#1
IP: 66.126.90.242
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Fresh Water Cooling Install
I've been meaning to post these pics for some time now. The pics show my custom install of a fresh water cooling system on my A4 with a V drive. It's on a C&C 33'. Because of clearance issues at the flywheel, I had to install the Indigo FWC kit that drives the raw water pump off of the assessory drive. The hardest part of this conversion from raw to fresh water cooling was figuring out the best place for the heat exchanger and routing of all hoses. Certainly makes the engine compartment more crowded, but it has made my operating temp much more stable on this engine that was cooled with raw water for the first 33 years of its life. You can also see my new exhaust installation and the placement of the anti-siphon valve - an add on as my old cooling system arrangement did not have an anti-siphon valve.
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#2
IP: 141.248.3.2
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Fwc
Thanks for the pics Kurt.
Do you have a raw water strainer? I also installed the same system in my Ranger 33 two years ago. I didn't install a raw water strainer and I have to back flush the heat exchanger at least twice a year with a high pressure hose to get the junk out. I also need to change the zinc often so I recommend watching that. Good job! Steve Barbara J Oceanside Ca |
#3
IP: 66.126.90.242
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I actually don't have a raw water strainer - should probably get one of those! For the time being, flushing out that heat exchanger will be a lot easier than doing pressure flushes of my block - which I used to have to do every 6 months when it was raw water cooled. Thanks for the zinc advice - I'll check that out. I know my bottom cleaners have to replace shaft zincs every 3 months maximum so I'll bet the heat exchanger zinc will suffer from the "hot" marina I'm at as well.
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#4
IP: 74.103.39.3
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You might try a galvanic isolator. They've helped my neighbor's boat alot. I just installed one after hearing his report. Keeps the zincs around a bit longer...
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#5
IP: 142.68.240.175
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Nice work. I see the magic marker guides on the bulkhead -- mine has similar marks too! Quite the juggling act to figure out where to put everything.
Careful removing the zinc -- I cracked the thread base where the hex is welded to the relatively thin metal of the heat exchanger body, even though I tried to be careful to apply a second stabilizing wrench on that hex base while backing out the zinc. Had to remove the HE to take it to a radiator shop for repair.
__________________
1974 C&C 27 |
#6
IP: 70.240.146.61
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Fresh Water Cooling vs. Raw Water
Good Morning:
Being new to the A4 I have questions. In many posts I see reference to "Fresh Water" and "Raw Water" for cooling. What is the difference? I draw water in from the lake so while not fresh it sure isn't salt water either. Thanks Pat |
#7
IP: 38.102.24.128
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msauntry,
Do you have any information on the galvanic isolator that you could share; like where/how is it connected, what does it isolate, etc, etc? Don |
#8
IP: 76.7.116.245
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Pat A "raw water" cooled engine draws in water, whatever the boat is sitting in, salt or fresh and runs it thru the engine and then out the exhaust. A "fresh water" cooled engine re-circulates a fresh water /antifreeze mix thru the engine and a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger is cooled by separate “raw water” system. Hope that makes sense. Dan S/V Marian Claire
Last edited by Marian Claire; 11-25-2009 at 11:55 AM. |
#9
IP: 66.126.90.242
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I echo Don's question about the galvanic isolator. My diver told me to get one as my shaft zincs are burning too quickly. I believe he said that the isolator is connected to the shore power outlet and operates whenever you are "plugged in" to the dock. Does anyone else have additional information as to how these things are connected. This information could help save all of us money on zinc replacement!
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#11
IP: 142.68.240.175
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Nigel Calder's book has a good discussion on galvanic isolators and isolation transformers.
__________________
1974 C&C 27 |
#12
IP: 64.231.125.40
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Here is a pic of the one I installed this spring in my 67 C&C Corvette. It was very easy to install and the operating principle is straightforward. We don't have a lot of problems with galvanic corrosion in fresh water but I think the protection is worth having.
Besides, one day I may decide to become a salt-water sailor! PS - I got mine from "The Charger Guy" on E-bay - also got a 3-bank battery charger which is mounted just to the left/backside of the cockpit opening. Good price and both are working with no problems. Also, for it to satisfy ABYC standards I need to hook up a remote moniter which plugs in on the right side just below the gold coloured terminal lug. Last edited by 67c&ccorv; 11-25-2009 at 07:45 PM. |
#13
IP: 97.120.107.210
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Keel Cooler
Does anyone have any information about or experience with a Keel Cooler setup?
