Advice on water in oil

[Tieso]

Greetings Afourians! First post here, of what I hope will be many, many. And this one is gonna be a long one.

Folks, I need some advice. I'm just in the process of buying an Ericson 29 with some significant motor problems. The current owner is a great guy who's moving up, and he cut me a deal on the boat based on the need to pull and overhaul the engine. It's a raw water cooled, late 1970s A4. Pretty rusty outside, bolts looking pretty frozen, salt collecting around the water jacket plate on the side. There's also water in the oil - milkshake looking before and after an oil change.

That said, though, the motor runs pretty well - fired right up a few weeks ago and doesn't seem to be missing. I haven't had the chance to compression test it, and it's a couple of hundred miles away, so I can't right now. But I'm kinda casually assuming that if the water was leaking down through the combustion chambers she'd be running a lot rougher than she is, so I'm assuming (again, just casually) that the head gasket and exhaust are not the sources of water in the crankcase. So I'm assuming that there's a crack in the jacket someplace.

Just because of the general appearance of the motor, and the fact that she's been salt water cooled for 35 years, and because I like working on motors, I planned to rebuild in the off season. But now that there's water in the oil I need to make some choices soonish. I need to move the boat from NYC up the hudson to the erie canal, and across to Lake Ontario. I don't want to shell out for moving the boat, and I really want to take the cruise up river. So here's where I'm asking advice.

First, I know it sounds crazy, but how long might a motor with a crack continue to run? Minutes? Hours? Days? I have an outboard I can hang off the back to push her along in a pinch, but is there any serious chance that the motor might actually make it up to Oswego?

Second, if not, I'll probably buy a remanufactured block and put it in before taking off. Or, I might bring it along with me and do the swap wherever the old motor bites the dust. There's a Moyers Manual on the boat, but I'd like to kinda get my brain around what's necessary to R&R the motor. Is there a step by step that you all could point me to to start studying up on it?

And finally, probably a dumb question, but can I pull the motor out without hauling the boat out of the water? I'd be extremely bummed if I sank her at a dock someplace.

Thanks in advance. I await wisdom.

Chris

[Tieso]

OK, found the steps for removal:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1133

Doesn't look like too difficult a job (famous last words). I like the idea of using the halyard and a comealong, and the mainsheet for an outhaul.

Still hoping for speculation on how long the motor might survive with crack. And any thoughts on how I might nurse it along in that condition. What will kill it? Water in the combustion chambers? lubrication breakdown?

Chris

[Dave Neptune]

Tieso, get the water out. It probably encraoched whil cranking. You can still see the effects of water after 2 ~ 3 changes depending on how much you can drain the crankcase. There will be some water left and it doesn't take much to turn the oil milky.
My engine is 42 years old and salt water cooled, it is original except for an intake valve I replaced 26 years ago when I thought mine was going to need a rebuild or replacement. It's still ticking strong.
If your compression is OK after the engine warms up with clean oil save your money and invest in my favorite charity ~ "Saving the Ales" from an extended shelf life.

Dave Neptune

[hanleyclifford]

I would not operate on the assumption there is a breach in the cooling passages until a pressure test confirmed it. The test is not difficult. There are other sources of water intrusion. Don't forget that little plug between oil chamber and block (on some engines).