#1
IP: 72.203.88.206
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New Water Jacket Bolts Leak!!!
We recently installed the Moyer marine water jacket with the bolt kit. We had one bolt leaking so we added more sealer around the bolt. Now
We have 3 leaking bolts! What’s the trick to getting the Moyer marine bolt kit water tight? We followed every step in the instructions. Help. |
#2
IP: 162.245.50.230
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What kind of sealer did you use? Exactly where and/or how is the water getting by? IE is it leaking under the plate or around the bolts?
If you used "lock washers" that could be your problem. Dave Neptune |
#3
IP: 72.203.88.206
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Dave.
We used permatex from Moyer and loctite from Moyer. We installed the studs with the loctite. Let sit for a few days. They are were solid. Then put permatex on both sides of the water jacket gasket and around the studs then installed water jacket. Water is dripping from the top and bottom two bolts at the front of the engine. And one near the alternator. We used all Moyer marine included parts and followed the install instructions. John |
#4
IP: 104.174.83.118
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The studs fasten the plate mechanically which they have done successfully, the kit includes brass flat washers and not split lock washers per Dave's caution, the sealant that comes in the kit is a suitable type, the only thing left is sealant application in conjunction with the condition of the block and sideplate contact surfaces.
At this point the sideplate needs to come off, the gasket replaced (I do not like to reuse gaskets ever) and the sideplate reinstalled with a bead of sealant just as you described (both gasket surfaces and rings around the studs) but this time with a lot more sealant. Let it ooze out all around, you can clean up the excess after it's tightened down. Do not try to slobber sealant on the outside without removing the sideplate. The leaks are between the mating surfaces and that's where the sealant is lacking. I don't know if the instructions mention it but did you use the Allen wrench to hold each stud immobile as you tightened the hex nut with an open end or box wrench? The technique keeps the sealant undisturbed when tightening. My preferred sealant for this project is Permatex #2. It has never failed me. Did you get the two hole alternator bracket? It's a significant improvement over the factory one hole bracket preventing leaks over the long term.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others Last edited by ndutton; 05-29-2022 at 12:24 PM. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ndutton For This Useful Post: | ||
Dave Neptune (05-29-2022), TimBSmith (05-29-2022) |
#5
IP: 32.211.38.220
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The way to keep those bolts from leaking is: don't use them!
Rather than bolts into the block, install studs with epoxy (JB Weld is good) then use nuts to secure the side plate. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Al Schober For This Useful Post: | ||
TimBSmith (05-29-2022) |
#6
IP: 72.203.88.206
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Neil. What are you doing tomorrow 😅 Thanks for the tips. I honestly feel like I did all of this which makes it more frustrating. So there is no really bad temporary fix? Like putting permatex all around the stud with the water jacket on? This will be the third time pulling the new water jacket off. I was hopping it would be a much smoother job using the stud kit. Thanks for the tips! Also quick question. Can I use the standard choke cable or do I need the 20 footer?
John |
#7
IP: 104.174.83.118
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Sorry John, family obligations today and a very full schedule the rest of the week.It depends on where your choke handle is located but even if it's located at the forward end of the cockpit as on a tiller steered boat I'm doubtful a 7 foot cable will reach. The safe bet is start with the 20 footer and cut to the length you need.
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Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#8
IP: 162.245.50.230
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John, you must of missed something. Do get some Permatex #2, it's messy, sticky and not easy to wipe off BUT IT WORKS WELL.
Both surfaces need to be clean, dry and "FLAT" so everything sits flush with little room for the sealer. Any bumps of rust and or paint must be scraped clean and flat. Do apply enough sealer to make a mess and then "begin" to tighten. Work a tightening sequence from the inside to the outside and be very careful to tighten slowly a little bit at a time. You should go from the inside out more than a few times "SLOWLY & INCREMENTALY" increasing torque. Most important is do not overtighten as you can bend the plate causing more leaks. Coat the nuts and bolts with the #2 as well. Do check the plate for "flatness" when you remove it again. Dave Neptune |
#9
IP: 45.49.35.172
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I was thinking flatness as well
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