#26
IP: 97.93.70.7
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Changes
JTG, after looking at your photos there is something I don't like. The engine ground looks poor and not very well located. First the "grey" wire just looks to be redundant from block to block. Your connections SHOULD NOT be on the head studs. The soft electrical connections will not maintain good "torque pressure" as they will slowly yield over time. Take those connections to a starter bolt or the flywheel cover and re-torque the studs.
When grounding on the head keep in mind that the full electrical load is going through the head which is insulated by the head-gasket and relying on the stud which is fastened with sealant to get the ground to the block the ultimate goal. Dave Neptune |
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Dave Neptune For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
IP: 137.200.32.22
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Quote:
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#28
IP: 130.76.112.27
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Wow, missed that hose from the crank case to the carb. Need to find or replace that but what's the benefit of routing crank case fumes to the carb? Temp?
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#29
IP: 130.76.112.27
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Or I guess it's just a convenient way to get rid of fumes?
Also your thinking the "grey" wire can be removed? Really didn't understand it myself but that was already on there when I got it. Great catch on the engine ground to the head studs, will fix that. |
#30
IP: 100.36.65.17
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I would recommend using one of the starter bolts for the ground. The starter is far and away the largest current draw in the system, and using the starter bolt keeps that path to the starter to a minimum.
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to edwardc For This Useful Post: | ||
#32
IP: 130.76.112.30
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Wanted to send out an update and had one other question. After all the above steps and suggestions (thanks to all), finished up the final connections and put some clean gas in and started up the engine. Seems to run very smoothly but one thing I notice is that the water intake line seems remarkably small, is there a standard intake size for A4's?
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