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  #101   IP: 142.116.40.164
Old 04-22-2022, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
Thanks for the links. Being up in Great Lakes and since our host sells the brass version, I went in that direction and picked some up last evening. Installing tonight and trying again!
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Old 05-08-2022, 07:19 PM
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So I have oil pressure now. At the default setting I'm getting about 25-30psi with cold engine.

Of course the issue I now have is I cannot get it to idle under 1200 rpm.

-The dizzy with points and is set up and positioned as per the manual.
- the carb was cleaned during rebuild and the air/fuel screw is 1-1/2 -turns out from all the way in
- the idle for the throttle is as "low" as it can go and not have the engine die.
- Read the manual and searched on here for others with the issue.

Not having any success.

Is there a guide, or sequence of steps people have come up with that have experienced this.?
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  #103   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 05-08-2022, 08:28 PM
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Thanks to Thatch several years ago I learned that precise timing has a dramatic effect on the ability to maintain a low idle.

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/for...d.php?p=108158
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  #104   IP: 174.216.148.230
Old 05-08-2022, 10:22 PM
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I agree. Try dialing your timing back a bit.
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Old 05-09-2022, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardc View Post
I agree. Try dialing your timing back a bit.
Thanks for that folks
I'll work on that and will do another cleaning of the carb this evening just to make sure.
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  #106   IP: 142.116.40.164
Old 05-10-2022, 01:05 PM
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ok, recleaned the carb and did the Dizzy alignment trick as mentioned in the thread Neil linked to and started with the carb needle adjustment at 1 full turn out. Currently it is idling non-stop at about 800 RPM. It varies about the 800 mark by about 50 rpm on each side, but sounds smooth to me.

Marked the roll pin for use with the timing light and though the picture below is not when the engine is turning, this shows the approx. location of the pin in the timing light when set to 0 degrees (maybe a little more clockwise of current location). I am going to have to go back and reread all about dwell time and 17 degrees BTDC and 34 degrees that's been discussed before here as I am not sure if what is showing up at idle is good or not.

There is still some minor distributor adjustments to make at idle but I only have two hands currently.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-10-2022, 01:09 PM
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Lightbulb which one?

So, was it the carb rebuild or the timing adjustment that made it idle? When you do two things at once, you can't tell which adjustment did it. When down to fine troubleshooting, it is important to change ONE thing at a time. This is a lesson I learned from other members of this forum long ago.

edit - glad you got it idling below 1,200 in any case.
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Last edited by sastanley; 05-10-2022 at 01:14 PM.
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  #108   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 05-10-2022, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
Marked the roll pin for use with the timing light and though the picture below is not when the engine is turning, this shows the approx. location of the pin in the timing light when set to 0 degrees** (maybe a little more clockwise of current location).
**At what RPM? Idle or ~1800?
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Old 05-10-2022, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
So, was it the carb rebuild or the timing adjustment that made it idle? When you do two things at once, you can't tell which adjustment did it. When down to fine troubleshooting, it is important to change ONE thing at a time. This is a lesson I learned from other members of this forum long ago.

edit - glad you got it idling below 1,200 in any case.
Very true about too many things. the distributor I rotated a couple mm, but the carb was the main culprit - a couple very tiny flecks of something when the jet was removed and cleaned.
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Old 05-10-2022, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
**At what RPM? Idle or ~1800?
this was at 800 Idle
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Old 05-10-2022, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
this was at 800 Idle
Well then, unless I'm completely misunderstanding the position description, you're way too advanced still.
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Old 05-11-2022, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Well then, unless I'm completely misunderstanding the position description, you're way too advanced still.
Had a look an recheck last evening making sure I was at TDC.

- The Rotor was pointing away from the block as per the "factory setting"
- Rotated the plate until the tab was in-line with the rotor

This is how it was set up but the tab was more counter clockwise for the pervious running. How much of a rotation can affect the timing as I have not done this before?

I noticed last night that when the tab on the plate is aligned with the rotor, the points are just closing. Reading in the forum this morning, it was saying that the points should just be OPENING at this position.

Can someone clarify? Or what I should be checking?
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  #113   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 05-11-2022, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
- Rotated the plate until the tab was in-line with the rotor
Trying to understand to hopefully offer meaningful suggestions. Please describe in detail how you "rotated the plate."
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Old 05-12-2022, 12:10 PM
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Sorry for my not clear descriptions.

Went back last evening and after getting TDC as per Don's video and after watching another YouTube video about adjusting the points and alignment until it just sparks, I checked what I had set and adjusted.

Ran the engine and it idles well. With the strobe, the timing mark on the roll pin was sitting just to the right of indicator notch on the cover plate. Don't know the exact angle.

Idle video https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Fp1wIHKk3rg

Some Neutral transmission zone work to do.
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Old 05-12-2022, 12:49 PM
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Sorry but that doesn't address my question. However, one thing is clear to me:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
With the strobe, the timing mark on the roll pin was sitting just to the right of indicator notch on the cover plate. Don't know the exact angle.
The roll pin timing mark with a timing light set on 0° should be exactly aligned with the cover plate notch. You still need to rotate the distributor body - - - not the points plate - - - a little more clockwise.
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Old 05-12-2022, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
Sorry but that doesn't address my question. However, one thing is clear to me:
The roll pin timing mark with a timing light set on 0° should be exactly aligned with the cover plate notch. You still need to rotate the distributor body - - - not the points plate - - - a little more clockwise.
More rotation clockwise- got it.

Sorry.. turning the body is what I meant in the previous posts.
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  #117   IP: 104.174.83.118
Old 05-12-2022, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
. . . turning the body is what I meant in the previous posts.
Thanks, I was hoping so.
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Old 05-13-2022, 08:39 AM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
- - - a little more clockwise.
2-3mm more clockwise set it right.
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Old 05-13-2022, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregH View Post
2-3mm more clockwise set it right.
Have you tried adjusting the idle lower afterwards?
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Old 05-13-2022, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
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Have you tried adjusting the idle lower afterwards?
The idle dropped about 100 rpm as I did it to about 650-700.
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Old 05-13-2022, 05:52 PM
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Yep, that's the sweet spot. Mine did the same when I got the timing dialed in.
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Old 05-18-2022, 12:21 PM
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swapped engines last evening. Now to spend rest of week getting it reset on the old shims and aligned with prop shaft.

Will tear this old one down for parts along with another partial engine I have in the garage.

chuffed to reach this point.

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  #123   IP: 142.116.40.164
Old 07-28-2022, 10:07 AM
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The engine has been in for a couple of months now and still tweaking things. Running rich so slowly getting that adjusted in but otherwise running very smoothly, idling around 900. Also still having slight low oil pressure but am dialing that in.


Am having an issue with the exhaust pipe. I reused the existing as there was nothing rusted out about it. But it "appears" have a small leak between the exhaust flange and the threaded pipe (along the threads). I originally tried to get the flange off but to no success. With a CO meter this is where I am detecting the leak. Before I rebuild the system, is there a sealant I can use to get through the rest of the season up here in Canada?
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