidance along the way (so far).
Gordon Foster
Reply With Quote
  #20   IP: 66.183.144.82
Old 05-10-2016, 12:27 AM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Fingers crossed.

tomorrow will see the end of the new standing / running rigging job and also , hopefully the end of the premature shut down issues.

I used Neil's ballast resistor calculator for my EI and coil and the figures were as follows

Coil resistance with minus wires removed was between 2.9 to 3.1 ohms, so we averaged it out to 3.0 ohms.

Voltage in system at 1000 rpm was 13.77 volts
Voltage at cruising 2000 rpm was 13.86 volts.

When input to the calculator spreadsheet we arrived at 1.1 to 1.2 ohms ballast resistor requirement. The differences in the figures were due to instability in my multimeter's readings, but the different figures still arrive at basically the same value for the ballast resistor no matter what.

I have today removed the Christmas Tree wiring and installed a Blue Sea Systems Bus on the wall of the engine room to feed the circuits which were on the coil +ve. and then I ran a new purple wire from the bus bar through to the coil +ve via the resistor. The positive going to the EI is the only other wire on the coil +ve.
The coil negative side carries only the feed to the EI, and the tach wire.
Hopefully this will be the last of my issue. The engine started and ran fine at the dock - time will tell.
It did sound strangely smoother though. Perhaps a figment of my imagination ???
Gordon.

Last edited by Shrek; 05-10-2016 at 12:28 AM. Reason: grammatical error
Reply With Quote
  #21   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-10-2016, 01:40 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
tomorrow will see the end of the new standing / running rigging job and also , hopefully the end of the premature shut down issues.

I used Neil's ballast resistor calculator for my EI and coil and the figures were as follows

Coil resistance with minus wires removed was between 2.9 to 3.1 ohms, so we averaged it out to 3.0 ohms.

Voltage in system at 1000 rpm was 13.77 volts
Voltage at cruising 2000 rpm was 13.86 volts.

When input to the calculator spreadsheet we arrived at 1.1 to 1.2 ohms ballast resistor requirement. The differences in the figures were due to instability in my multimeter's readings, but the different figures still arrive at basically the same value for the ballast resistor no matter what.

I have today removed the Christmas Tree wiring and installed a Blue Sea Systems Bus on the wall of the engine room to feed the circuits which were on the coil +ve. and then I ran a new purple wire from the bus bar through to the coil +ve via the resistor. The positive going to the EI is the only other wire on the coil +ve.
The coil negative side carries only the feed to the EI, and the tach wire.
Hopefully this will be the last of my issue. The engine started and ran fine at the dock - time will tell.
It did sound strangely smoother though. Perhaps a figment of my imagination ???
Gordon.
Are the voltages in that post taken at coil+, hot and running?
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-10-2016)
  #22   IP: 209.52.88.203
Old 05-10-2016, 02:09 PM
Shrek Shrek is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Richmond (Vancouver) BC, Canada
Posts: 68
Thanks: 89
Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Yes. As I said in my post first at 1000rpm and second at 2000 rpm to represent cruising approx.
Reply With Quote
  #23   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-10-2016, 02:15 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking FWIW

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrek View Post
Yes. As I said in my post first at 1000rpm and second at 2000 rpm to represent cruising approx.
IMO those voltages are too high for coil+
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-10-2016)
  #24   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 05-10-2016, 02:33 PM
ndutton's Avatar
ndutton ndutton is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 9,619
Thanks: 198
Thanked 2,208 Times in 1,425 Posts
Hanley, before this goes too far, it was my interpretation that Gordon's voltage measurements were made to determine a suitable resistor for his system. That is, prior to installation of a resistor.
__________________
Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post:
Shrek (05-10-2016)
  #25   IP: 107.0.6.242
Old 05-10-2016, 08:30 PM
hanleyclifford's Avatar
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
Afourian MVP
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,978
Thanks: 172
Thanked 280 Times in 226 Posts
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Hanley, before this goes too far, it was my interpretation that Gordon's voltage measurements were made to determine a suitable resistor for his system. That is, prior to installation of a resistor.
If that is so, then mea big time culpa.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to hanleyclifford For This Useful Post:
Dusty1 (05-11-2016)
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
what size prop to use whiskey wings Drive Train / Propellers 12 10-25-2015 12:54 PM
What size prop? smp Drive Train / Propellers 15 09-12-2012 08:35 AM
bolt size for prop shaft coupling tartansailboat Drive Train / Propellers 34 09-27-2011 11:08 PM
Proper size and pitch prop for 74 C&C33 MkI kwalters Drive Train / Propellers 6 10-16-2008 05:24 PM
Prop size Sailwood Drive Train / Propellers 8 05-06-2005 02:55 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.


Universal® is a registered trademark of Westerbeke Corporation

Copyright © 2004-2024 Moyer Marine Inc.

All Rights Reserved