Heat increasing, oil pressure decreasing

[Ando]

I'd really like to see a pic of this so called "filter" assembly.

Dave Neptune

Here it is. The instructions call for PVC but I just couldn’t do it and went with brass

[Ando]

Question about the new parts

I received the new MMI oil pressure regulating valve and the seat dressing tool. I dressed the seat with ease and my question is whether the metal ball that came out with the old oil pressure regulating valve goes back in when using the new valve?

[Ando]

Ok nevermind, I think. I put in the new one (without the metal ball) in the following order: pin, spring behind pin, washer on the bolt (between the nut and motor), and bolt (screw). I tightened it as far as I could. Upon first start (cold start), oil pressure read 30 then up to ~39 in the first minute or two and then slowly decreased to ~10 after about 30 min.

I stopped the engine, adjusted the valve by unscrewing it about a quarter of the way out and started again (hot start). It’s been ten minutes and the gauge is at a steady 8 or 9 the whole time.

Should I unscrew it more or screw it in more?

[jcwright]

Hello Ando.

You probably already have this, but if not, check this FAQ from Moyer:

https://moyermarine.com/nl12-1-17/

To increase the oil pressure, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

Jack.

[Ando]

Hello Ando.

You probably already have this, but if not, check this FAQ from Moyer:

https://moyermarine.com/nl12-1-17/

To increase the oil pressure, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.

Jack.

Great read! Thx, I hadn’t seen it before. Much appreciated.

[Ando]

Ok, so based on the chart listed in the link above, my oil pressure is about 10 at idle. And it does go up when I increase the throttle. My problem now is that I don’t have an rpm gauge. So what is the relative rpm at idle? Half way engaged throttle? Full throttle? How to I find rpm??? I assume I would need that info prior to needlessly adjusting the valve right…for no reason?

[jcwright]

Hello ando.

At idle, you are probably somewhere in the 600-1000 rpm range.

A guideline from Moyer and others is to run the engine at your normal cruising speed, then aim for oil pressure of 40 psi. This would be for a fully warmed up engine.

Like others on this forum, I ran the A4 for years without a tachometer. But I don't regret installing one (see Moyer's catalog). Other options include a multimeter or timing light with a built-in rpm function. These don't require any additional boat wiring and you get the added benefit of checking timing with the strobe light.

Hope this helps some.

Jack.

[Ando]

Seating Tool

I took the new regulator out and rebeveled. Why? bc I had the regulator turned clockwise as far as it would go and the reading was near 0 with the engine warm. I’m going to go get an oil pressure gauge right now from the auto parts store to verify bc this is causing too much [insert any common negative sentiment here].

In the meantime, since there’s probably no way for me to peer into the port itself to see if it is beveled correctly as per the instructions, the question is: Does the seating tool need to be rotated until the face of it is flush with the face of the port to which it slides into? I ask because I have applied pressure and turned and turned and turned (all the while cleaning the bit and reapplying lithium paste to the bit) and come to a place where it doesn’t seem to be meeting resistance and the rotator is about a quarter to one half inch away from the face of the port. Should I keep beveling until it is flush?

[JOHN COOKSON]

In the meantime, since there’s probably no way for me to peer into the port itself to see if it is beveled correctly as per the instructions, the question is: Does the seating tool need to be rotated until the face of it is flush with the face of the port to which it slides into? I ask because I have applied pressure and turned and turned and turned (all the while cleaning the bit and reapplying lithium paste to the bit) and come to a place where it doesn’t seem to be meeting resistance and the rotator is about a quarter to one half inch away from the face of the port. Should I keep beveling until it is flush?

If you don't get an answer from a forum member R\E this, call Ken at MMI.

ex TRUE GRIT

[Ando]

The turning knob thrashed my hands so bad that I’m thinking to cut it off and put the remaining shaft (that the drill bit is attached to) to a power tool and making quick work of it. That is, if it is supposed to sit flush. Monday, Monday.

I just now drilled more and more by hand and reassembled and started and it started at ~20 went up to 35 with throttle and then dropped off again to close to zero when I eased it back to idle. Still haven’t got the oil pressure gauge…taking advantage of the sun bc it’s too beautiful a day today. I’ll get to it. Yes have faith in myself

[Ando]

I spoke to Ken. The dressing tool is not used to bore/drill, it is only used to dress the port. So there is no need to have the knob all the way to the port. He said the best way to tell if it is dressed properly is to peer into the hole and, if space doesn’t permit that, to get an endoscope to peer into the port hole. I need that endoscope and still need to get the mechanical oil pressure gauge.

He then said that if the seat is dressed properly and the mechanical oil pressure gauge still reads the oil pressure as low, then I have to disassemble the motor to remove the oil pump and send it into MMI

Contemplating just getting a used short block from them and ending the pain.

[Ando]

Update

Temperature issue: I’m happy to say that the heat level is stable.

Oil pressure issue: i ordered the oil pressure port dressing tool and used it. After thrashing my hand using the tool (bc I was using it wrong) and with no change to the oil pressure level, I called Ken and he told me that I needed to get a visual inside the oil pressure regulating port, an impossibility due to the engine location. So after researching a ton, I bought a bore scope and ordered the mechanical oil pressure gauge from our host. I got a visual on the port and it looks clean to me (see pic below). What do you all think?

[Ando]

Further update

Mechanical OP gauge installed & OP regulating valve tightened to the seat

Results:

1. At start, the mechanical gauge roars above 20 and drops to 15, then around 10;

2. Idle, it’s at 10;

3. Under load and at idle, it drops to ~5; and

4. Under load and with a bit more throttle, it goes up to 10.

Any ideas what more I can do without having to disassemble the engine to remove the oil distribution mechanism and send it in to MMI for testing and/or rebuild/replace?

Should I just go with a short block?

Is there any way I can take her out safely for one or two short sailing days
I haven’t taken her out all summer

[Ando]

Bump bump bump

[Ando]

20-50 oil maybe

A race car mechanic seemed to think that switching from straight 30w oil to 20-50 (with a quart of Lucas) may help provide more oil pressure. What’s the forum’s take on this?