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  #1   IP: 130.76.112.27
Old 12-12-2020, 02:45 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Distributor Questions

I have an early model A4 with an Auto-Lite distributor (see pics). Needs a good teardown which leads to my question: are the parts for the Pertonix distributor in the on-line catalog compatible with Auto-Lite? Also in the underside of the Distributor cap there is a "2" by one of the points (see pic), assume that is for Wire #2 going to cylinder #2? Last question, how do I remove the distributor drive gear at the bottom of the rotor, do you tap the pin out with something? Thx!

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  #2   IP: 138.207.177.95
Old 12-12-2020, 05:20 PM
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joe_db joe_db is online now
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https://moyermarine.com/product-cate...emearlymodels/
All kinds of parts including Pertronix
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  #3   IP: 24.15.212.17
Old 12-13-2020, 07:54 PM
Sam Sam is offline
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I have a 1966 A4 for 40 + years with a "Prestolite" brand distributor as well as a couple of old spares. From your picture it looks identical to your "Auto lite" even down to the labeling and i believe I read somewhere that they are/were the same firm through aquisition etc [Std cap AL-25 or Echlin Al91] In any event use a very small " punch" on the pin - not rocket science. I would just note to be careful with this old distributor itself since replacement components are not in stock.

As far as the molded "2" in the cap and the #2 wire admittedly I never paid attention to it. On early model A4's at TDC on #1 cylinder the rotor should point aft to provide clearance for the little oil cap on the side. Rest follow the 1243 sequence. [Note on late model A4's you will read that the the rotor points starboard at TDC]
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  #4   IP: 99.48.145.167
Old 12-14-2020, 11:16 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Thx Sam, i tapped the pin out easy enough and disassembled the remainder of the distributor keeping care not to damage any of the parts as you say. I am curious about what the purpose of the small springs and the subassembly below the plate which holds the points. Any idea what that does?
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  #5   IP: 162.219.70.239
Old 12-15-2020, 06:07 AM
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That is a mechanical advance. As the rpm goes up, the springs have to stretch in order to pull the weights around in a circle. This allows the timing to change as the rpm increases.

This mechanism needs to be well lubricated in order for the engine to produce good power at higher rpm.

Be well,

Peter
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  #6   IP: 99.48.145.167
Old 12-15-2020, 10:16 AM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Thx Peter! I can see how that works. One of the arms holding a spring was developing a slight fatigue crack so I dapped a very small amount of JB Weld on it. So I'll be a dab on the other arm as well to keep the balance.
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  #7   IP: 47.142.133.234
Old 12-15-2020, 02:52 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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It is easy to reassemble the advance backwards. DAMHIK
When you are done the rotor should move a few degrees clockwise (advance) and stop. When you let go of the rotor the springs should rotate the rotor back those few degrees.

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #8   IP: 24.15.212.17
Old 12-15-2020, 04:29 PM
Sam Sam is offline
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Also, very good chance you would benefit from a couple of new distributor springs from Moyer.
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  #9   IP: 130.76.186.17
Old 12-15-2020, 09:48 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Really appreciate this guys! Here's a pic of when I first opened up the distributor cap with the rotor still on the engine. Note the little oil cap on the distributor body is all the way over toward the engine block (right next to the water intake line) whereas when I look at Don's YouTube video on Ignition timing it shows the alignment of the oil cap almost directly away from the block (for the early models). Is there a correct position or does it matter and it really only matters where you position the tip of the rotor as I guess in the end you just want the tip of the rotor to start out at the #1 spark plug post? Hope this question makes sense!Name:  DistrTop.jpg
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  #10   IP: 47.142.133.234
Old 12-16-2020, 12:07 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG1160 View Post
Is there a correct position or does it matter and it really only matters where you position the tip of the rotor as I guess in the end you just want the tip of the rotor to start out at the #1 spark plug.
There is a stock position (what you have termed correct position) - how the distributor was oriented when the engine left the factory.
What you said is true. The distributor can be oriented any number of degrees off the stock position as long as the spark arrives to cylinder #1 when it is at TDC compression. Before I mess with the distributor I always put #1 at TDC compression so I have a reference if I need it.

ex TRUE GRIT
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  #11   IP: 99.48.145.167
Old 12-16-2020, 11:33 AM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Thx John! Do you know what that factory stock position is (oil tube pointed toward the block or away from it)? And do you know if that #2 insignia inside of the distr cap is for the #2 wire? Seems pretty obvious it is but wanted to check.
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  #12   IP: 155.186.122.195
Old 12-16-2020, 12:18 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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The only marks determining placement of plug wires I have ever seen on a cap was the #1 designate for the "FACTORY ASSEMBLY". The "2" on the inside is just a casting number of some sort.