Thanx, Greg |
#14
IP: 74.103.39.3
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Google "yandina isolator" and you'll see the one I ordered. Much less expensive than the WM offerings. I don't really care about the remote monitor feature, so call me non-ABYC compliant...
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#15
IP: 71.246.212.45
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Quote:
See http://www.chessie.com/boat/projects...lvanicIsolator
__________________
@(^.^)@ Ed 1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita" with rebuilt Atomic-4 |
#16
IP: 71.48.176.175
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I've recently adopted an older A4-equipped boat that appears to have been retrofitted with fresh water cooling. (The engine cover has been modified to provide extra clearance.) I can't seem to identify the source of the FWC components though. Does this look familiar to anyone?
So, yesterday I stopped at the boat on the way to a job and advanced the resurrection project a bit. Drained 10 gallons of five-year-old fuel from the tank, installed new ignition components (the plugs and wires I got at the auto parts store were the wrong ones ) and started cleaning up some of the electrical. While flailing around in the back of the quarterberth, trying to reach the fuel line, I heard the cheerful little "clink"of something metallic falling into the bilge. Turned around to find that the back end cap of the heat exchanger had fallen off! And it was bone dry in there. It appears that the PO, the few times that he actually started the motor, may have been running it dry. Guess I won't be surprised if one or both of the water pumps are toast. So now I'm even more curious about the source of this part, and possible replacements. I guess I'll bring it home next time I'm there, pound the end cap back in and try to solder it in place. I think I'd also like to mount it (or its replacement) elsewhere in the engine compartment, so that the cover can return to its original location, and not stick up in the middle of the quarterberth. Any reason why slightly longer hose runs would be a problem? |
#17
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Howdy an' welcome!
I'm sure a radiator shop can fix that thing back together if you can't. I moved my heat ex away from the original position to make it easier to work on the carburator. It has worked fine. I see no problem with a bit longer run as long as you pay attention to not getting high spots, bubbles or introducing elevation problems. So sweet of you to adopt. So many neglected motors and so little time. Cheers, Russ P. S. start your own thread—be a trailblazer
__________________
Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#18
IP: 24.152.131.220
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Hmmm, very interesting that your picture popped up at about the same time as a 5 year old thread. Who'd have thunk it?
your engine: ..................................and Miss September 2006:
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#19
IP: 75.192.84.223
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Do the similarities in the two pictures imply that the FWC systems were almost certainly stock as built by Universal?
Bill |
#20
IP: 24.152.131.220
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I'd say so or perhaps a distributor add-on. Boatswain's Locker in Costa Mesa, CA would regularly reconfigure A-4's to meet their customers' needs like adding reduction gears and V-drives. I never saw a FWC system on an A-4 back then but it's entirely conceivable. The two installations pictured are virtually identical as if done by the same hands.
Certainly not home grown I think.
__________________
Neil 1977 Catalina 30 San Pedro, California prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22 Had my hands in a few others |
#21
IP: 98.237.173.224
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FWC Heat Exch.
Quote:
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#22
IP: 98.237.173.224
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Heat exchanger
Quote:
in Seattle years ago. Not available... Chris |
#23
IP: 75.175.114.198
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I have the same heat exchanger on my engine. The big draw back is that it makes it difficult to work on the carb. I have been thinking of moving mine like Russ has away from the manifold to make things easier.
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#24
IP: 216.115.121.240
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Here's a couple of shots as the beast is now.
The heat ex is the vertical cylinder behind the battery. The pressure cap is out of the photo but is easily reached from an opening by the quarter berth. Both it and the seawater strainer can be checked and serviced from this hatch. I lie on the quarter berth to check oil, water, shaft log, water pump, and ignition. This is often done just before I succumb to another nap. How about that wiring though? Nice Huh? It's actually much safer now that I have put all circuits back on the main switch and put fuses in all the circuts. But let's not go there this time. Russ
__________________
Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1 "Since when is napping doing nothing?" |
#25
IP: 142.68.39.36
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Nice Russ! I don't think I've seen this great "after" shot. I envy the room you have around that engine.
__________________
1974 C&C 27 |
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