Push Starter has double click, then all electrical power gone, no start

[OfficeMonkey]

Boat: 1973 Ranger 29

Most recent change: installed new late model carburetor, replacing heavily pitted early model carburetor.

Ignoring the mistake in reassembling the early model carburetor that lead to buying the new carburetor unnecessarily and my lack of awareness that barbed hose mounts required clamps and associated minor fuel spills and cleanup...

Process:
Both Battery banks fully charged.
Installed new model carburetor. Mounted scavenge tube from bottom to adapter mount, with tube located towards engine. Installed inline fuel filter and brand new A1 hose between electric fuel pump and carburetor.
Reopen fuel tank.
Ran a cable from battery 1 pos to fuel pump positive at the oil pressure sender.
Fuel pump makes noise. Fuel does not leak. (Not 100% sure fuel reaches carburetor.)
Wait.
Turn on voltage meter hardwired to battery 1 (on USB power; not exactly scientific).
Turn boat power selector switch to Battery 1.
Turn on blower.
Wait 5 minutes.
Turn on Ignition. Analog Instrument Volt Meter shows ~12V and Digital USB Volt Meter show 12.4V.
Press Starter.

Expected: Engine cranks. Hopefully starts.
Actual: Double "click." Blower shuts off and stays off. Digital USB Volt Meter goes blank. Blower stays off until I turn ignition and blower both off, then turn blower back on.

Suspicion: Electric short AFTER the starter solenoid. Starter to solenoid triggers the main electromagnet correctly, closes the circuit. Power flowing across the closed solenoid reaches a path that shorts (probably back to engine ground).

Further: The flame arrestor on the late model carburetor (plus adapter) takes up more space towards forward than the early model carburetor did; the flame arrestor MAY be in incidental contact with the oil pressure sender. I didn't think it was contacting any wires, but may be. If the oil pressure sender power in is in contact with the flame arrestor, I figure it might flow directly through the carburetor into the engine.

However: I don't have a clue about engines and am making all this up.

My current plan is to check conductivity from the oil sender line in to the engine as a first guess (not starting the engine!), but I'm not sure if I'm even on the right track.

Any suggestions? What other systems come online after the starter is tripped but before the starter motor would engage?

[JOHN COOKSON]

Blower stays off until I turn ignition and blower both off, then turn blower back on.[/U]

Sounds like a defective switch or a loose wire to me. I'd try bypassing the switch/wiring.

ex TRUE GRIT

[OfficeMonkey]

Sounds like a defective switch or a loose wire to me. I'd try bypassing the switch/wiring.

ex TRUE GRIT

Which switch? The starter?

[JOHN COOKSON]

What ever you have the volt meter hooked up to when it goes to zero volts. The key? The contact in the key in the on position maybe non functional?

ex TRUE GRIT

Edit: What voltage readings are you getting at the solenoid when the key/button is in the crank position? A remote start switch would be handy for this test.

[OfficeMonkey]

Volt meter is across the connection where Battery 1 connects to the master boat battery switch and negative bus (don't remember specifically where the negative terminates).

I'll see if I can figure out how to put cables on the solenoid contacts.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Disconnect the wire from the button\key to the solenoid at the solenoid. One volt meter lead on this wire the other to ground. Push the button\ twist the key as if to start the engine. This will test to see if the solenoid is getting a valid electrical signal. If the solenoid is not getting a valid electrical signal you will have to work your way back with the volt meter and figure out why.
Don't leave the key in the on or run position when the engine is not running for more than a minute or so or the coil will be fried if the points or EI are closed. You can always disconnect the wire from the key at coil + but be careful - this wire will be hot when the key is in the run position.

ex TRUE GRIT

PS: Welcome to the forum.

[ndutton]

If this were a short you'd be blowing fuses, throwing breakers or melting wires, none of which you report. Based on your description I suspect a loose battery cable connection. Check them thoroughly, all cables and all ends.

[romantic comedy]

You did try the hit it with a hammer fix, right?

[OfficeMonkey]

"Working"!

If this were a short you'd be blowing fuses, throwing breakers or melting wires, none of which you report. Based on your description I suspect a loose battery cable connection. Check them thoroughly, all cables and all ends.

... So I "fixed" it by putting a piece of electrical tape between the oil pressure sender and the flame arrestor. Maybe it would have just worked had I tried it again tonight without any modifications -- but I have a sneaking suspicion I'm missing a fuse somewhere that should have blown.

We sailed the boat for the first two months of ownership with a major 30A fuse wide open -- and all systems working. I wouldn't be surprised if the previous owner(s) may have done something stupid.

You did try the hit it with a hammer fix, right?

Is this a "blinker fluid" prank?

[edwardc]

If this were a short you'd be blowing fuses, throwing breakers or melting wires, none of which you report. Based on your description I suspect a loose battery cable connection. Check them thoroughly, all cables and all ends.

++ This is classic loose cable symptoms.

[Surcouf]

Is this a "blinker fluid" prank?[/QUOTE]

no: this is a typical thing to test on "old" cars, when brushes get worn and dirty... litteraly hit the starter with a hammer (or try to rotate it manually pretty hard on the A4). I used to do that on my 205 Peugeot

But damaged cables / battery connection is more likely

[Antibes]

I was having intermittent issues like that for about two years until I replaced the battery cables. No more loss of power at random times. The cables had degraded over the years and cleaning connections would help, but new ones made a world of difference

[OfficeMonkey]

Thank you, everyone. As far as I have been able to determine, the only issue is the short from the oil pressure sender through the flame arrestor -- with that blocked off, I've had "no" issues, and nothing else I've attempted for diagnosis has resulted in anything suspect.

I have since encountered other more substantial issues like "clouds of smoke from the flame arrestor" and "gasoline leaking out of the flame arrestor" and "oil leaking from the oil pressure sender," so I'm just going to take this as a win and work on those other problems. =]