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  #1   IP: 68.129.94.164
Old 06-25-2021, 10:06 PM
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Removing thread remnants from copper standpipe muffler

Looking for an exhaust leak that's stinking up the cabin in my T30, I started to unwrap the fiberglass tape, and the nipple above the union disintegrated. However there is still a thin section of the iron pipe threads inside the bottom of the copper standpipe, which seems to be in excellent condition.

The copper is so much softer than the iron, that I'm afraid to get to aggressive trying to extract it, and am thinking of trying to use hydrochloric acid to dissolve the iron, which chemically should work, tho I wonder if all the soot and oxide might passivize the iron or that the HCl might attack the solder.

Has anyone attempted such a repair? Here's a good description of the same repair on another T30, but replacing the copper standpipe with iron. Moyer's SS replacements are out of stock and beyond my means anyway. I'm not sure what's happening inside it and if this all steel repair has any drawbacks.

I'm also wondering if I should use stainless instead of black iron/steel pipe for the hot section, tho maybe 50 years is good enough. It's about twice as expensive, but there is not that much of it, so the cost difference is about $60. The Schedule 80 steel is about $10 more than the SS.
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  #2   IP: 32.211.28.40
Old 06-26-2021, 08:45 PM
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Using acid to dissolve the iron out of the copper seems full of pitfalls - I'd avoid it.
I'd recommend going at the remaining iron pipe with a hacksaw blade, even if you have to cut into the copper a bit. Work at it with a pick then needle nose pliers - the remaining iron will come out. Pipe dope will seal any damage you do to the copper.
Whether to use iron or SS for the new hot section is your choice. Keep in mind that black iron will only last about 7 years and should be replaced at 5 - not a hard job, but still a job.
Exhaust failure at sea means a tow job (have insurance) to a repair facility and then about $1K and change for the repair. This is for replacement with good SS pipe. Fisherman grade repair (soup can and some hose clamps) will be slightly (but not much) less.
Been there!
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