problem with reversing gear.

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  • weremeer
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 19

    problem with reversing gear.

    Last summer I had a problem with my reversing gear. It is now almost spring and I have gone back to the boat to work on the reversing gear. I had dropped the nut that is loosened to adjust the gear into the tranny housing. I got a magnet to search for the nut. I got the nut out, but the magnet broke off as I was getting the nut off and fell in. So I went with another magnet to get the first magnet. Then both fell in. Meanwhile I got my nut so I put it on and played around with the adjustment. (its not a nut but a bolt.) I feel like a nut. I had a problem with the transmission going into gear. Meanwhile I had two magnets down in casing. Now the disks are out of the gear thing and I am trying to get the transmission out. I am going through the rear. I took off the coupling and I am working on the big nut on the back of the tranny. I cant get it off. I have the tool to get it off, but I cannot hold it while I turn. AM I Turning left to loosen? (Lefty loosy , righty tighty). I have taken the bolts from the coupling and screwed them in tightly to hold the thing but it does not go. Not even with a good hammering. got suggestions. Weremeer Thanks.
  • jhwelch
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 476

    #2
    I had this trouble once and had to borrow a large pipe wrench to hold the collar while I got the nut off with the help of a breaker bar. You don't say if the motor is still in the boat; if it is and in a confined space the wrench probably won't fit.

    Why worry about these fallen magnets? Aren't they stuck to the bottom of the oil pan? If they are not scraping the reversing gear then you might be able to leave them there. What do other people think?

    -Jonathan

    Comment

    • jpian0923
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2010
      • 976

      #3
      There is a lock tab washer that helps hold that nut in place. Make sure you unbend the tab before trying to turn the nut. (see photo)

      If you are facing the nut, from the rear, you would turn it to the left to remove it.

      To get mine off I put it in forward gear, remove flywheel cover, use a pry bar to hold the flywheel (and reversing gear) from spinning And then try removing the shaft nut.

      You might know this already but you didn't have to remove the bolt to adjust the collar. You just need to back it off enough so that you can adjust the collar by one notch.

      To get the magnets out you might try a strong magnet on the outside of the casing and slide it to a position where you can see it/reach it.
      Attached Files
      "Jim"
      S/V "Ahoi"
      1967 Islander 29
      Harbor Island, San Diego
      2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

      Comment

      • weremeer
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2009
        • 19

        #4
        Getting off the bolt.

        Thanks for your advice. When it warms up again,maybe next week, I will try this.

        Comment

        • thatch
          Afourian MVP
          • Dec 2009
          • 1080

          #5
          "Magnets, maybe a good thing?"

          Weremeer,
          I wouldn't worry about those magnets in your pan, in fact they may gather some of the metal particles created by the trans friction plates and reverse band. My oil drain actually is modified with a "magnet stick" to grab any ferrous stuff that might be swimming by.
          Tom

          Comment

          • sastanley
            Afourian MVP
            • Sep 2008
            • 6986

            #6
            weremeer,

            Have you seen those little skinny claw grabbers? They are about $7 at Lowe's. I bought one for the boat since I kept leaving my garage one at the boat. Dunno if it will help you with this issue or not however.

            +1 on the locking tab, and +1 for the pipe wrench. Then, you can try to get the pipe wrench to rest against the hull to lock the shaft. I used a 4' long pipe on my breaker bar and could not break mine loose, but a 1/2" impact gun took it off in about 4 whaps..(whap whap whap whap, burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!) - it took longer to run the extension cord and uncoil the air hose.

            This is a link over to a thread where I went thru this. Post #300 shows my unsuccessful attempt with the long handle.

            jpian - great detailed picture of the problem area.
            -Shawn
            "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
            "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
            sigpic

            Comment

            • edwardc
              Afourian MVP
              • Aug 2009
              • 2491

              #7
              Originally posted by sastanley View Post
              (whap whap whap whap, burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!)
              Impact drivers are magical devices. Almost as good as a sonic screwdriver!
              @(^.^)@ Ed
              1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
              with rebuilt Atomic-4

              sigpic

              Comment

              • adab1402
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2007
                • 94

                #8
                just a thought

                Have you considered just removing the complete trans and housing ?

                Comment

                • weremeer
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2009
                  • 19

                  #9
                  lock tab

                  I did not know there was a lock tab on the washer locking the nut. Thanks for the advise. That was a great help. weremeer C & C29

                  Comment

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