Tartan 30 Exhaust

[jacques debauche]

Back in the spring I was up against a problem with our new-to-us Tartan 30 exhaust - it is one of the later boats (#571) with a water lift muffler and water injection immediately after the manifold. This terrible configuration almost guaranteed that cooling water would find its way back into the cylinders, especially at prolonged idle. I wanted to convert the exhaust to the original Tartan 30 configuration with a standpipe and water injection after the exhaust has been brought above sea level. The barrier was the availability of the standpipe - the original copper standpipe is not available. Well, Mr. Moyer came through with a custom-made stainless-steel standpipe based on the original design. It has now been in service for several weeks and works beautifully. The engine can now run at 500 rpm for hours if necessary. The only downside is a somewhat louder exhaust note because the boat doesn't have the flexible muffler which the original Tartan 30s had.

I strongly recommend that owners of later Tartan 30s consider this modification (I can't call it an upgrade, because it's what the Tartan 30 started out with.) I'm sure that Don Moyer would love to hear from you.

[swallace11]

T30 Exhaust

Jacques,

Thanks for posting this. I also have a T30, 1975 Hull 384, and thought the injection elbow at manifold with waterlift muffler below was something the previous owner had installed. Though I did not have problems idling, my two lower spark plugs(#3&4) would fail pre-maturely.Thinking the only possible reason for this to be exhaust water dribbling back to lower part of manifold on startup and shut down, I rebuilt last winter. I found that the injection nozzle had completely corroded away inside the elbow. I replaced with conventional elbow and Moyer injection tee downstream, which given it's 60deg angle should direct water to muffler. Also, the injection tee provides a restriction free exhaust. Before buying Moyer injection tee, I tried to "Rube Goldberg" it with conventional fittings. Don't recommend this. Though costing $40, the injection elbow is a perfectly engineered fitting for the application.

[Qben]

Jacques -
How much did Don charge you for the standpipe? Do you have pictures? Just curious at this point, since I believe I have solve my problems with a slightly different approach. It never occurred to me to have someone fabricate a standpipe.
Glad to hear it's working well for you.
Qben

[jacques debauche]

Tartan 30 standpipe

Qben:

You had better talk to Don Moyer about pricing. A picture is attached - the standpipe is 3 inches in diameter and the shell is about 20 inches long.

Jacques

[Concord]

Pictures

Before and after pictures would be great, my boat has a water lift muffler and has worked great but I would like to see if there is an improved layout.

[jacques debauche]

Tartan 30 Standpipe

I am assuming that you are talking about a Tartan 30 with its special exhaust constraints.

I'll dig around for some pictures, but the story is basically that the 3 inch diameter standpipe sits where you now have the two rubber exhaust hoses which take the wet exhaust above sea level then down to the port side exhaust. The cooling water hose still goes up to the anti-siphon fitting above sea level, but instead of going down to the lift box, now enters the top of the standpipe. Strictly speaking, the anti-siphon isn't needed with this layout, but it was already there and it was easier to hook up the system using it. There is still room (barely!) for the three-inch blower hose to wiggle through the cutout in the head counter. Temperature isn't a problem because the outside of the standpipe doesn't get above cooling water temperature.

The final exhaust hose goes straight from the standpipe to the port exhaust hole. The standpipe entrance and exit are 1 1/4 inch NPT so the original 1 5/8 inch ID hose fits perfectly.

The lift box is no longer needed, but could be left in position because it doesn't get in the way of the new exhaust piping. I took mine out because I don't like extraneous stuff on the boat, and because it's easier to reach the head seacock with the liftbox removed.

From the engine to the standpipe I used 1 1/4 inch 304 stainless fittings. These may cost a bit more than black iron, but I bet that I'll never have to replace them. To make assembly easier, I put a union immediately below the standpipe. I was concerned about the temperature of the "hot" section because it comes close to the midship bulkhead, as well as being within inches of every important wire on the boat (my battery switch is on the bulkhead). However, two wrappings of Mr. Moyer's insulating tape keep the pipe reasonably cool, and a small sheet aluminum deflector between the pipe and the bulkhead gives me even greater piece of mind.

[jacques debauche]

Tratan 30 Standpipe

I "misspoke" concerning the routing of the cooling water hose. In the original layout it did not go from the anti-siphon fitting to the lift box as I accidently said, but to the injection point at an elbow just after the exhaust manifold. In the revised layout the hose goes from the anti-siphon fitting to the top of the standpipe.

[winterhawk]

Good to know.
I have a Yankee 30, my boat came with both a water lift and standpipe. I opted for the standpipe.

I'm happy to know I can get a new one when the time comes.

[Al Schober]

Tartan 30 Exhaust

You may find the following link of interest:

http://marenal.net/T30Exh/T30Exh.htm

Al Schober