The position of the number one on reassembly depends on which gear teeth you drop the distributor in on. Factory positions are fine but not necessary at all!!! The distributor does not care as TDC (compression stroke) for #1 piston & plug wire is all you need. The rest of the wires just go in order from there.

Dave Neptune

Last edited by Dave Neptune; 12-16-2020 at 12:20 PM. Reason: wording
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  #13   IP: 24.15.212.17
Old 12-16-2020, 05:14 PM
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All of what you read above from these experienced folks is all very true. When I was a newbe with this engine 4 decades ago I had the same problem - oil cap hitting the block, couldn't time right without shorting out. Maybe to simplify - get to TDC, remove the distributor, rotate gear a bit so points are about to open and reinstall so that the oil cap is more aft away from the block an inch or so - The rotor tip should be pointing about aft and you now have room to rotate for approximate timing. [from the pics you need some lubrication on the flyweights etc]
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  #14   IP: 99.48.145.167
Old 12-16-2020, 10:57 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Dave and Sam, thank you very much for your insights. Any recommended lubrication for the flyweights and the rotor shaft itself before I re-install?
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Old 12-17-2020, 02:52 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Any light machine oil, such as 3 in 1, works fine.

ex TRUE GRIT
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Old 12-17-2020, 03:28 PM
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What John says and I tend to squirt a little new motor oil down into the weights when I do an oil change. Note: I think once i added an extra squirt from my oil can and the oil later spun up into cap contacts and stalled the engine exactly at the wrong time - looked a little more burnt than normal. I bought a used spare once and it came with a thin layer of lithium grease on all the internal components. This also seems like a good way to go. Also, periodicaly add oil to oil fitting cap on the side and a few drops to the felt at the shaft top [under the rotor] if you have one.
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Old 12-17-2020, 07:36 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Thx again everyone, prob won’t be reinstalling until a warm day in Mar or Apr but will follow the steps discussed above:
1 Position to TDC
2 install distributor assembly so that the oil tube or condenser is not contacting the block or the oil fill cap
3 set the rotor tip so that it’s positioned pointing aft
4 install distributor cap with #1 wire plug above the rotor tip and then follow the rest of the standard sequence for the wires
5 start engine and tweak distr housing alignment for optimal rpm

Sound good?
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  #18   IP: 98.122.236.75
Old 12-17-2020, 08:18 PM
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Marian Claire Marian Claire is offline
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I may be misunderstanding your list but. The rotor snaps in in only one place. This could be aft, forward etc when you drop the distributor in place. It really does not make any difference as long as it lines up with one of the contacts in the cap. The cap only snaps in to line up with the clips. Remember to loosen the horizontal screw and the hold down screw to adjust the distributor. Then place # 1 wire there.
You can turn the distributor shaft to make the rotor face aft but it is not critical.


Dan
S/V Marian Claire
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  #19   IP: 130.76.112.25
Old 12-17-2020, 10:52 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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Thx Dan, I think I understand. Ya the rotor has to fit into it's slot and that the distributor cap must align to the clips. What's most critical is the alignment of the rotor tip to one of the contacts in the cap which you then plug the #1 wire into (assuming you have it set at TDC).
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Old 03-07-2021, 09:34 PM
JTG1160 JTG1160 is offline
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And the results are . . .

Got down to the boat this weekend and reinstalled the distributor, following everyone's guidance. Result was a quick start-up and with minor adjustments for RPM she's running like a top. Amazing that a 60 year old engine still runs so well. Really want to thank everyone for their help, don't know what I would do without this forum!!

John
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  #21   IP: 98.155.50.7
Old 03-08-2021, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTG1160 View Post
... Really want to thank everyone for their help, don't know what I would do without this forum!!

John
... perhaps learning to like the smell of diesel?

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